Hondasucks

A much safer method is to put the car in gear, wedge the breaker bar against the frame, and shove the car forward (If the breaker bar turns the wrong way, you might have to put it in reverse.. ) This is how I got the crank bolt off on my Turbowagon when I replaced the water pump, since the parking brake wouldn't hold it and I couldn't find anyone to mash the brake pedal for me :-)

Look on the front of the block for two letters and two numbers enclosed in a square. will be something like EA81, EA82, EJ20, EJ22, etc.. It's usually, when standing in front of the car, on the left hand side of the block, kinda by where the block stops and the head begins. That number you posted sounds to me like the engine's serial number. (The one on my wagon is 8111111 or something like that...)

I need some pics of a WRX top mount on an EA82 with a standard intake (As I won't be getting my spider until the end of the phase when I can go yank it off the comp car @ school..)

don't forget http://www.smallcar.com, home of the SVX 5 speed conversion, and the EG33 Vanagon conversion (If a Vanagon can damn near hop the front tires off the ground with a 3,000 RPM launch with 90 HP... I wonder what one could do with 230?? Damn you Jason for not selling me your vanagon! lol j/k bro :-P

so an Imprezza, is that like a Forrester? sorry had to poke fun (At least you spelled Subaru right (lol not Suburu or Suberu lol) but yes Imps are fun, just don't get the 1.8L engine unless you get a manual, the automatics are BEYOND GUTLESS (especially up here at 7200 feet..)

I think I need to make a quad-cab dually Brat when I get my shop going.. That would be S I C K! lol Put one of the little Cummins like 25 HP three cylinder diesel engines in it :-P

I'm not sure, I haven't seen Laura on the board since probably March, and Caboobaroo used to talk to her on AIM and he says he hasn't heard from her since March or so as well. I sure hope she's okay. I've even drivin through Berthoud a couple of times on my way to Denver, but no sign of her or any of her soobs :-( And there's nothing wrong with American tanks I have a convertible tank :-)

This is true in standard RWD vehicles where the front brakes and rear brakes are separate, but on a Subaru and most other FWD cars, the brake circuits are diagonal, so if one fails you always have at least one front brake that works. Bleeding on a Subaru is as follows: Passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front. Sometimes you have to bleed the MC first. easy if it has bleeder screws, but if it doesn't you can either bench bleed it or just loosen the lines (start with the one closest ot the front of the car) and have someone push and hold the brake pedal, then close the line, do this until no more air comes out. If the brakes won't bleed, you probably have air in the master cylinder. And you think the Subaru is tough, try bleeding brakes on a 68 Polara with all wheel drums that's been sitting for basically 25 years without breaking any of the bleeder screws... lol

I think the MAIN reason for having locking hubs is for economy. Take my 92 Dodge for example, driving back and forth to school I get 12.6MPG, but if I lock the hubs I get 11.7. Says in the manual to unlock the hubs when not in 4WD for better economy, but in bad weather leaving them locked is okay. I usually just leave them locked if the weather is going to be bad, since I'd rather just reach down and slap it into 4WD without having to get out in the blowing snow to lock the hubs. I think that since our soobs are so light, that having locking hubs, even automatic ones, wouldn't save much in fuel mileage so they decided not to do it.. But look at like older Cherokees, most of those didn't have hubs either... That and what's cheaper - a locking hub or just a splined axle with no hub at all.

Smog Nazis... the main reason why I will never live in Calli again.. Hey Brian when are ya gonna move your arse to Oregon? (Nice thing about Wyoming, is that 1) there is killer wheeling and 2) nobody gives a %*%*$* about smog crap!)

