2.5GL

With a dead battery the easiest way to return the alarm to a normal state (after replacing the battery, and without a key fob) would be to... turn the key on, disconnect battery, and reconnect after a few seconds. Leaving the key on will not allow the alarm to trip, or go off. The reason the alarm went off is due to the lack of power needed to operate correctly, and when you tried to turn the engine over it was as if the battery was dead from the alarm's point of view. Either way, it is most likely a Chapman alarm and sucks anyway. I would disconnect at the brain and "jump" the door lock leads so the rest of the doors work from drivers switch, or find where the "port installers" tapped into the door lock and reverse their evil do-ings. Lewis

The first I is an O2 sensor, but unknown application. The second is I think is a headlight washer motor for an XT-6. Strange things can be found when you try to clean up a bit, I found these in a deep, dark corner, and can't remember what they came off of.

First get the Service manager involved, if not already... Then, get the General Manager (responsible for the dealer as a whole) involved... Next, find the guy/gal with the same name as the dealer, "Loman" right? He/She tends to have a vested interest in your happiness as they own the place. If it is a corporate entity skip that step and go for the DSOM (District Service Operations Manager, or something like that) from Subaru of America. The service manager should KNOW his name, and have his phone number available. You probably won't get his number, but you can make sure he calls and sets up an appointment to meet. BTW Cherry Hill isn't too far away, is it? You could stand on somebody's desk there too. Put a lawyer on retainer, and have your requests for reconciliation presented to the dealer on the lawyer's letter-head. This will get the ball rolling if nothing else did. Be prepared to go to small claims cort (Check you area's dollar amount cap.) and document the hell out of everything, even if all you did was leave a message with the receptionist for someone to call you. Dates, times, names of those with whom you spoke, ect. REMEMBER: The original HG failure was a "part" problem: Subaru's fault for possible bad engineering, or their supplier's fault for bad products. AND...The misfire and overheat belong to the dealer. Subaru will deny responsibility for it. Your best bet is to use Subaru to leverage the dealer into covering the cost of engine replacment and resurfacsing the heads. Sorry you got burned, and I hope there is a solution for you sooner than later. PM me if you have specific questions on this... Lewis

+1 for sure, maybe 2 more after I get that one 'cause the guys in back will probably want their own... Lewis

new info... Does it run? Yes: Cams are in the correct location. other problems are most likely the cause. No: Check cams first, the engine won't run, but if it did, it would not be driveable. Good luck! Lewis

84 hatch, disconnected back in '94 as it leaks when in use, otherwise would still work if hooked up. I have heard they are re-sealable but don't want to go there. I was also told that thirteen years ago, parts may be an issue now. Lewis

I would hope that a valve adjustment was done after the new head was on the engine. I would doulble check all the previously mentioned cam timing and cam placement ideas topped off with a valve clearance check. AND, if the cam placement is wrong make sure they check the valve clearance AGAIN after proper install of the cams. Lewis

Flashing CEL generally means get of the road, park it, and tow it. Solid light means drive to facility to have checked. The two codes mentioned are misfire Cylinder #3 and #4. Since these two codes coincide with the rear coil operating the #3 & #4 cylinders, the coil pack could be the next logical step. I would check compression on all cylinders and possibly do a "leak down" test. To do a leak down test, apply compressed air to cylinder while at top dead center a.k.a. TDC, and check for air flowing out of intake manifold, exhaust pipe, oil filler cap, radiator cap. No air flow should be felt or noticed from intake, exhaust, and radiator, but a slight amount from oil filler cap is normal. If air movement is felt from intake or exhaust you might very well have a burned valve, usually on the exhaust side. Lewis

