2.5GL

who do I buy one from now? do you have the CNC codes for my machinist to use? I eventually will need two units to put EJ22s onto 5MT/DRs in a 84 Hatch and brat. Thanks. Lewis

Thanks for the recognition... I'm just trying to help out a bit. BTW, How has it worked out for ya? Lewis.

A small pry-bar or similar will pull the hub from tranny housing. Just be smart as to where you pry, and how much. It usually comes out easy. Post #52, pic #4 shows the shaft of the hub with two seals (white) on the shaft. I have not had an issue requiring these to be replaced, ever. (unless, of course, you mess them up...) Lewis

When was the last time you changed your oil? Lewis

And finally the grooves, repaired. #1. The grooves in the hub teeth. (hub shown removed from the transmission.) #2. Grinding the teeth down to eliminate the groove, #3. The difference between grooves and no grooves. #4. Top profile of hub with grooves removed. #5. Close-up view. Any more definition needed? I still have my camera here and the trans available. Lewis

More of the clutches... #1. Retainer ring holding clutches in the drum. #2. Clutches stacked showing alternating teeth in and out. #3. Clutches spread out showing retainer plate (the one missing every-other tooth) and retainer ring, far right. Lewis

Well, here they are... new pics showing more detail. #1. Rear output driven drum in place. This is how it should look when reassembled. #2. Rear output driven drum being removed. #3. Notice orange teeth inside drum and corresponding grooves on the hub. Lewis

If you remove the hub from the trans to grind down the grooves, replacing it is easy at that point... the hardest thing to do is spend the money:lol: Lewis Steve: pics to come, but may take a couple of days due to the holiday weekend, and no electronics for me where I am going:headbang::headbang:.

recalls stand fot the life of the car- you could still take in a Justy:eek: and get the "Takata seatbelt recall" done for free... even if you are the 32 owner with 425,987 miles on it:headbang: Now, about that ASV for my '82 GL... that may be a different story:burnout: Lewis

Impreza OBS are good, 2.2 engine is solid, and (far) less prone to head gasket failures. The only thing that stands out for me regarding an Impreza is the rear wheel bearings. They will go bad, sooner than other Subarus. This is due to the fact that they use a ball bearing instead of a taper bearing , this causes a higher load on the surface of the bearing, resulting in premature wear. When bearings are replaced, be sure to replace them with a Legacy rear wheel bearing as they are of the taper style. Ooooh, the other thing... Tailgate wiring tends to "break" at the bend between body and tailgate, easily fixed with some "butt" connectors though. Lewis

ditto--- can you find a used tire(s)? measure with a thin metal tape, or cloth one from you wife's sewing kit, (you'll need at least 6.5 feet) ensuring that there is less than 1/4" difference in circumference. You'll be fine, otherwise go with the fuse, but only for a short time. Lewis

All I can say is that I have had more luck fixing the mechanical aspects of the binding and replacing the solenoid as good measure-as it ends up being faulty 70% of the time (roughly). IF TB is still present, it will be greatly reduced in severity and then a subsequent R&R of TCU is required to eliminate the irregular duty cycle causing the remaining TB. HOWEVER- if you wish, you can always replace the TCU prior to tearing apart you tranny, you migh "luck-out". but in the long run, mechanical things tend to let you down more than the electronics do with a 4EAT. Lewis

I guess I should have shown a pic with the clutches in place.... Pic #3 is the "drum" and a set of "plates" aka "clutches" ride in the drum. Half of those clutches have teeth to the outside, or drum side, the other half to the inside, or hub side-where the grooves are worn into the teeth. (pic #2) When those clutches are compressed by transmission pump pressure they then transmit power from the "drive" shaft of the Auto Trans Box to the "driven" shaft of the extension housing (rear driveline). While accelerating, the clutches dig into the hub and wear a groove into the metal, as time (years) passes, the grooves become deep enough for the clutches to stick into and not release pressure, causing AWD bind-up in tight corners. I could round-up more pics if needed...let me know the relations of parts/views needed. Lewis

