2.5GL

Dash almost out, just have the airbag 'puter and dash bolts/wire harnesses to remove/unfasten. I won't use stop leak, it is made to plug small holes in which the heater core and more importantly the radiator are comprised of. Heater stops working, you get cold. Radiator stops working, you might get to do HGs at least or replace an engine... If you aren't to keen on watching your gauges and/or in-tune to your cars behavior. More to follow...

Well, it was Tuesday morning (20 Jan 09), put the kids in the car, started off, noticed the windows were unusually foggy this morning... It never cleared, It started to smell, Cleaned the windows while dropping kids at school, Popped radiator cap to keep system from building pressure, Still foggy, Foggier, Ah, crap, I gotta do a heater core!!! I have the camera at work, anybody need pics of stuff I may come across? Let me know...soon. I am going out to drain the coolant now. Lewis

There are a bunch of us around, Sherwood, Newberg, Wilsonville, Clackamas, Oregon City, Portland, Vancouver... Can't say I know of many over on the other (your) side tho. If you want to do a meet, start a post in the meet-n-greet sub-forum!

29-33 MPG? Imagine an egg strapped to the gas pedal and you have to push on the egg to drive. DON'T BREAK THE EGG and you MIGHT get 33 MPG. Did you use NGK plugs and Subaru wires? Those other plugs from big box stores aren't any good. Get NGK or Nippon Denso from a parts store or Subaru Dealer.

They are all busy skiing or working at the 3 or 4 ski areas here. I would if I lived that close.

yup, no mount holes, and the cam lacks the groove needed to run the disty.

Whack, er, gently tap the base of the motor (with something hard) with it turned on, see if it starts up. If it does, you just need a motor. If it does not work on all speeds, you'll need the resistor block as well... 4 wires, white plug, on the front of the heater box behind glove box. It is metal, about 1.5 x 2.5 inches held in place with two phillips screws. I would suspect a relay if whacking it does not work, just remember to check for power at the fan before digging too deep, maybe even leaving a tester on the wires to see if it comes on while digging, you may have a short... however unlikely. Lewis

This is from yesterday, around noon. Today its up to the line in the pic, about 2 inches down from the trim on the door. That's about 14-15" I think. Lewis

+1

Yes, they did make 2WD sedans, wagons, and coupes. Most usually had a 1.8 engine, few (if any) had a 2.2. 2WD were even available as a 5 speed or Auto as well. The VIN does help... JF1 = FHI passenger vehicle G = Impreza F = Impreza sport wagon 1993 2 = 1800cc Impreza 1993-94 4 = "L" model 4 = Passenger manual belt & airbag 1993-94 6 = Check digit = no meaning P = 1993 B = FHI 5 speed manual transmission 1990-97 801001 & after = Impreza wagon 1995 (I think my book has a type-o) Either way, looks like you got a EJ18 with a 2WD 5 speed trans. Lewis

1. camber out too much 2. excessive/hard cornering:banana:

That certainly helps, still looking for automatics and some older stuff. Ultimately, I will compile all that I find into one source...eventually.

I have found a site that has past Subaru transmission ID listed with part number etc, except no gear ratio. anybody know of a link to something that would have the g/r with the ID too??? http://prosubaru.com/tech/transid.htm

65 +/- 7 ftlb.

Registered, but could not get my user name to work. So now i go by yet another alias...

Either way, someone is going to be having too much fun!

T-stat should be spring down. Aftermarket t-stats often are smaller that OE so those are easy to install upside down. OE usually cause a fit issue when installed upside down, as they are too large to fit that way. If you put in a over a gallon and a half you should be full, however small bubbles can cause overheating. I usually wait until it gets hot once, while hot stab the throttle a few times to circulate coolant while the t-stat is open and some more bubbles come out. Otherwise you are up against a radiator...(overheats while under a load) or a fan switch (overheats at idle, though tough to do with a mechanical fan running.) While it "overheating" put you hand in the air flowing from the radiator and see if it hot, to check if the radiator releases heat to the air, if not it is most likely too plugged up.

+1! I'd like to see that... Get Time Warp from The Discovery Channel to tape it.

Then you have to clear memory for a crank sensor code... Just unplug the coil. Crank until the oil light goes off, or about 1 minute. The starter will take it. Heck, with a broken timing belt and some tape on the clutch switch, you can drive 'em around with the starter!

+1 for a NW region chapter... Portland, OR. specifically. 15" pug alloys soon! wrapped in 30s! well, er, maybe 28s.... need decals too! \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ POOPARU where are you? we need some graphic design and graphics!!!!

Fine... $15.00 plus shipping VIA UPS ground. Do I hear $10.00?.... Lewis

What's that supposed to mean???

dats da one!

better yet Check Portland Craigslist Look for SUBARU WATER PIPE I'll post it there. Just give it a few minutes to post... Lewis

Apparently my IT guy has this 'puter locked down too tight, I can't download to USMB. I 'll need to e-mail you. lewis