I really can't figure out why 2.5s are getting such a bad rap. I have never had a problem with one after putting in third generation head gaskets. Makes me wonder who's doing the work, and what parts are being used, and if proper head bolt torque specs are followed... Anybody have repeat head gasket failures on the same block/head combo? Please explain what happens, who fixed, what they used, how they did it, ect. I am just amazed at the negativity towards this engine, and would like to see if there is a reason why. Don't get me wrong though, 2.2s are good, reliable, bullit proof, and economical. Statistically less problems than a 2.5, but man, condemnation for a head gasket failure that is a "parts" based problem, remedied with a newer HG. Oh, and I know, piston slap... but how many truly have this problem when regularly maintained?:-\ Lewis

Just remember, getting this fixed (properly) will leave you with a good car if other maintenence is kept up. You could try a post here on the USMB in the classifieds and see if anyone is parting out or selling a motor. I have some down here in Portland, but shipping is $$$$$$ and my company is proud of their stock sooooo... First thing that comes to mind is Aarons auto wrecking in W. Seattle. I know there are others, I just can't think of them at this time of night. There are also about 5, maybe 7 Subaru specialists up there too, check your phone book. Good luck, I hope it comes together for you. Lewis

Replace the radiator as well and flush the dickens out of your heater core. Stop leak is designed to plug small holes. So, what is inside of those components??? That's right, a bunch of small holes, soon not to be... Lewis

Coolant conditioner AKA stop leak... Don't do it. I would guess you have a bum engine on your hands. If you could source one for a decent price, I think it would be worth the dough to have HG done on the replacement before putting it in. Save the old one and sell it to someone who needs a core to rebuild/play with. Lewis

by gen 1 do you mean "EA71" or 1978-1981 brat? and gen 2 "EA81" or 1982 and later? I think no. some measurements may need to be made, and I can't remember since it has been a few years since I was under either. On that note, this is what I do know... '82 and earlier don't fit '83 and later, as the newer bumpers stick out further from the car. Mounting and over-all design are different too. EA81 1982 and earlier mount to the cross member and bumper (they are long with a large skid plate). EA81 1983 and later are shorter and mount only to bumper (uses stock skid plate) The early "long" version. You can see here that the tubes go back to the cross member. The late "short" version. It is slighly narrower as well so it fits between the bumper "extensions"(?) If I got something wrong, sorry. I am going off of what I know, and others may have more diffinitive information. Trying to fit the longer one on a later car is a PITA... Lewis

Find someone with a wrecked car, pay them $200 bucks for it, drag it to whomever will do the work, pay to have headgaskets done on "donor" engine (all 2.5s will have HG go bad [eventually] if they are not the third generation gaskets), install donor engine into your car, part-out remaining donor making back some of your losses. There will be added labor to remove two engines, perhaps you could remove one yourself and truck it in to the shop where your car is. There are many people here that *may* help... I live too far away though... Just make sure you can get some history on the car and perhaps see if it runs, etc. Lewis BTW: What evidence do you have that proves the bearings are bad? How may miles on yours?

Car Quest premium = WIX and I use it on my car since SUBARU quit using the 15208AA060 (large) filter and went to the 15208AA100 (small) filter. Just don't use a FRAM, Multiple personal experiences (mine and others near and dear to me) and otherwise a personal and professional opinion. Look here for your filtering needs: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html Lewis

DITTO. I regularly put in ATF in a friends car, due to her outstanding lack of oil change history and subsequent frequent oil loss without visible signs of leakage. 4 qts 10-30 + 1 qt ATF = change oil every 1000-1500 miles. No problems in 25,000 miles and its gettin' cleaner, and burning less oil. We are now up to 2500 mile intervals and decreasing the amount of ATF used too. I have seen it before---2.5 qts 10-30 + 2.5 qts deisel. It cleans it up quick, but you'll end up trying to suck the oil through all the "flakes" stuck in the sump screen. It didn't work for this particular guy as he fried his engine thinking he was "cleaning it". So, it is a slow process, and a bit more expensive than what? A tear-down of your engine? No. Another engine? Not really. Drive it on longer trips as well, short trips kill cars. Lewis

