Hondasucks

I've got close to 280 on mine, leaks a little oil but runs great.

I changed the oil on a 94 Previa with 405k on the odo, had a new engine put in at 400k, not because it needed it, but because the labor to remove the old engine, reseal it, and put it back in was about the same as a new engine, and we have a regular customer who has an 85 4Runner with 515k on it, engine just had it's second rebuild...

I think it comes from the fact that they DID sell a rebadged Swift in Europe, as a Justy, and WITH 4WD. Google it. They just never made it over here.

I've seen the same thing before, but it was an Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser, with an actual pickup camper in the back.. Was even sporting a duallie rear axle! (And a 455 HO)

I think they did that on the 4EAT equipped EA cars in order to not have to modify the existing three speed gear shift mechanism, but I do not know how the 1st gear hold switch works, if it moves the cable another detent, or of it just electronically holds it in first. You might have to swap the Legacy shifter mechanism in. Aside from that, I have no clue what other differences might exist between the EA 4EAT and the EJ 4EAT. If I were you I'd just swap to a 5 speed I have a good 5 speed, granted it's a turbo 5 speed so it's 3.7, but it's one of the dual range part-time boxes that are hard to find...

Yeah, you have to get the really good stuff though or it wears off. I have heard of plastic restorer that's supposed to restore faded plastic, but I dunno where to get it.

That is the oil separator plate, aka "access cover" and is prone to leaking on the engines that Subaru used a plastic cover on. It does not have anything to to with the rear main seal though, the rear main is the rear crank shaft seal, and it does not have a "retainer" One of those things that is a good idea to replace while you have the motor out, regardless of if it is leaking or not.

The master tech I work next to told me that it's usually the wrist pin that's the problem on those... I'd just swap in another motor, and replace the oil pump while it's out.

If that doesn't stop it, it very well could be the rear access cover, Good news is a new rear access cover, a metal one to replace the s%*%&$ plastic one that likes to leak, is under $20 from your friendly Subaru dealer, bad news is the access cover is behind the flywheel.

Is it still under warranty? I think it's time to trade it in on a Subaru

Could possibly be a broken pump drive shaft, they are pretty skinny. Maybe put a pressure gauge on it? IF it's somethign stupid, fix it, but if it's something that requires yankin the tranny out, swap it to a manual.

That's a nice hatch! I wish I could find one of those to pimp back and forth to work, SVX is great to drive but man does it suck down the gas firing it up, driving it a mile and a half, shutting it off, repeat at end of day!

Yeah, I would go to the local guy, you aren't going to save anything buying it off the internet once you factor in shipping, plus you're helping the local guy feed his family. That tool will pay for itself in saved frustrations, bloody knuckles, and swearing, the first time you use it.

A competent dealership parts department should be able to tell you. I know what it is but I don't remember the weight, since at my work we have two barrels and the blue one is diffs and trannies and the brown one is Toyota diffs Just go to the parts counter and tell 'em you need some gear oil for your diffy.

No, there is another shaft in there that is not pictured, the oil pump is on the other side of the differential from the TC, that final "click" is the ears that you see on the pump rotor in my picture, engaging with the drive lugs on the oil pump drive shaft. They are a little tricky to get in, but once they are in all the way the surface of the boss on the TC where the bolt goes, is about 1/8 to 1/4" BELOW the mating surface of the bellhousing. Another tidbit: You think getting those four bolts in that attach the TC to the flexplate is difficult? Rolls-Royces have 32 (!). The trick the master tech showed me at work, is first stuff a rag down the hole so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall inside the bellhousing. Next, clip the bolt to a magnetic pickup tool, so the bolt is perpendicular to the tool, and using the tool and your fingertip, guide the bolt into the hole. Once it's in, remove the tool while holding the bolt in place with your finger, and thread it in. Once all of them are in a few threads, then tighten. If you tighten one without all 3 other bolts in, you'll usually get to the last one and it won't thread in lol.

I wanna get this body style Land Cruiser: Preferably EFI and manual trans I did a PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection) on an 08, man they are nice but I think for $75k I'd rather have a motorhome!

Sweet, Corvallis is my hometown, so I'll save the $500 and just come eat dinner with anyone who comes down.. Maybe snag one of the wholesale rigs from work so it looks like I came in a $500 beater lol...

lol I remember that trip.. I think Mike will pay you to crop PHB (the one in the yellow shirt) out of that pic lol. lol Richie and Jason, back in the day.. Got my little 2WD 83 GL-10 all kindsa dirty... And realized I REALLY needed to fix my 4WD rig!

Some outbacks have LSD too, but I have yet to see one with a sticker on the diff, best way is just turn the axle on one side and if the other side turns the same direction, it's LSD. I don't know what outbacks had it, I just know that a lot of the ones that come into my work (Subaru dealer) when I have it up on the lift and I'm rotating the wheel to check the brakes and axle boots in the rear, both rear tires turn the same direction.

I think I remember a while back someone using the cupholder out of a Tercel, that it fit in the EQ pocket in the Scosche stereo install kit for an EA82. Don't remember who it was though.

Yeah, the only cool Holden I've seen is the Commodore with the Skyline motor (Not sure if it was stock though) But I kinda like the wierd stuff we don't have here in the states

That;s a Toyota V8, note the fact it has the "bean in a hat" Toyota logo on the front of it? The Lexus engine has the Lexus "L" on it. (They're the same motor though, although I THINK the Lexus motor has slightly more output.) I'm not 100% sure what that motor is out of, since it doesn't look like the Tundra 4.7, which leads me to believe it's a JDM 1UZFE which came in the Toyota Celsior (which we got as the Lexus LS400) still a pretty spiffy motor. And not as expensive as one would think, since the 1UZ first came to the US in 90 or 91 (can't remember which)

That is kewl! At least they kept in Japanese, there's a gen1 brat in Lebanon that is on a Blazer frame with a 350 at least it used to be, I dunno if they guy even finished it, I emailed him about the original drive train and never got an answer ooh, found pics, looks like it did get finished: More pics here http://www.sweethome4wda.com/4wheelin_photos.html Scroll to the bottom of the page, right click the photo and choose "view image" to open in in a new window (They're full size pics, shrunk down with HTML.. What bandwidth? )

This is what happens if you force it, and manage to get the car to run long enough to sieze the pump: Oil pump rotor is siezed to the housing Pump siezed but TC kept spinning and spread the ears out. But I didn't mind cuz thanks to the idiot that F*$*$*ed it up I gotta $800 SVX

I had a parts car that had all the RX goodies (checkered seats, dual range trans, etc..) but it had a digital dash.. so it didn't have any RX badges on it (however the trunk lid just said "SUBARU") I've heard that the dual range was an OPTION on the turbos, even the later full time dual range... And my parts car, according to the VIN, was NOT an RX, but it had everything else. Also, most of the GL-10 standard goodies, were options on the lower level cars, so it WAS possible to get a GL with digital dash and other goodies, it was even possible to get a non-turbo GL-10, however most people that ordered the GL-10, went all out and got the fully loaded model.