Mr Fishums

I never said copper or silver were bad though. Maybe instead of saying "Platnium just means it's made of a metal that conducts electricity better." I should have said "Platnium just means it's made of a metal that conducts electricity better, than standard metal tips. Though silver and copper tipped plugs are your best options " Sorry for my useless advice.

Heck yah! Sounds great, count me in!

Bosch platniums are what I run. I'll never touch anything else! That's on an EA-81, an Air Cooled VW, and a SBC. Running platniums plugs of any kind will not hurt your engine. Platnium just means it's made of a metal that conducts electricity better. This will give you a cleaner more consistant spark to ignite your fuel with. It's like having speaker cables that have gold plated tips, gold conducts extremely well so they use it at contact points to transfer full clean power to your speakers. With that said it makes your ignition system more effective and will give the gas you put into the cyclendars more potential of being fully burned. Not all platnium plugs are created equal, some brands are extemely effective and made with better platnium metals. I myself have had the best luck with bosch, my brother on the other hand runs denso's. As for the PVC vavle, that stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. When your motor runs, excess fuel that is not fully burnt along with some burnt waste slips past the piston rings into your crank case. The PCV vavle vents this toxic gas back into your intake to be reburnt and possibly used again. Venting your crank case increases your oil life, without a vent you will soon build up a brown sludge in your motor. If you are searching for power you will soon find that making an extra vent for your crank case that is seprate from your intake is a good idea (This would replace the PCV vavle alltogether). Beacause putting this used less effective gas back into your intake only prohibits overall your power (aka cleaner fuel). Ways to get around wasting fuel. 1) Platnium plugs the high conductive material allows for a hotter cleaner spark that ignites your fuel for greater potential. (Gap them as suggested by car manufacture) 2) A higher rated coil than OEM, this makes a hotter spark that burns fuel more effeciently. Do not go to high if you run points though this can burn them up. 3) Larger less resistive spark plug wires, if they have lower resistance you will get less of a power drop between the distributor and the plugs, alike the others this will help burn you fuel more effectively. 4) a multiple spark ignition system, some of these run multiple sparks through 22 degrees of crank rotation... This is more likely to fully ignite your fuel. 5) Use a seperate air filter for you crank case breather, this stops your used waste from the crank case being recycled in your engine, it will also lower tempatures in the catalytic converter, seeing as their is less waist to be burnt up in it. Also remember this when buying plugs, top performance isn't always the best thing. If you know anything about electricity you will understand that it will only jump the smallest gap it can. ie: stike the tallest object with best conductivity (lightning rods, telephone pole, flag poles, etc) So it should be easy to understand that having multiple tipped spark plugs is useless because it will only jump the gap to the tip that conducts the best. There is the slight exception that if you are running excessive and I mean excessive ammounts of high end coil power to your plugs that you can spark both of them. These are just some tips and things I know and have had luck with. Hope they help. Peace, Fishums

That is so cool

Common a justy's curb weight practically doubles when you get into it :-p

Oh common it's worth a try. Those damn polaris 4x4 four wheelers with automatic trannies can't way that much less than a justy. Hahhaha those things are mammoth!

Damn, that's once nice Justy! It reminds me of my first hatchback Lets see some pics of that thing in action! Feild cars are the greatest cars ever!

lol, what a mess. If it's the orginal owner that got it back, good for him. If he has his orginal title, I don't think you could say he stole it :cool: Just watch out beacuse if it is, someones going down for grand theft auto. That does not look good on the perminate record. Get yourself a lawyer, definately. You should at least be able to get your money back from someone. That situation has to suck, I'm sorry to hear you are in it man. Just imagine you are the orginal owner trying to find your subaru, then you spot it at a dealership! Damn if it were me all hell would break loose! Remember don't kind of take anything! Who was your friend to sell some one elses subaru in the first place? There are police impound yards for stolen or found vehicles, not I found it sales :-p

You will definately want to put some upgraded parts int hat VW tranny with 300+ HP if you think your going to get that high. There are some upgrades for that transmission to make it do just that on the CB performance website. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1208 The differential is normally the first thing to give around 275 HP, I know I've done it with a VW air cooled engine. There are also some turn key, VW engines on there that just bolt in. They output some serious horsepower. The turbo one puts out 315HP! Way more than enough to make an 1800lb bug go sidesways down the drag stip Strip out your interior and spare tire, and get in the 10's range. http://www.cbperformance.com/turbostreetengine.asp Hope this helps! don't wait till your tranny explodes the differential either! I ruined my case that way

I've got to get me one of those.... anyone find a purty way to get one on an EA-81 vehicle and make it look near stock? inside and out :cool:

wow, nice That's mighty kind of you, Thank you

Jons always got the sweet hook ups :cool: PEace, Fishums I'd feel bad cutting up another perfectly good subaru though, it would have to be a real bucket for me to steal the power plant from it.

Thanks to those that PM'd me there :cool: with the parts intel. From the sounds of it, I am pretty sure I know exactly what I am getting my hands into, and ready for some fun. If anyone else other than me and the guy above, me there is bidding on this engine. Good luck and may the best man win I'll give you all a good tug for it. Peace, Fishums

Thanks Ross, That helps alot, If anyone is curious yes that is the motor from EBay. I just don't want to bid to high if I know I can't get all of the parts Turbos are just so fun to play with though! Any one happen to be selling a car with an EA81T in it btw?

