Hondasucks

aight cool, thanks Brian!

Do you still hve the videos of you and I out playing in the mud that one time in my red sedan? I know I saved it but I can't find it and I'd like to show it off to some ppl @ school.. (Anyoone else with some good videos, feel free to post a link )

The big question is, is the immobilizer built into the computer? or is it a separate box, if it's a separate box, then you just have to figure out what sort of a "pass" signal it sends to the computer... If it's in the computer, you could possibly find a computer that doesn't have the immobilizer (I don't think the US models do...)

Aww, cmon, don't be like everyone else and stuff a small block chevy in something. At least use a small block Chrysler, or a twin turbo SVX engine, but small block Chevy? Be original :-P

I'm not sure about the Immobilizer in a Subaru, is this one of those things with the key with the chip in it? I know the older GM system (I forget the name for it) was nothing more than a certain value of resistor in the ignition key, if this resistor didn't match the value of the resistor in the computer, it would shut the fuel off after 2 seconds. There are boxes available that more or less just go through all the possible values, for people doing engine swaps and such, but I think on the GM system it gives you 3 or 5 tries and then it locks the system out for 15 minutes or something like that, so guess-and-check could take a while.

annnnd I'll be here in the lovely state of Wyoming where NOBODY knows what rally cross is.. One guy asked me if me "Oregon Rally Group" sticker was some sort of drift club... I MIGHT be able to make the one on the 25th I'm not sure when my break starts... Do they still have the Truck/SUV class? If so look for a white and silver Dodge

Thank you very much Caleb! exactly what I was looking for!

yeah, an air bag module goes for like 500-1500 bucks from the dealer, so you should be able to get sumpin decent for it on ebay..

Take it back to them and make 'em fix it, if they put it on and it's messed up they are liable to fix it. Nice thing about Les Scwab is that they definately do stand behind what they sell (And if your local store doesnt, call the Corporate Office in Prineville..)

Try replacing the thermostat with an OEM thermostat, always a good thing to change whenever you change the coolant anyway.. (Although that is probably not it since a stuck Tstat will cause overheating..) Also, having too much coolant in the bottle will make it spew since once the bottle can't hold anymore it will spill out on the ground. I'm only about an hour and a half north of you, maybe one of these times when I'm down in Loveland or whatever (we frequent the Habitat for Humanity thrift store there, but I usually take my truck since the last time we took the wagon Jessica stuffed a couch in there! But the truck is easy to spot since it has a "ultimatesubaru.org" sticker in the back window of the canopy BIIG noisy white and silver Dodge... can't miss it) we can get together or something. My subie is currenty down with a case of expired tags lol...

I've been tempted to swap the rear out with a 19mm, and then put the 20mm back in and swap the front wiht a 19mm and see what makes a diff. in handling. I know a stiffer sway bar on one end will make it oversteer more, where a stiffer bar on the other end makes it understeer more but I can't remember which.. Gotta dig out my Wyotech suspension lecture Btw, the turbowagon Russ mentioned is mine and I think part of the reason it seems like it handles on rails is that now I have 20mm bars front and rear, where before it only had the stock 16mm or 18mm (What did GL turbo wagons come with??) in the front, and NO bar in the rear...

I'd change all the fluids, sitting does wonders for making oil and whatnot collect all sorts of gunk, so I'd change all the fluids if I were you. (Even the oil, unless you know how long it's sat since he changed it..) Also, depending on how much fuel was in it when it sat, if it's less than 1/4 tank, fill it with a good quality gas, but if it's got much more than 1/2 tank, you might want to drain some or all of it out and use it in a lawnmower or something, or if it does run but just runs rough, burn that fuel off and then fill the car with good clean fuel. A bottle of Techron in the tank and a can of Seafoam poured down the carb slowly (with it running @ about 3,000 RPM) should clean out any accumulated gunk...