I was told that diesel oil works fine in a gas engine, but you don't want to put gas engine oil into a diesel engine. If the diesel oil says API service Cx but doesn't have an API service Sx on there, I wouldn't use it, but if it has both a C and an S service rating, then it will be fine (C = Compression Ignition, S = Spark Ignition) BUT make sure the Sx is what your car takes, but remember that it is superlative, meaning if you car takes, say API service SD, than you can run anything with an SD rating or higher, but not lower.

poor subie :-( Some rednecks should not b allowed to own Subarus :-P

Jack up the rear of the car so both rear wheels are off the ground and set it on jack stands. Spin the wheel, and then turn the adjuster screw in one quarter turn (just turn it like it's a screw you are tightening) and spin the wheel again. Repeat this until the wheel locks solid (Make sure you turn it the full quarter turn, the adjuster has detents in it, and you have to be in the detent for it to hold the adjustment, you won't feel them until you start getting it tighter though, but when you start to get it tight it will lock the wheel, but then it won't lock once it gets into the detent, you want it to lock when it's in the detent). Once the wheel locks, turn the adjuster BACK two clicks, or one half turn. Repeat on the other side, and it's adjusted. To turn the adjuster you can either use a small adjustable wrench, or you can get a 1/4" square socket from Sears. I've also used a 1/4" drive socket with the appropriate size allen wrench in the bolt side of the socket. Also, when you did the rear brakes, did you lubricate the flat spots where the brake shoes ride on the backing plate? If not, take it apart and use some Siliglide or other silicone lubricant on the flat spots on the backing plate, after you clean all the old grease and brake dust off with some brake cleaner. (It will be apparent where to grease once you clean it off since 99% of the time the paint is worn off in these spots)

almost sounds like a cracked flexplate, but you don;t have a flexplate... (Cuz those will mimic a rod knock, but go away when you back out of it...) Don't worry though, nice thing about soobs is if the flywheel lets go, it takes out your hood, but doesn't come shooting out of the floor like it does on some other cars. (Happened to one of my instructor's friends, he had a Camaro with the 302, and had the clutch in and the flywheel let go, took off both pedals, part of his foot, and exited thorought the side/roof of the car, nearly cut it in half..)

hrrm.. I think I found my first project when I get my shop up and running...

I usually go to Advance Auto Parts here, they're very friendly plus I get 10% off over 20 bucks.. And usualyl if they dont' have the part, Checker does and I'll get it from there (I think they must be in cahoots with each other since advance and checker both use partsamerica.com for their online ordering, and it will even show you what stores in your area carry the parts you want, kinda nice..)

the front wheels need to be able to turn, at least that's what the screw-haul guy told me last time I rented a dolly (I prefer the trailers..)

Thanks everyone for makin it possible, even if I didn't make it this year, I will be there next year though!!!! Matt you better come down again with more crab!

Donny ya better come over and visit me for a lil before ya go to SLC, I gotta fridge fulla beer...

Make sure you tell us which wal mart so we know which one NOT to go buy acetone from

there's a guy in my class at Wyotech that lives in Yakima, drives a little black Datsun 310... I forget what street he lives on , I think it has a tree name but I'm not sure..

I ALMOST had one, they day before I went to the boneyard to pick it up the bon of a snitch crushed it (Man WTF happened to the peed off smiley that would blow smoke out his ears?).. By the way, I was born in Roseville in 1982, in the Roseville Hospital (It's now part of Sierra College I think..) and my uncle still lives there, by Kaseberg park.

they weren't ever sold here so they don't have all the stupid safety/emissions crap.. Stupid US automakers, hafta push the government to make all these dumb laws so that all the cars that would blow the US stuff out of the water, can't be imported :-(

well, if I get a crate Hemi for my Polara, I'll have a 383 with big-valve 440 heads and a 4 barrel would go nice in something small and light... Dunno about a Subaru, but I know if I were to put a burly V8 in a Soob it'd be a MOPAR... Everybody puts small block chevies in crap....

yeah she'd come with me, and our mutt Scooter.. dont' worry, only thing he does with other dogs is sniff lol.. might be a good weekend trip lol.. wow it's closer than I thought, 670 miles, something like that.. 10 hours estimated driving time.. Where at in SD are you guys??