2.5GL

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$50.00, but I'll have to ship it to ya. I could get the o-rings, but only at the same $$ as dealer. PM me if you wish, negotiations accepted;) Lewis

Subaru belts installed properly will run for nearly 100K that I have seen. Pending no pullies seizing, or severe oil leaks soaking the belt, etc. NAPA or other off brands may break sooner, especially if the installer didn't have a clue on how to properly tension them. Subaru recommended 60K for the timing belt replacement intervals, I would go by that number to be safe. Just remember that if they break, the only additional cost is the tow truck to get it to the shop, it is a non-interference engine. Lewis

Subaru part number 806715081 I think. Should be able to replace without removing radiator hose, but, you'll make a bigger mess.... I suggest removing radiator hose, draining radiator and engine and replacing said "water pump bypass" hose. The reason why is the entire engine and heater system will drain regardless as they are "above" the thermostat, might as well dump the radiator as well. If you can get a 5 gallon bucket up to it when removing, the thermostat housing/lower radiator hose is they way to go. Enjoy! Lewis

last I checked, (a few years ago) the key lock was cheaper than the push-button latch from the dealer. $4.00 Vs. $12.00

PM Sent.

condition of normal, but.... are you using something like 20-50 oil??? I know its vermont, your car should be thawed out by now... These gauges are not what you would call "spot-on" they are more/less and indicator of rise and fall of the peticular system being monitored. make sure to run between 10-30 and at the most 15-40 weight oil. there are many opinions on this, use what is defined in your owners book or tech manual for the given atmospheric temperature encountered. either way, do you really want less oil pressure? Lewis

Not really, considering that you most likely have a mechanical failure of the clutches... more specifically, the hub which "drives" the clutches from the inside. The hub has grooves worn into it from the clutches, and the clutches can't release. This condition would be more noticeable if the tires aren't all matching to less than 1/8" circumfrence between any tire, assuming brand, model, size, and pressure match. Duty solenoid "C" will show as "24" when the Codes are pulled from TCU correctly... 16 straight flashes just tells you there is a problem, 24 would be two long flashes followed by four short ones, kinda like morse code. See this thread for more info... Lewis http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 titled: "More on Torque Bind"

Aside from the FWD light on and off, I would consider this to be the worst case scenario. Replace the tail housing, grind the afore mentioned teeth, and replace solenoid "C", and the two seals on the rear output shaft that transmit hydraulic power to the clutches, they are white-ish in color, square-cut, and placed in grooves that are on the shaft of the hub. Lewis

I'm in, if I can split work in time. But I'll be moving slow, three of us from work in my hatch towing a trailer... Oh, and perhaps some bikes on the roof too!!! Lewis

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81111 Check here, look into other links on this thread for more info on a 2.2 swap too. Use the search feature to find more info on lift stuff...lots there too. Also Check http://www.sjrlift.com/ Lewis

See previous reply(ies)... However, considering age and mileage, a formal disclosure on a bill of sale or transfer of registration to the difference of mileage at the time of the replacement should suffice, considering the other person's (buyer) presence and involvement in the transaction. OR, fill out an "Odometer Disclosure" and hope that it can be "post-dated". Lewis

Talked to a DEQ (department of environmental quality=OREGON) person last week... they said "current test only sniffs exhaust at idle, possibly a run to 2500 RPM. No more underhood inspections, just check for a catalytic converter." SO, I said, "what about a different engine all together?" DEQ- "As long as it passes the test for the year the chassis/frame was made, and has a working catalytic converter, no problem." They seem confident about their answer, and I didn't see any hoods going up on the older stuff while I was there, just a probe in the pipe, and a mirror on a stick to look under the car for the "cat". Lewis

You've got my wheels turnin'. Do you need any head cores for R & D? I am looking for early 2.5 cam possibilities for my '98 RS ditto for pre-EGR EJ22 for my hatch swap. Lewis

I just purchased BFGoodrich G-Force KDW N/T for my Impreza RS. $578.00 out the door with no questions asked replacement warranty. Size: 205/55/16 From: America's Tire Co. aka Discount Tire Co. I personally do not like the potenzas, ran a couple different sets, none of them grip like the Toyo Proxes "4's" I just got rid of and they didn't grab as well as the KDWs I just bought. I am almost certain that the KDWs won't last as long either though:headbang:. Lewis

The ball seat adapters have been found (Discount Import Auto, Milwaukie), and better lug nuts to go with em'(Schwab). Wheels fixed/straightened (Factory Wheel Outlet, Clackamas). XT-6 flywheel is off to the machine shop to get re-drilled. Engine and harness from a 91 sedan next month. Lewis

I'll be needin' some flyers too... let me know... Lewis

Ahem, "Parts person"... lets be politically correct if were going to correct others. Besides, the person I most often work with at the dealer is a woman, and usually spot-on far more than anyone else in the department. (thanks Leah!) Especially with all the wacko questions I have. SUBARU3, Just make sure to ground yourself and remove the static electricity from your body prior to working on it. A grounding strap or wire should connect you to the metal frame of the airbag itself while performing the work as well. Its only a blasting cap, (with an explosive mixture to be detonated by it) and should be treated as such, no big deal. Have fun! Lewis

I hate to say it, but I would suspect valve lash adjustment again, even though the compression tests are good. Would it be possible to swap in an ECU to see if it is control related? Do you know anybody near you with a similar car to trade ECU for a few minutes? It's just an idea though... Lewis

There you have it... I'd go with the answer from the Parts Pro man... But you could "cut and splice" the right connector into place:lol::lol:, Ummm, NO. Lewis

Two things... 1) are we talking about the "brake" light on the dash that comes on when the parking brake is engaged or the fluid is low in the reservior? OR 2) the brake lights themselves, that should only come on when the brake pedal is depressed? answer. 1) sticky switch on park brake lever OR low fluid 2) as mentioned before the stopper on the pedal OR a wrong bulb installed in the taillight socket. It requires an 1157 bulb, an 1156 will fit, if forced and short to the brake light when the running lights are on. replace it with an 1157. check the socket for corrosion and loose contact too. Lewis

I would have to actually see the plug for the air bag. My guess is there is no difference other than the "look" of the air bag cover. I would figure that the entire steering wheel would need to be changed as the two horns operate differently, but might be worth a look into swapping just the air bags out. I would not try to remove the cover from the air bags, just swap 'em and see.... Oh, and if you don't have cruise control, now would be the time to add it since you'll be in there and can install the switch. Lewis

It will work both ways, but if your key fob is dead and you don't care to replace it, turning the ignition on will save you the frustration of having it honk at you without a way to turn it off... if the remote works, letting it go off is fine...

remember to have the key in the ignition and turned to the "on" position when hooking the battery up, this way the lights will not flash, etc. then you should be o.k. lewis

I might guess that the TCU could be screwed up, if after clearing codes and they all (or most) return I'd swap a TCU in before attempting a repair of the trans. As usual a proper inspection of wiring and connectors is in order but it would be highly unlikely for all that to go bad and still be driving... I wouldn't sweat it just yet.