Hondasucks

For the newer gen cars, look into getting an EZ30, (or an EZ36 if you are lucky), they're about the same HP output as the EG33, but they are lighter, and smaller (only 0.8" longer than an EJ25) They aren't as bad rump roast as the EG33 though (Although they don't involve hacking up an SVX :-()

I already have an STi

Autozone sells a can of stuff you spray in the AC sytem (1 shot in each vent, half can into outside intake with fan on high, rest of can into inside air intake with fan on high and AC on recirc) I used it on my wifes car and the stinky odor went away Another thing that might work is Microban, we use it at work if a car has a musty/moldy smell.

Lemmie know if you need any pics or anything, as I have a 92 SVX. Also, while it's out, do the plugs, they are a PAIN when the motor is in an SVX, I can't imagine how much fun they are in something with even less room in the engine bay... (My recommendation is OEM Iridium plugs, they're kinda spendy, but it's worth it not having to mess with your plugs for 90,000 miles...

http://www.txchange.com Transmission Exchange in Portland, they probably have one in stock, I dunno what it'd cost though + shipping, but it's a safe bet getting one from the junkyard would be cheaper.

What other car gets 50 MPG in town? I know there are way cheaper cars, like the Yaris, that get ~40ish on the highway (Prius is rated 48 city / 45 highway, but they are capable of 50+) but they only get 25-28 or so in town... And the hybrid stuff is getting cheaper Also, it's not solely about the fuel savings. When you're sitting at a light, the engine shuts off (unless the hybrid battery's charge is low), so you aren't dumping crap into the atmosphere or wasting fuel. Yeah, based solely on fuel savings, the cost of a $24,000 bottom-end Prius isn't all that worth it when you consider a bottom-end Yaris sedan is 12k and it gets pretty decent milege (27/38)

Take your starter out and see if you can rotate your torque converter by hand, you MIGHT have somehow sheared the bolts that attach the TC to the flexplate.. I've also seen flex plates crack around where they bolt to the crank.. Either one will require yankin the tranny or motor to fix though. But if it's not something stupid, I wouldn't try rebuilding it, I've rebuilt one of those before. Parts ARE still available, Transtar Industries sells 'em although not everything is available, and it'd be cheaper and easier to go with a known good unit, or a 5 speed conversion (NOT hard). As for the pump, it COULD very well be the pump drive shaft, I have no idea why it would break, but it's possible, the drive shaft runs down the center of the input shaft to the rear of the center section of the transaxle where the pump is located. Weird thing is you said it didn't make any noise, just up and puked which is weird to me... Sucks you're in Illinois as I have most of the parts for a 5 speed conversion, minus the drive shaft and pedal box...

lol nope wasn't me... I don't have an RX, and my Turbowagon has expired tags... I've got a white SVX and my wife drives a green Impreza with gold wheels...

Damn, I thought the seats in my Polara were bad! I'd try to find some EA71 or EA81 seats, as EA82 or later seats MIGHT be too wide, although since you have no center console or center hump to worry about, it shouldn't matter too much if seats are too wide, just have to sit them closer together.

You need to make that thing AWD/4WD and do a 5 lug conversion... Then you can :burnout::burnout: instead of :burnout:lol..

The transtar kits and parts are awesome, it's the shops that suck lol

lol well they're supposed to be getting me a motor mount off the one other turbo motor they have, but I still need the elbow that's bolted to the intake side of the turbo, where the hose connects that goes to the MAF (Which I also need...)

Check your connectors too, I had a code for injector #2 on my Legacy and it ended up being a loose injector connector. Keep in mind that the code indicates a problem with the affected CIRCUIT not necessarily the sensor or actuator itself. Make sure all your connectors are tight and clean, a pipe cleaner works good for corroded connections. Might want to put some dielectric grease in there after you clean it... My Legacy has a bad ACV, and it doesn't affect performance at all, except it doesn't raise the RPM when it's cold, it idles a little above 1100, and it doesn't raise the idle when the air conditioner is on, which gets annoying but nothing to really worry about, especially since the ACV for the legacy is $300 from the dealer...

I know they aren't interchangeble auto to manual, I have a bad one on my 5 speed Legacy and both spares I have are off automatic cars and they're different. They bolt in the same, but the automatic ones have an "open" coil (A to and a "close" coil (B to C), and the sticks just have one coil (A to C) The letters refer to the pins on the electrical conector. They all have three wires going to them, but the MT style will read 6 ohms or so from A to C and open from A or C to B, and the auto style will show resistance from A to B or B to C but not A to C, and if you swap them it'll throw a code.

