2.5GL

Good things to know, I'm gonna keep my eyes out for those coming through, might even get a chance to swap some parts out.... But I won't hold my breath. Lewis

Really? where did you get a pair of Subaru bearings and seals for around $100.00? Wholesale puts that price near $175.00, on a good day, employee cost stands at over $140.00....Unless, that is, my dealer contact got it wrong... if that's the case, "Thanks, Lithia" Lewis

"How many POS EJ25's does it take to build one good one?" About six, if you and carma are on the outs... Lewis

The timeline stands for now, (12-14:00 friday) details to follow.... Thinking Oregon City Home Depot to meet/start from? Any other ideas??? Lewis

I'd look into aftermarket pads if there wasn't such a problem with noise. I realize I could spend the bucks and get decent ones, but I get mine at (employee) cost from a dealership we use where I work, or if times are tight, used pads work too. Besides, I changed my first set at 98,000 front/130,000 rear so I don't burn through 'em too quick. I am going for Subaru brakes (caliper/rotor) due to the fact that I likely won't be paying for them when we round up a parts car with the right stuff...:-p Lewis

Malfunction Indicator Lamp, otherwise known as a CEL, or Check Engine Light. Lewis

I have a 98 Imp RS, and wondering which of the newer/newest models have the largest brake rotor/caliper for upgrading my brakes. I have not had an opportunity to put my hands on a Tribeca or STi as of yet, but I know that the '03 O/B has a rotor about 1 inch larger than my stock ones. I already swapped the rears for a set of '93 Legacy turbo rotors & calipers. The only advantage at this point is the venting, as the diameter is identical. "Why?" you ask? Because I had them sitting around and it only took 30 minutes... Thanks, Lewis

Just looking to see if anyone has set a time on Friday to head up, and a place to leave from... near Portland. If not, any takers on... Leaving the Oregon City/Clackamas area on I-205 between 12:00-14:00 on Friday afternoon? I currently have 3 people going from my work, and we're "planning" to leave sometime in that window. I had planned on using Motorola FRS radios to communicate through the trip as well. Any y'all done this before? advice taken w/o insult. :-\ Any thoughts on Jhonny Law's feelings towards a large group of cars (should we get many more) going the same speed, common destination, ect? Thanks, Lewis

I believe that anything from say, a 92-94 should work, of the same trans, and body. But you should check for sure as I may be off a bit, sooo many parts, and different cars they can fit, I am starting to forget some of the older stuff... Lewis.

or breed

I would have to say I like my '84 GL 4x HB, because some days I feel like driving it over the '98 RS... Strange, I know.

98 RS--Proxes 4 205/55/16 not too bad, but way better than Potenzas... 84 GL 4x HB-- I have run Jupiter, Toyo 800 Ultra, and Toyo spectrum in the 185/70/13 size, all pretty decent, highest milage was Toyo 800 Ultra.

The engine will run with the belt off a tooth or two, badly. AND not crash the valves. more than two teeth and you would be a little less lucky, and would be very difficult to run not to mention drive. If it continues to hunt for an idle speed let it run with the AC on for 5-10 minutes then turn off AC and go for another 10. Forgot:D ...clear the memory first or disconnect battery (I'm guessing...1 hour? I have an ODB II meter, so can't say how long.) If it doesn't settle down, might want to go after your IAC (idle air control) for idling prob. of air flow meter for off idle response.

Tap into your tranny cooler line (with a "T") and check for pressure with a gauge, or hook up to pump pressure port on side of pump housing (between diff and AT cases). Might want to check a book for which of the three or four screws is the one you need. if no pressure from either one...bad pump, or something before it, Torque conv. shaft, flex plate, ect.

#2. prior to removing the hoses spray a WD-40 type spray on the connections, and use fuel line pliers (one black, one silver handle) designed to "spread" hose from filter. A small pick or screwdriver used under the edge of the hose helps get the lube under the hose. I got mine from snap-on but they were of the generic sort, should be able to buy from a decent tool store. $4-6

Just drain and refill, save yourself the time. Unless, of course, internal damage has occured. If fluid smells burnt, might be worth a check to see if something is going wrong before it blows.

has anybody put in the time to see if 00-04 O/B's (or perhaps early turbo?)have bigger brakes than a RS? I have a 93 Leg 4dr 4EAT available for the parts. only plus i have noted so far is the vented rear discs on the turbo, but only 10.5" dia. anybody that knows or has measurements, it would be great to get some heads-up, maybe save some time taking apart a bunch of cars to check... I am basically aming to upgrade or refit with other subaru parts to stay with a (realtively) stock theme.

It may not be too difficult to pull a cover and check to see if the print is still on the belt. If no print/label on the belt it might be a good idea to change it, but you never know, could be new with a readable label on it too... just don't let 'er break, that'll piss ya off even more than blowing $500.00.

I replaced my first set of front pads (5% remaining) on my 98 RS at 98,000 miles and the rears at 130,000 and they were at 20% remaining. sounds kinda odd to me. the loaner thing: they only have to provide some sort of transportation to you, it could have been a shuttle ride home or a rented pontiac or something

most of the phase 1 2.5 engines have issues. most i have heard of happen between 80 and 140 k miles. the phase 2 2.5 has an extended warranty when the "cooling system conditioner" (a.k.a. "stop leak") recall is performed and maintained at a 30k interval from that point, head gaskets will be under warranty up to 100k. never mind that they still leak again later and/or plug up (stop leak) the radiator so you over heat and blow an engine!

looks like your bearing has spun a bit, and come out towards the front of the motor pushing your seal out and preventing your new ones from going in. Wanna try something for fun??? try to tap the bearing back in, gently, as they are brittle when struck on the side. what do you have to loose? a few minutes messing with it and slap the belt on and start 'er up, or R&R the engine?

is the car smoking? possible cracked head... take off exhaust at engine when cold (overnight or longer), pressure test cooling system, and see if coolant drips out of the exhaust ports.

Mountain tech in Oregon City may have one, I saw they had a can full of turbos a month ago before they vacated a warehouse... not to mention a few thousand square feet (covered) of parts.