Hondasucks

HEy, think any of those yards will have Polara parts? I'll be down there this weekend.. I'll email ya Bob Dole lol

And if you can't get it to shut off, Find the wire that goes to the CEL bulb, and wire it into the alternator light, that way it will behave normally (Key on, Engine off = light on, Start engine, light goes off)

I'll be down there sometime with my Dodge.. so when is the JY run??

yeah it's just a Rabbit 4 banger on its side. BUT you MIGHT be able to get one to fit in a subie, since they lay the engine over darn near 60 degrees in those Vanagons!

Yeah Sunday works since Caboobaroo has off that day and I STILL need a headlight for that damn Honda, the headlight I got was offa 4 door sedan, and I have a hatchback.. GRRR at Honda for using different parts on the same bloody body style cars! I swapped some parts around and made the headlight work but it still doesn't fit quite right.... And I'm still in need of Polara interior parts, is that yard with the old school stuff offa 25 and Erie open on Sundays??

I was at the meet, at like 4:30 and everyone had left :-( By the time we got down to Denver, and foudn the yard, they closed at 1 but we went to a yard down the street adn I got the headlight I needed for the Honduh, nothing else though :-(, adn the guy wanted $35 for it so I asked him if he'd take $20, adn he was like "No I'll take $35" so I set the light down on the counter, picked up my tools, and started to walk out, and he was like "hey wait a minute, I guess I can do $20" lol... The yard we were supposed to go to was Colorado Auto and Parts on Radcliff... I think Radcliff muist be Denver Junkyard Heaven cuz there is like 4 yards on that street...

what time did y'all leave? We showed up around 4-4:30, paid the damn $4 entry fee and drove around, NO SOOBS grrrrr

it's the OLD ugly body style hatch so I don't think CRX parts would work (of course now that I think about it they had a CRX that was the same body style.. *Smacks forehead* I guess I'm not super knowledgable with Hondas lol... I'm gonna hit up the Colorado Auto & Parts cuz supposedly they have a bunch of old-school cars so hopefully they might have the parts I need for the Polara

I've been tempted once I get out of school and get a decent welder and a tubing bender, making repro roll bars and push bars for the older soobs I dunno what cost would be, but to you guys it sure as %$*%*$* wouldn't be $315! MAybe like, $315 SHIPPED lol...

Looks like he;'s doing it just to try and raise money to get his dad a new car, since the insurance is stiffing them or something...

Go slap some bills on the counter, show him you have money.. That might do it! (Cash talks and BS walks...)

www.oregonoffroadsubaruclub.com and www.hatchpatrol.com come to mind...

did you line the flywheel up with the 0 mark, or with the center of the three lines? If you had it lined up to the 0 timing mark, that is your problem. Roll the engine over until the pointer lines up with the center of the three lines in the flywheel, and then look @ the cam sprockets. One should be at 12:00 and the other at 6:00, both lined up with either the upper or lower notch in the timing belt cover. Doesn't matter which one is up and which is down, as long as they are not both facing the same direction, since it is the camshaft that dictates what stroke the piston is on.. Also, you might need to re-do the dizzy timing once you re-set the camshaft if that is what is off, since then the dizzy might be off. Re check the cam timing and try and run it, if it runs better then check the ignition timing with a timing light and adjust accordingly.

well Iguess we'll be hitting up the meet AND the junkyards.. I'll be in my truck though, have to deliver some mobile home stairs to Loveland...

I've had a complete Chrysler 383 big block in the back of my Subie, it wasn't all together but all the parts were there. Instant 2" lowering job As for weight, my turbowagon has pulled a Scout with no axles off a flat bed trailer lol, and the owner of said trailer pulled a motorhome up an off ramp with his wagon, don't remember the size of the motorhome though... (I've towed a 25 foot Monaco coach about 35 miles before, but that was with my truck lol...)

New plan -- Junkard run next saturday, gotta go get some stuff from Cheyenne tomorrow :-( And Russ, I'm kinda interested in that 2WD Spider intake... :-P

yep methinks it's toast.. sell it to me :D j/k Ed, I'd check the PCV first, adn do a compression check... hey, when you had it idling, did you have the car level, or was the nose of the car facing downhill? Might have just been enough to make it suck oil past the PCV..