You were down here and you didn't stop by for a brew? And that almost looks like the fire lookout that's up @ Noonday, I have a pic of my 4WD sedan up there somewhere... And I'm especially diggin the 4WD Toyota scooby-doo van!

About the only thing I'd worry about is if the timing belt broke while the car was running, and it coasted to a stop in gear, the engine would be turning without oil pressure which would not be good for the bearings. Granted there wouldnt' be much of a load on it, but metal to metal with no lube is never a good thing...

The last Subaru that I did a PDI on had square holes in the front bumper as well as sort of a molded-in flat spot for the license plate... Most of the Toyotas just have two dimples in the front bumper where the plate goes, but if you don't put the front plate on, you don't notice them becuase they are so small, more of just a guide for mounting the front plate and bracket. I have yet to PDI an Outback though.. I don't know about the dealership that you bought your car from, but where I work, a PDI, which gets done before the car goes on to the lot, involves mounting the dummy plate and frame, front and rear, so where I work in order to get no front plate you'd have to pick your car out before it got the PDI done... (Although in Oregon the front plate is required to be "permanently attached to the front of the vehicle")

Why did you throw the seat out? Take the fabric off and use it as a template to re-upholster it, or have a shop re-cover it, it's not THAT expensive, especially since you have the driver's seat to go off of, might be easier than trying to fit newer seats into it. Also, don't trash anything taking it apart that you migth not be able to replace, a lot of parts can be restored without too much effort! (I've got a 68 Dodge Polara convertible that I've been restoring, there are a LOT of parts on it that I will have to refinish or whatever instead of just replacing, since there is not a whole lot of aftermarket parts available for it. (More than for an ff-1 though...) Keep up the good work! I had a chance to get an ff-1 back in the day and the day before I went to the yard to get it, it got crushed But to him it was just a worthless old worn-out Subaru

Go to the dealer and get a set, they come in a bag of two pins, they are NOT that expensive. Make sure the beveled side of the axle hole lines up with the beveled side of the hole in the stub shaft, and drive the pin in from the beveled side. When you drive the pins out, they need to come OUT from the beveled side, meaning they have to be driven with the punch from the non-beveled side. If you are lucky enough to get there when the Mac tools truck is there, they carry the Subaru axle pin tool, it's like $20 but sometimes is on sale for $14, well worth the money.

Bit of Toyota history: The Land Cruiser is the only vehicle to be continuously sold in the US by Toyota from 1958 when they first came to the US to the present. (Although the old ones are a lot cooler than the new ones...)

Damn I should have brought the SVX, I know it's getting more power to the ground than 87 HP lol... Good job Russ can't wait to see what it does with the EJ swap... (I still have cooler windows on my coupe though...)

I dunno, the one I rented got to 60 a whole hell of a lot faster than 12 seconds... it wasn't like 5 seconds, btu I had no problem merging on the highway or passing cars up hills either.. And the main advantage to the Prius is in-town driving, they get 45-50+ MPG IN TOWN... I dunno about labor, but the battery is $3,000 but that is for the entire pack, by the time the Priuses that are on the road here start pukin batteries, they can replace individual cells instead of having to replace the whole battery unit. I do agree the price sucks, Priuses are 22ish-27ish, and you can get a loaded Yaris for 12-13 that gets 40-45 mpg..

Get the 2.5L Kit from the dealer, it comes with a NEW flywheel and is marginally more expensive (like $20) than buying each piece separately (with no flywheel), although you'll need an alignment tool ($2 from the parts store)

Engine and Trans drains are 17mm, manual tranns drain is 22mm. Engine and automatic trans drain plugs take the same gasket, and the auto trans diff plug takes the same gasket as the manual trans drain plug, but I don't know the part # off the top of my head (Any repuatble dealer parts dept should have it in stock, it's used on all the new scoobs)

I thought about synthetic, but I can get oil from work for like a buck a quart, and it gets dirty just as fast as the $8 a quart synthetic stuff. Yeah it holds up better under extreme conditions, but unless you're taking your Subaru to the Arctic Circle (Or Laramie, Wyoming) or the Southwest in August, or are running circle track with the thing, you probably don't NEED synthetic. I'd run a good, quality motor oil (I use Valvoline, Castrol, or Mobil myself, and the Super Tech line from Wal Mart is surprisingly not cheap arse junk, plus their synthetic is like $3 a quart if you insist on syntho... My last few oil changes have been with the Mobil 10W-30 we use at work and an OEM filter (I know Purolator used to make the old Subaru filters...) since I get cost + 10% (Although retail is like $6 something) and I've been satisfied.