Hondasucks

Judging by the body kit, he's probably more concerned with the look of the carbon fiber hood than the weight savings... Making one isn't all that hard. One of the really simple ways I've seen people do, won't be as light as making it totally out of CF, but I've seen people make a carbon fiber or fiberglass "skin" and bond that onto the stock hood frame. (it's not SUPER simple as it does require grinding the old metal skin off). If you are going to make one, make sure you get ALL the dents filled in the hood, because you'd be using your hood to make a mold, and any imperfection in the hood will be in the mold, which will be in the finished hood. BASIC instructions: Coat hood with mold release agent Lay fiberglass matting over hood, brush on resin. Allow to cure (I don't know how long to let it cure, read the directions!) Apply another mat and resin. If you are only going to make one hood, you don't need more than two maybe three layers for the mold, however you will need to support it somehow so it doesn't warp. If you plan on mass-producing hoods, you will want to make it with four or five layers of cloth, or consider using another material to make the mold. Once the mold is fully cured, you pop it off the hood. Now, inspect the inside of the mold for any imperfections. Divots, etc.. can be corrected by filling with resin and sanding smooth. Mold needs to be smooth inside! For the first layer in the mold, you might want to use a fiberglass mat as opposed to cloth, as it will make a smoother surface. As for the hood itself, you'd want the cloth (be it fiberglass or carbon fiber) as that's probably the look you're going for. Once you are satisfied with the mold, coat it with release agent and lay in the first layer of cloth and saturate with resin. The rest of the process goes as the mold did, and if you are going to stick your skin over the old hod frame, two layers should be sufficient, otherwise you'll need to put some wood or aluminum bracing inside to stiffen it, these can be fiberglassed over. You'll also need to fabricate a place for the hood latch to go, if you aren't going to use hood pins. If you are, you'll want to apply resin around the holes after you cut them. (Best to use a fine-toothed hole saw and don't go too fast!) to keep it from cracking. Be careful! Might be better to mold the holes in.. Keep in mind that this is from memory from what I learned in street rod class at Wyotech almost two years ago, so I probably left something out! I think there is an article on Legacy Central on making a fiberglass hood... (Fiberglass and CF are pretty much the same thing, with the exception of the material that the cloth is made of. I think the resin is different but I am not 100% sure on this!)

These are some Subaru part numbers for different things, perhaps this could be expanded into a pretty extensive list, given enough time and people. These parts are for a 1990 Legacy LS 4WD wagon A/C Belt - 73013AA000 P/S, Alt belt - 80921870 (Says on invoice "part interchanges with 809218140") Oil Filter - 15208AA100 Pilot Bearing - 806212020 Throwout bearing - 30502AA051 Clutch Disk - 30100AA851 Pressure Plate - 30210AA600

I think it was safety that prompted them to enact the law, but there are enough people employed by that law that every time they try to change it, it gets voted down, and while I agree with creating jobs, cuz I know not having a job sucks, it also sucks sitting at the gas station for a half hour to get gas...

You can get performance parts up the yinyang for those sixes, even stuff like OHC heads from Australia :-) Linn-Benton Community College used to have a Falcon station wagon with a 300-6 in it that ran a 12.5.... Sounded like a V8 with a dead cylinder lol

I dunno if this was covered or not, but in addition to the radius rod brackets you also need the transmission crossmember. I remember Jerry saying something about needing crossmembers to make his custom ones with but I can't remember, been too long :-P

I still think it's weird that up into the 80s you could get a 3/4 ton Ford truck with a 300 six!

I have video of my Legacy rolling over to 270,000 but I can't find my MiniSD adaptor so I can't get the file off my phone :-(

Chinge tu madre, esse :-P I just gotta get axles and put my I/C in, that is if a certain someone sends me the parts!!!!!

Maybe I should put that HATCH PATROL banner I got from Ken after HPSS1 on my Dodge :-P..... Since I currently don't have a functional 4x4 Subaru wheeler.. I do still have the 82 sedan but it's sitting at my friends house dead...

78 F250, it's probably a 460 if it's a big block, small block probably 351 or 400M but either way, not so hot on gas. (Better than an FE though, I had a 75 F-100 with a 390 that was good for about 8 if I babied it!) I second http://www.ford-trucks.com, I'm on there, but I can't remember my login lol I think it's Hondasucks lol..