As shown in pic #2, the grooves in the hub are caused by the clutches themselves, thus, "wear" occurs over time, and they get stuck in those grooves and are unable to release. This is what happens (the sticking) when the FWD fuse is installed but the binding sensation is still there. In many cases the solenoid is bad as well. Sometimes a simple continuity test shows that it is bad, other times it tends to be temperature related and won't show a problem, or high resistance unless the solenoid is at or near the transmission's operating temperature. I would replace the solenoid and remove grooves on the hub teeth. This point of connection is simply mechanical, no hydraulics involved, no leak to worry about. The grooves in the extension housing (pic #5) are caused from the seals on the output shaft of the transmission. While this may cause some pressure leakage, this would not cause the torque bind as there would be less pressure to the clutches, thus a delay in AWD activation, or a limited amount of operation. Lewis

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To all those that planned, donated, volunteered, worked, slaved, etc. THANK YOU!!! If it we're not for those individuals (and their families) we would not have had a show to brag OR complain about. Dinner or not, it was still a good show, lots to see and do. Even with my RS, I wheeled more than many others did, next year the hatch gets her turn... Thanks again, and here is a vote for the ORV park again next year. Lewis

That would be for the slight grooves found in the housing shown in the last pic, correct? Lewis

300-500 labor depending on the shop, then you need to supply a tranny or buy theirs... guessing $200-800 in parts Lewis

The grooves in question are the five on the leading edge of the hub, typically the worst of the two sides. The top two are insignificant, but can be smoothed as well. I use a small cut-off wheel on a die grinder, a dremel would work too. The solenoid gets replaced as well as smoothing the hub teeth, and the part numbers are... 31942AA090 Valve Ay. transfer clutch (This is the one for a majority of vehicles, some early models took a different part #.) 31954AA071 (QTY=2) Gasket for solenoid and plate. 31337AA120 Extension housing gasket 44022AA020 Exh gasket, dual port OR 44011AC020 Single port (if needed) 44022AA062 Exh gasket, large "y" pipe OR 44011AC000 Small pipe (if needed) 11126AA000 Drain plug gasket for tranny Remember.. all this for nothing if your tires do not match Brand, Model, and size. Even though sizes my be the same, tread depth is crutial as well... more than say 2-3/32 difference will cause issues over time. Lewis Edit: remember that the drive hub (top) can be pryed out of the trans, so while smoothing, you can limit the amount of debris into the trans. Take care as there are seals on the shaft that need to be left intact or you're getting new ones. A light coat of trans assembly lube will hold them down during re-assembly.

700-800 RPM or so, with the two green connectors plugged in to freeze the timing. (located between spare tire and wiper motor/fuel filter area.) Lewis

Let me know if you need a sunroof assembly, I may have one available. L

I've heard it before... A BLOWN FRONT DIFF. Aside from the sound, there is a violent jerking in the car while moving too 'eh? You'll need a diff case (with ring gear) and the pinion shaft that goes with it at a minimum. May be easier to just swap trannies... Lewis

First, I'd check the switch to see if it is plugged in. It may have been disconnected when glued shut. If I remember right you have a '94 Turbo sedan? Remove the two map light lenses, I believe the screws are in there. Pull down light panel, check the sunroof switch is plugged in. If not, then you know what to do...And if that is the case, I would suspect that the roof leaks, and is the reason it is glued shut. You'll have to remove and reseal the track assembly to the pan, this is the spendy part... many hours and $$$ to have someone repair it. OR a day with your car in the driveway getting the interior torn out from the pillars up. Lewis

Here's the pics... The left one is the back of trans, drive hub on top. 2nd from left, close up of drive hub and grooves found on teeth that need to be removed. middle is the drum the clutches live in without significant grooves. #4 is the "transfer case" or "extension housing" with sol. C bottom right. #5 is the rear out put shaft area showing light grooves in the aluminum, theese are minor, but may have an affect on operation. Hope this helps... Lewis

We'll be in touch.... Lewis