Hondasucks

I go off to oregon for a week, come back and the low beams are dead on the turbowagon, had to drive to school today with the brights on and hope I didnt' get pulled over... Any ideas?? The bulbs are brand new so it shouldnt' be those, but I'll try swapping in the old ones that worked fine and see if that works...

You could also have a plugged drain hose, if you lower the headliner you can get to the hose itself, or retract the sunroof and look for a small hole in each corner. An air compressor with a blow nozzle with a rubber tip should blow any crud that's accumulated in the lines, if that is the problem.

wow that is an old post :-P I didn't bother buying a connector since I didn't see the need to spend 15 bucks to use 3 wires lol. And I was smart nd I left the old connector in there and just Teed into the wires I needed so that if I ever decide to sell the car, I can just slap a stock stereo back in there (Since I stil have the stock deck!)

Big block chevy BLECH! big block MOPAR lol *shrugs* nitrous?

hey Jon I'm in town for the week, hit me up 541 990 8697, if you can make it, we're havin a BBQ @ my house on Wednesday in the afternoon. As for the car, yeah Tom's method is abotu right, the "right" way is to use a CO meter but turnng it in until it stumbles, then out until it stumbles, then back in to the middle of the no-stumble range is what I've always been told.

tha's cuz as long as its still sending a valid signal, even if it's erraneous, as long as it's in the range of what it should be, it typically will not throw a code. This was long before there was a component monitor in the ECU that would take th readings from the sensors and compare them with readings from other sensors to make sure they all make sense. (for example, if the MAF is reading a good healthy flow of air but the TPS reads closed and the RPM is at idle, your computer might not think twice about it, but a newer car would know that something doesn't add up and it would throw a code). You MIGHT want to try swapping out the ignitor module, it's the big square box that's bolted to the firewall, more or less where the spare tire mount would be on an EA82 car. (Well, it's not BIG, about 2" by 3"). Would be interesting to hook a scope up and monitor the injector pulse width and the spark signal, see if either one of those pukes when the car dies. Too bad these cars don't store a "Freeze frame" like OBD2 does, those can come in handy. (Basically the ECU stores a "snapshot" of most of the sensor readings, vehicle speed, etc... when a code is flagged)

That's there mainly cuz Reagan wanted to switch us over to the metric system, that's why a lot of 80s cars had km/h on the speedo as well as MPH but then in the later 80s it kinda died out since they knew most ppl didn't want to switch to the metric system.

our old Schwan's man told me about someone on his route who was given like an 88 GL-10, non turbo, that belonged to an old lady and it had like 25k on it I wanted it soooo bad lol

http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/ get ahold of McIntosh, they should be able to at least find you a service center, I'm not sure if McIntosh stuff has a lifetime warranty or not... I know that a McIntosh head unit is about 800 bucks lol maybe more, saw one used on ebay buy it now for $725 but if you decide not to have it fixed and just change to a different head unit, I'll take it off yer hands

I used to have a 91, rallitek.com has body kits for the gen2 legacies, and you MIGHT be able to get oen to fit, I did read about someone who piut a 2.5RS front bumper on a gen1 legacy, I think you have to shorten it but I can't remember... it looked pretty dang sick though! I think the pics are on http://www.legacycentral.org

As far as parts go, I've got an EJ18 that needs a piston, a set of EJ18 heads (need two exhaust valves), and an alternator and an AC compresssor for an EJ motor. Don't have any EA parts except a set of 4 85 turbo sedan doors with power windows and mirrors. I got 'em for my turbowagon but I really need 86-up doors lol

I guess I better post my bogging pic... No I didn't get stuck! But my next time through I stalled the engine and got water in the carb, muddy water.. Didn't quite run right after that :-(

I'm running an EA82 flywheel with an XT6 clutch, but only because I could not locate an XT6 flywheel, aside from $250 from the dealer lol. It does chatter on engagement unless you get the Rs just right, but other than that, no problems.