Yeah if it's garbage, but if it's scrap metal, it's worth money. Some things most scrap places won't take, like refrigerators, unless the refrigerant is evacuated. As for garbage, most of it IS recyclable, people are just too lazy to do it!

if it werent' for the fact that's about 700 more than I paid for the car, I'd totally be down! if you could get 'em used for like 500 or so I'd totally be down, my car's got 272,000 on it, probably will be due for a new tranny in another couple hundred thousand or so :-P

MOST automatics are direct drive (1:1) in third gear. This is true of MOST manual trannies with either third gear or fourth gear, however every Subaru gear ratio chart I've ever read has no direct 1:1 gear, not sure about the older models though, haven't dug too deeply into anything 83 or so or older...

Means I've got a lil less than two months to fix the turbowagon :-P

Crutchfield sells "Bass Blockers" which just cut off anything below a certain frequency, I had a pair in my old Subaru, ran me $14+ shipping for a pair, I'd get the ones that cut off at 60 or 80 Hz, anything lower than that you're really not going to get out of stock speakers, and if you're planning on adding an aftermarket subwoofer later, that will be about the upper cutoff you'd want for the sub anyway. I have mine set at 80 Hz I think (My amp has an adjustable low-pass filter). Check your manual though, my old Pioneer Premier DEH-P410 had a subwoofer output, and when you had the sub turned on in the settings on the deck, it cut everything below 80 Hz out of the other outputs.

I average 25-26 in my Legacy, 90 wagon, 2.2 4WD MT, my old 91 sedan got 24-25 city and 27-28 on the highway (Best I ever got was 32 between SLC and Tremonton, Utah) Oddly enough, Jessica's 1.8 FWD 4AT Impreza gets WORSE mileage than my heavier wagon with a bigger engine :-P She averages 23-24, somtimes as low as 20 if she's just driving in town.

You can get aftermarket speedometers and such from Autometer, I've thought about just making a panel that fits where the old gauge cluster would mount, and cutting holes for various gauges, possibly even the bad rump roast Dakota Digital gauges ($$$) but I've always had other things I've needed to spend a crapload of money on so it's never gone anywhere lol but if there were a market for it, it'd be fairly easy to make once you got a panel worked out that would fit...

I know it's not the same as the Amsoil stuff, but @ Country Coach, since we used Allison six speed transmissions, we had this stuff called TransSynd synthetic transmission fluid, I don't know if it meets any other fluid's specs (Mercon, Dexron, etc..) but the stuff smelled like strawberries or something like that, didnt' smell like normal tranny fluid.

Go register @ the Subaru High Mileage Club, he has yet to put one in the 400k section! I can't remember the addy but google it.

It amazes me that people dump stuff like that, don't the realize scrap metal is worth money?

Mitsubishi is the largest manufacturing company in the world, at least they used to be, not sure anymore.. I've got a Mitsubishi VCR :-P Two actually lol (A lot more reliable than the Mitsubishi car I had!) As for the LUV, I've seen ONE in a junkyard that had Isuzu badges and said "ISUZU" on the tailgate, but I can't remember what the name of it was lol... Most of the Isuzu stuff I've run into has been crap, esp. the Trooper lol I don't think I know anyone with a gas trooper that hasn't had problems with it!

The bowl vent on my old Subie vented to the carbon canistor, IIRC. The reason you don't want to cut out the EGR completely is that it helps control the combustion temperature, and it's been known to burn valves, among other things, when it's disconnected, especially on newer (80s-up) engines that are designed with EGR in mind.

Well, it ran perfectly fine the last time I fired it up a month or so ago, but last weekend I fired it up and tried to move it out of the garage so I could swap the struts out in Jessica's Impreza the darn thing ran like crap. It would idle, for about 10 seconds before it would die, I eventually got it to run someone decently at idle, and with a little bit of throttle. Opening the throttle caused it to fall on it's face, and sputter. it will run if you floor it but only got up to about 2500 RPM or so, and would die if you tried to make it move. Today I checked the fuel pressure and I'm getting 15psi to the rail while cranking, and 20 psi if I just plugged the pressure gauge directly in to the fuel like that goes into the fuel filter. I couldn't get the clamp tight enough on the gauge so it leaked a little bit (Time to replace my cheap Harbor Freight gauge with a Snap-On). The fuel filter was replaced not that long ago mileage wise, but I put it in like 2 years ago. Is friggin angering me since all this car needed was paint and it's ready to sell, now I gotta figure this out :-( If it's not the fuel filter, is there anything else I should check?

My legacy takes a while to warm up, but the Impreza warms up in a few minutes.. It's my truck that takes for friggin ever, but 880lbs of cast iron and 6 gallons of coolant take a while to warm up

Nobody said meth heads were smart!