Should be some bolts attached through the back of the steering wheel, probably need a stubby screwdriver (Don'yt know what head, I know GM likes to use Torx on some of their air bags..) but it should be bolted on from the back.. PRolly 3 or 4 of them, just look behind the wheel for some holes.. Once you get that mutha out you can do one of two things: 1) Stick it face up in a tire and connect a 9 volt battery (FROM A DISTANCE!) to the connector on the back and watch it go boom. Be glad you weren't in the car when it went off. Drink a beer. 2) Sell it on ebay 3) If it's already gone off, the bags are quite sturdy and work great for carying parts, etc.. once you get the white powder off..

hey if you can get A/C certification, the Firestone dealer in Missoula needs a tech, and after the end of September, go down there and look for Harold Lillie, he's my instructor in Chassis Fab right now but at the end of this term he's moving to Missoula (Winters here are too wicked for his wife's health) He's a real nice guy, he feeds ya well when you help him out too :-D Keep in touch man.. 541 990 8697 971 732 5010

Another good thing for cleaning off corrosion is a fiberglass brush. If you can't find one, go to any electronics store (Radio shack MIGHT have them but they probably have to order it) and get an "alignment screwdriver", they are typically about 12" long and have a fiberglass shaft. Cut the very end off the shaft, and then heat it with a burner, this will melt the glue away and leave you with a fiberglass brush. They work GREAT for cleaning small rusty parts, corrosion, etc..

Title pretty much says it all, anyone got any? If nobody has pics of one installed with a stock intake, I can make do with pics of one with a spider, since what i'm mainly concerned with is the turbo-to-I/C piping.. Thanks! (There isnt' a plumbing place near here so guess-and-test doesn't quite work since it's 40 miles to Home Depot...)

Rather than weld sheet metal over the front of the bed, Just cut it off at the cab, and roll the top over to avoid a sharp edge, much easier than trying to get a piece of sheet metal that size to stay stable (Unless you have access to a bead roller) and IMHO the stock bed wall would look better Killer idea though! I was going to do the same thing with my old 84 wagon but mom made me get rid of it :-(

Try manual first gear, if it slips there, it is the low/reverse band or clutch (Must use manual first, since in drive first it uses a one-way clutch instead of a band for first gear) if it does not slip there but slips in third gear, then it is the high-reverse band/clutch (I say band or clutch since some transmissions use a multifriction clutch and others use a band. If I remember correctly, at least on the three speed, the low/reverse is a band and the intermediate is a multi-friction clutch.)

With my Lincoln buzz box, I'd usually run it at about A-B on the voltage and like 3 or 4 on the wire feed, I'm not sure what gauge metal Subies use but there is a guide on the side cover (at least on Lincoln MIG welders). They do recommend that during any welding operation, especially on a vehicle and ESPECIALLY on one with a computer, put the ground clamp as close to the weld as possible (Dont' want the arc jumping door hinges, bearings, etc..) and disconnect the battery and unplug the computer. It's not TOO much of a big deal with mig welding since it's DC, but getting all your electronics unplugged when TIG welding is a must, especially if you are using AC (But even if you are on DC, a lot of TIG welders will use a high frequency voltage to start the arc)

I think it also comes from the fact that a lot of Ford transmissions (Namely the E4OD) had weak overdrive bands, so by leaving it in D instead of OD when you are around town, it minimized the amount of time that the overdrive band was used. My ex ALWAYS turned her OD off in her car, and she'd always get mad at her mom cuz when her mom would drive her car she wouldn't take it out of overdrive lol...

Cedar Rapids... you know a guy named Zach Wilford, or a Guy Cole? Went to school with Zach, and Guy is my friend Joe's dad... Just curious as they're both from Cedar Rapids. (Zach is easy to spot, his poor wite S10 is more rust than paint!

I'll be dere.. Andrew needs LSD and yes I'll brign some beer :-) (PBR so Russ doesn't drink it all! lol j/k bro)

Try unplugging the smal wire, and jumpering the S terminal to the B+ terminal with a screwdriver, if it turns over, the problem is not the starter. I'd suspect corrosion on the solenoid terminal, possibly..

If you are electrically inclined, or at least know basic wiring, go to wal mart or whatever and get some connectors, some wire, and a toggle switch, wire this into the wires in the HVAC control unit on the dash (The thing with the buttons..) that control the AC compressor. This way YOU control when the compressor comes on, which will enable you to use the "AC" posistion as a fan-forced vent posistion, without the AC compressor coming on.

If I could FIND one of those, I'd have one in my car! Veggie Roo