You coudl get a non-turbo GL-10 although they are not very common, and my Turbo wagon is NOT a GL-10, it's a GL. The Turbo option was available on the GL... Actually you could order a GL with all the GL-10 options, I saw one once that had everything the GL-10 had -- air susp, AM/FM cassette, turbo, digidash, sunroof, etc.. BUT it didn't have the GL-10 interior...

From what I understand, if the transfer clutch solenoid receives 12V it RELEASES pressure from the clutch packs (what the FWD fuse does, and this is opposite the 4WD clutch in the older pushbutton autos, they engage when power is applied) and by controlling the duty cycle, it can regulate how much torque goes to the rear wheels. So if the solenoid goes bad, or otherwise it loses power, it engages the rear wheels as a 100% F/R lock, just like if you've put a M/T car in 4WD. (I'm sure those plates will slip if enough torque is applied..). if they slipped long enough under pressure, the coating would wear off the plates, and generate enough heat to weld the plates together, which is one of the causes of torque bind (Like if the car is towed with only the front or rear wheels off the ground) I've heard something about there beign steel sealing rings in the transfer assembly that ride in an aluminum housing (On the early models, they've since changed it, and the recall fix is installing a steel sleeve) and eventually leak, causing torque bind, but I don't know the details.

Try some PB Blaster or something like that, the splines are probably rusted on. You could also try heating the joint with a torch, but you will probably cook the axle seals in the diff and the axle boot and grease in the process...

it's an 87 Civic Si hatchback. Gotta put the new timing belt and tensioner on today, but the body panels will be the difference between getting $500 for the car and closer to $1000 for it. (And the more I get the better, since it's going to be paying for the rest of the machine work for the Polara engine lol) MAybe we could meet up and do a run together? I'm gonna most likely roll my wagon down there, unless I get a response from the nationwide parts search on Polara parts in Colorado (PRobably won't fit too many of those in the Turbowagon lol) then I'll prolly bring my truck, but at $3.06 for diesel here I think I'd rather bring the wagon lol My # is 541 990 8697

And just for the record: Front spline counts: All non turbo manual trannies, EA series - 23 spline All 3 speed automatics, turbo and non turbo - 23 spline All 4 speed automatics - 25 spline (I think this is for both turbo AND non turbo but not 100% sure) All turbo manuals - 25 spline (I'm not sure, but I THINK the FWD turbos are 23 spline but I could be wrong, please correct me if I am!) EJ series cars and XT6s all are 25 spline.

I'm in Laramie, not too far from Denver... So hey what are the prices like @ the pull-n-save? I need some parts for a *ahem* Honda that I need to sell lol but it has a crunched hood, it's missing the plastic front end thingie (That funky lookin nose thing that goes aroudn the headlights), and a driver's side headlight and tail light. Might be headed to Cheyenne this weekend but maybe if I can make a parts run out of it we'll go to Denver... Anyone know their hours, or if they are open on Sundays?

yeah shortening axles isn't all that hard.. If I'm not mistaken, Toyota rear axles are a drop-out third member (Like a Ford 9" or Chrysler 8 3/4"), and there are enough 'Yota folks out there I'm sure there are the shortening jigs out there to shorten a Toyota axle.. I don't know about the axle shafts themselves, I've never seen one. If the axle shaft itself is smaller than the splines, then a custom shaft will have to be made, but if the shaft is the same size or bigger than the splines area, it can simply be cut and new splines pressed in (Don't get them cut in, it's weaker).

turns out it was the bulbs! This morning I plugged in one of the old bulbs, worked fine, so I pulled the rice blue bulbs out and put the old ones in. Funny thing is, they weren't the super-cheap bulbs that are really obviously blue light, these looked like relatively expensive bulbs, but they were free (but they appeared unused) oh well, I'm gonna drag out the ohmmeter and test 'em just to make sure it's the bulb buut I'm pretty sure it is.... Oh well, better to have free crap bulbs than expensive crap bulbs...