You could go custom, and modify the intakes for a set of webers made for the VW. This is something I am curretly planning on doing, after I find a more aggresive cams, larger vavles, and deck the heads off course. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=500 If your not planning on doing any work to the heads, you most likely won't need that much fuel in the first place. It would only be used during the highest of your RPM's. Having your heads pull from a common intake (single carb) and meeting in a Y pipe creates an even suction flow in your motor, and actually helps scavenge exhaust from the opposite cyclendar in the fire order. This also pulls air into your carb more evenly. What does that mean, more torque in lower RPMS! If you haven't already tried a single weber with a free flow air element, I would suggest that. Also an electronic igntion system that fires multiple sparks and has a longer crank duration. MSD offers an off road option that is reasonably priced, and apoxy filled for the harsh environments. Hope this helps, Fishums

<Stares down from a high branch like a vulture> Those wouldn't happen to be nice tan bucket seats in that wagon would they? Try a Weber carb on that EA-81 if you haven't yet. You will get a modeset power gain. Also if you get a higher end ignition your low RPM torque will surpass the EA-82. That EA-81 is a great engine to learn basic mechanics on, it's such a clean and simple rugged design for a watercooler. Also if they don't check emissions in your area, that cat converter on there steals some power! and if your really looking to get every ounce out, and have AC but don't use it. I would suggest removing it. If you take that EA-81 block into a machine shop and have them deck the heads 15 hudredths of and inch you can reliably gain around 10 horse power by upping your compression ratio. You can also have those heads ported. I've heard rumors that delta cams, can grind you a better cam. Though I have had no luck getting one myself yet. If your really RICH and have bags of money, you can go to RAM engines, they make a 140 horse power/140lb torque dual port MPFI version of the EA-81. It's a bolt in that will give you more power than an EA-82 turbo PEace, Fishums

just curious lets say I have this motor: and I would like to put it into my 1984 GL hatch, What would I need other than the custom exhaust? And the cool Turbo sticker under my doors! The only items I would have are the stock 1984 GL hatch back equipment and the ones in that image. What pieces do I need to complete the puzzle And who's got them and willing to part with them for bags of money? (prefferibly small and affordable sized ones) :-p PEace, Fishums

Just be glad it wasn't an automatic, if you want to talk worst smelling carfluid when burnt :-p I can handle any of the other ones, but automatic fluid makes me want to hurl.

There is no model that comes close to a GL hatch back now a days! 1. The 2 door options, sports cars with 4 doors? not in my books... oh ok I let the STI slip by... but they better fix it 2. Price, I can get 10 hatchback for the price of a mildy used WRX 3. Inssurance, $245 every six months including glass coverage 4. Gas mileage, 39 mpg on my old hatch. I hear justy's do better than that too! 5. Emissions, They aren't as strict with them. Around here 1995+ has to be near mint, and read as stock on the PC scan. 6. Maintain, There's fewer things to break! 8. EA-81 timing chains, airplane approved durability 9. The rugged square metal look of a real punk mobile! 10. Doesn't sound like a bumble bee in a tin can when you free flow it, in fact idles like a harley when you hop up the cam 11. Hatch has a shorter wheel base than any of the EJ platforms 12. You can always drop an EJ into an EA 13. Aftermarket lift kits, There are plenty of high quality vendors with all you lifting dreams. 14. If you blow your engine you can find a used one for under $500 or a rebuilt for not to much more. 15. Swaping Engines/Tranys is easy and with some buds and a lift can be done under an hour easily. 16. Parts are dirt cheap! 17. No electronic limiters and controllers 18. NO ABS, this has been proven to stop a car in fewer feet and have less control than standard breaking when using professional drivers for comparisson. 19. Unique, everyone and their grandma sports an EJ. 20. Curb Weight, need I say more? 21. Speeding tickets they aren't as flashy and tend to be let off more, or not even noticed. Not to mention the obvious fact they are harder to speed with. 22. High/Low range, with 5 spd. 23. LSD rear end 24. Not Bubbly and plastic like everything else that is on the road today. 25. No airbags, I personal hate these things one nearly TKO'd me when I was off roading with my friend in his new Chevy, and he didn't even hit anything hard. Crossed over 1 logg and it went off. Left Nasty marks on me too! 26. Your driving a peice of rally car history lol, my thoughts at least Fishums

Hows this thing coming along btw? I've been curious to see how you made out with it.

hahaha my girlfriend is in search of one of those cars! I told her to finish her honda M600 first, or the VW pop top BUS. Though she tells me the same thing about my DuneBuggy..... I don't really care if it's every road worthy though If you can snag that car go for it man, it's going to be worth something someday. I'd keep it bone stock in a barn or something like you said, just lay a tarp underneth it, and restore it when you can. It might even be worth more un restored, to someone that wants to restore it(aka my girlfriend) Watch out for using barns to store things, they tend to eat things alive if they have ever had livestock in them. So defeinately throw down the tarp under it! Something to do with the cow piss damn rust making cows.

yeah those are non exsistent on the east coast, sell it to subie! (75subie) So we can add to the east coast collection

I'd go with the weber, they are great carbs. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/SUBARU.htm Peace, Fishums

Wow, just plan WOW. That is absolute horse **** man, I would have layed some smack down if they did something like that to my car. Redlined with Brakes on in gear? Could smoke Clutch, Brakes, Vavles, Transmission, CV's, and loads of things in the engine..... that's like putting 30K miles and a few years of wear on your subaru in 5 minutes. To bad the dyno didn't catch and throw the car through a wall or something, seeing as their was no rear E brake on. Then make them pay for a new subaru :-p When the manager says "oh I don't see what's wrong there" ask to take his car for a ride and do the same thing. You'll have to hold his brake pedal down manually seeing as he doesn't understand the concept of front ebrake he most likely doesn't own one. Harsh man harsh

Nice times, what year bug you have? I've 74 Sunbug low rider. Did you use the kennedy adaptor? Where did you put your radiator? CB performance has some tranny upgrades that make the stock bettle tranny capable of handeling 275 + hp, run all the shots you would like to the super market and back with that :-p http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1208