I figured that I would try local stuff first, however, to no avail... I guess I'll be ordering some soon... Thanks again Mr. Chux! Lewis

Was just there for lunch today and no luck... I took the pic in and he said he'd call his supplier on monday and let me know. I am also going to call a few junk yards around the country to see if they have them. A search has shown some Pugeots and wheels in stock, perhaps they will still have lug nuts... Lewis

Well, I found out this week that I need these lug nuts to run the pugs on the hatch... anybody have clue where to get them short of importing them from France? (aluminum cone to fit against wheel with free-spining steel threads and hex head) OR.... Should I just back up a bit, sell the pugs, and drill the hubs for a toyota 6-lug? Besides, I still need the "spare" 15" wheel too. Lewis

I just might do that, PM me with contact info and location... Are you available middays, say 12 to 1 or so? Ultimately, it depends on where you are, let me know... Lewis

What shop made it for you? Where are they? Lewis

Kinda leanin' towards "normal" for that engine, and future upgrades/tune-ability. Besides I am one of those people that don't "get" carburators.... Just ask my co-workers, I rant every time I have to "fix" one and want to burn down the car its on. I can make 'em work, and work right, but don't like it when I have to.:cool: Lewis

Already figured I would go with a one peice driveline, but I am very interested as to what could be done to the linkages and???..... Jerry? would that be bratsrus1? Thanks, and keep the ideas coming guys!!! Lewis

Thanks for the good advice, I am still searching this forum as well as others that I can find. The more info I have now means less down time later (I hope) when putting it all togehter. The good news is that I have doaner cars out the wahzoo right now, I just have to get the boss to let me at one of 'em to get all the wiring and electronics. I was already leaning towards a 90-94 2.2 for the ease of set-up. I figure I am nearly doubling the power output, I shouldn't need a 2.5... but, if it fits and I have (or can get) one, will it work with the early 2.2 ECU w/o problems or modiications? Thanks again, Lewis

I found the thread on EJ swaps by numbchux... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69741 That explains alot about what to do, so I am looking for ideas/insight to doing the lift at the same time and for input as to what lift to use, how much lift, how much tire, what should I look out for, add, remove as I go to make this a "one shot" deal. I want to round up all the parts and with three guys, get it done in two days, 'er 48 hours non-stop if that's what it takes. Here's the deal... 1984 Hatch - EA81, 4sp, D/R 267,000 miles Getting.... 1. ENGINE: EJ22 or EJ25: Haven't yet decided which one, a co-worker says EJ20/22T. 2. TRANSMISSION: EA82 5 speed dual range: requires custom drive line, right? Will it take the power of a 2.5? 3. WHEELS: 15" Pugeot, Have 4, looking for 1 more... 4. TIRES: LT235/75R/15C BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM, A good tire from what I know, any other thoughts? I was hoping for something narrower. 5. LIFT: I was thinking 4", from what I have read the tires I've spec'd would fit, but I am open to all opinions in this matter... 6. ADAPTER PLATE: Who has 'em? And for how much? (SJR, and.....) 7. STEERING LINKAGE: What exactly are people doing to rectify this? 8. BRAKE LINES: Obviously need to be longer, anybody find easy-to-bolt-on parts? 9. SHIFTER LINKAGE: Again, like the steering, what's the fix for this? 10. HOSES: This is going to be fun, how many trips to the parts store will this take? Anybody got a part number laying around? 11. CABLES: Speedometer, clutch, hillholder, throttle?,?,?,?... 12. anything else I should know about???? Somebody out there has done this before, and I hope to tap into that knowledge just a bit if I could, it would save me time I don't really have to do this in the first place. BTW: my wife is gonna kill me, she thinks that I'd never do this to my beloved car of 14 years and 120,000 miles!!! (obviously not the daily driver) And I'll be gone, away from the kids for probably more than one weekend. Any and all facts, thoughts, opinions invited, I want no surprises when I do this. Thanks, Lewis