I'll try to make it, we usually go to Loveland to the Habitat for Humanity thrift store every now and again, so we should be able to head down there and hang out with some folks :-) I'll prolly bring my 87 turbowagon, gets better mileage than my truck, and it wouldn't make sense to show up to a Subaru meet in a Dodge anyway :-P (Although I did show up to WCSS3 in a Mercury...)

You can also get a Miller cycle engine in a Mazda Millenia, but I'm not sure of the years. It uses a supercharger though instead of a turbocharger (Miller cycle requires use of forced induction, and when the piston is coming back up with the intake valve still open, the pressure of the incoming air charge will press against the charge in the cylinder, so less air comes back out than one might expect. I suppose that with the use of a turbocharger, they probably use some sort of variable valve timing on the intake cam to advance the cam timing at idle and off boost, otherwise you'd lose quite a chunk of your charge. There is a good article on Wikipedia and on howstuffworks.com on the Miller cycle.

If the driver's side timing belt is loose, it will make the timing jump around, but I'd think that if it was loose enough to make it buck and backfire, it would have broken or jumped time by then. My 87 hatchback did this sorta, it would run fine until it got about to about 4500 RPM then it would start to spit and sputter, and the point at which it started to cut out slowly got lower and lower, replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and didn't have any more problems. Another thing that could be it is the ignition coil, it takes more energy to fire the spark at higher RPM, plus under a richer mixture (when you stomp on it) so that might be it too. Accel Super Stock coils work great in soobs, run about $35 or so...

You could always go get one of those "redneck garage" things from Harbor Frieght, I think it's like 150-200 for a canopy type thing, or just one of those 10x10 folding dining fly things, they are only like 40 bucks, and they work great for working in the sun/rain with no garage.

yeah, and on top of that, yours runs

So did every subaru have one of these? Kinda weird that in all my junkyard digging, and all the Subarus I've owned, I have NEVER seen one..., not even my 83 GL-10 that I bought from the 2nd owner!

Check the light itself, Not sure about yours, but mine has a switch, one position leaves the light off, one leaves it on, and the third makes it coem on when you open the door.

yeah that Rabbit was pretty slow. I remember reading the tuneup data and the upper limit on the injector pump was supposed to be like 5900 RPM or something like that, it was a 1.6 liter, some of the older rabbits were a 1.5!, had like 53 HP but it had like 96 ft-lb of torque! I spanked some kid in a Civic off the line in it, and then I was bragging about it in a parkign lot and he comes up to me and was like 'You didn't beat me, I wasn't racing" I was like "Gee, then why were you hammering through the gears?"

Happened to me in my 87 hatchback, after large zip ties and bailing wire both failed, I welded it at school when I made the brackets to put the EA82 seats in my 87 hatch.

it will physically fit, however if it is a single DIN rather than the "DIN and a half" that the stock 90-94 legacy radios were (If it had a tape deck, if it was a radio only, it is a single DIN) you will need to get the storage compartment out of a Legacy with the single DIN radio otherwise you will have a gap between the compartment and the stereo. I am not sure on the plugs, but they are probably different. Scosche (sp?) sells OEM harness adaptors, plus they have "reverse adaptors" that will plug into an OEM deck and give you wires to tap into, if you got the reverse adaptor for the 98/99 and the standard adaptor for the 94, you could wire the two together, and just "plug and play" http://www.scosche.com lists a "SU03RB" as being a "93+ select Subaru" OEM reverse harness go here and compare your harness: http://www.scosche.com/scosche_caraudio.aspx?CategoryID=44&ItemID=SU03RB It shows this as 89-93 Justy and 91+ LEgacy http://www.scosche.com/scosche_caraudio.aspx?CategoryID=78&ItemID=SU02B and this one for 93-up select Subaru http://www.scosche.com/scosche_caraudio.aspx?CategoryID=78&ItemID=SU03B

I'd be down for it, I'm in Wyoming but I'm close enough to Colorado lol

and accordign to the controller, it's a Remoto Control