Hondasucks

I had a brain storm while reading this. Probably not but could be a possibility. It's been real cold lately, and I know metal shrinks when it gets cold... Could it just be all tightened up and since there is no oil in there it's too stuck to turn by hand?

There is a Subaru repair shop down there (Soobaroo Specialties) but I've heard a few bad things from him, another good mechanic down there is John Bloom, I dont' have his number handy but he's Mudrat79 on here, and his email is mudrat79@hotmail.com. You said the radiator felt cool? It's probably clogged, I'm not sure what a NEW radiator would cost, but they usually run ~40-60 from a junkyard, and there are several good ones in Eugene, Pick a Part and B&R Auto Salvage are both offa 99, good yards. I can help you in about a month, I'm from Albany, I'm just here in Wyoming going to school, but I'll be home for Christmas, I could slap a new radiator in it for ya if you dont' find anyone else by then. COULD also be a stuck thermostat, I'd try replacing that first (if you get a Haynes manual for the car and a small set of metric tools, you could replace it, it's not hard) and see if the problem goes away, won't hurt anything to replace it and I think a thermostat is all of about 12 bucks. (I'd go with an OEM one from the dealer..)

I was just going to post "Hey I think Mike has an Impreza tape deck.." Glad to see you recovered your car. Some guy I went to high school with had his Civic stolen, two weeks later they recovered it, stripped of the grapefruit launcher and cold air intake and stereo, and some body panels, sitting in a field next to an identical Civic that was stripped of all the interior and the drive train. At least all they made off with was the stereo.

hmm I might have to get some of this.. my Turbowagon has a faint smoke/mold smell I'd like to get rid of, and the Honduh has a dog/funky smell to it.. yeech...

you really think the idiot at the smog test station will know the difference? lol...

Flashing MIL = Lean Misfire, check your plugs, wires, coil pack, and fuel injectors. Since you say there are no codes, try resetting your computer. Unplug the negative battery cable and leave it off for 30 minutes, plugit back in, drive the car, see if it comes back. Or, try taking it to the dealer and have them clear the codes, maybe the reader you are using isn't working properly, also since OBD2 was not fully implemented until 1996, since yours is a 95, it might not conform to the standard 100% which might be why no codes are showing.

holy fark! At leat he's still alive.. Any idea what happened? If you need to call him or something you can use my phone, I have unlimited long distance at my house here in Laramie.

It's the car designation, it's an FE instead of a GL/DL etc...

hmm.. From what I've read, that thing on the strut tower those lines go to is some sort of boost controller that is used at high altitude (Maybe that is why my turbowagon likes to bounce between 10 and 15 psi at full throttle..) but that is all the Alldata thing we had at school said about it. No clue when it's used or anything...

1977 DL wagon August 2001-sometime in 2002 can't remember the exact month, I think it was august or september.

I had fun drifting corners and pulling off sideways from red lights, and otherwise scaring the crap out of my other half even 0wn3d some kid in a Honduh that thought he would beat me off the line, I didnt' even give it any gas, Just let the clutch out and creeped off and he sat there spinnin 'em it was funny ...not really, but makes a good story (Not really to the honduh part, but I was really drifting corners n stuff )

I have faith, I brought back a car that basically sat for 25 years, she purred like a kitten until the fuel pump puked :-P

so if on it's "maiden voyage" you hit a patch of ice and wreck it, can we call it the TitanRX? lol :-P Sorry couldnt' resist :-P

3500 and my turbowagon is yours Even includes the spare tranny and WRX I/C :-P (No I dont' want to sell it, but 3500 would be nice )

yeah, subies RULE. Good luck @ the new job! And you'll notice Subie parts are cheaper than Honduh parts... Shoot, I can get a whole engine kit for what a head gasket costs for a honduh... lol

Genuine Subaru or LuK seem to work pretty good. You might be able to put a high performance WRX aftermarket clutch in it but I am not 100% sure. Brain tells me it should work but I havent' run the numbers or anything to see, someone else on here prolly knows. I used to have 91 Legacy, it was bad arse, I want another one. (But I am picky, I wanna 5 speed LS wagon). Yeah they are pretty peppy, 137 HP, and RalliTek (http://www.rallitek.com) sells headers, exhausts, and intakes that'll fit the Gen 1 legacy, at least he did when I had mine.

yeah Bill is THE MAN lol gotten me lotsa cool stuff

lets not forget who converted YOU there Mr. Caboobaroo :-P I think it was me, and Erik lol :-P Good job on convertin Adam...

you REALLY need to check the gear contact pattern whenever you mess with a differential. The side shims will set two things: Ring gear depth (How far in or out the ring gear teeth mesh with the pinion gear teeth) and carrier bearing preload. Here is what I would do: Count the # of shims on each side of both sets of caps. Let's say that the 3.90 open caps had 3 shims on one side and 4 on the other, and the LSD caps had 2 on one side and 3 on the other. Now, figure out what thickness all the shims are. Basically, you want to keep the same preload as the bearings on the LSD carrier originally had, BUT you want to keep the same backlash as the 3.90 ring gear had when it was bolted to the open carrier. So you'd want to use the LSD caps, with the same preload (5 shims total) but lets say that the 3.90 caps had 3 shims on the left adn 4 on the right, and the LSD caps had 3 on the left and 2 on the right, you would want to swap sides so that the opposite side has one more shim. Now, you'd use some prussian blue or gear marking dye (YOu can get this from GM) and coat 3-4 teeth, on both sides, in about 3 places around the ring gear. Using a pry bar between the case and the ring gear, rotate the pinion until the ring makes three turns, and then turn it the opposite way. YOu want the part where the dye rubs off to more or less be centered up and down and side to side on the ring gear. If it's not, you'll tear up the gears pretty quickly. (depends on how far off it is, but it doesn't take much.)

That pic of the SVX, looks a lot like Arizona in the background (note the cacti).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru it's also on here, courtesy of ME lol.. Also courtesy of me were some corrections :-P (Like it used to say all GL-10 cars were automatic)

DAmn, I should take off from work a couple of weeks early )

I rolled one over in the junkyard once to get the tranny out? That count? it WAS off road!

Happened to me once on my 84 wagon, turned out that I had vented-rotor calipers and caliper brackets with non-vented rotors. The pads are the same, but the caliper and bracket are physically wider, so the pad gets worn down FINK out it goes..