Hondasucks

Got the 93 Impreza going, but the front windows have issues. The driver's window has a scratch about 1/2" wide that runs from the top to the bottom of the window, in the middle (It looks like a hazy streak but when you look close at it, it's several scratches) and the passenger window has the same thing, only at the top. I'm guessing it's one of the guide rollers, but I don't know where I'd get one aside from a junkyard, and I'd be afraid of them having the same problem... Any ideas?

One of those switches on the strut tower is for the boost light, and it also triggers the ECU to ignore the 02 sensor while under boost, so I'd think it might lean out or otherwise not run right under boost if you don't have that oen hooked up, but I don't remember what the other ones are for, and yours doesn't have the EBC, cuz you don't have the "hockey puck" on the strut tower like I do, and I am not sure but I think that the boost controller hooks up to the line that runs from the wastegate to the compressor side of the turbo.

Don't re-use the old O rings, if you have the system apart, replace them with R-134a compatible O-rings, they are not that expensive, and if they've been on there a while they have probably flattened out anyway, so the $5 or so it'd run ya for a set of O rings is worth it. Also, the PAG oil is not compatible wiht mineral oil, however the mineral oil will coat the inside of the refirgerant lines, which will help keep the R-134a in the system. I've never used Esther oil, I used PAG when I converted my Legacy over to R-134a. You can switch to an R-134a compressor if you have one, but it's not needed... You can get a "retrofit kit" that has refrigerant, fittings, and the thing to charge it for relatively cheap ($40-50) at most auto parts stores, but you need to remove ALL the R-12 and pull a vacuum on the system before you attempt to put it in, because if you mix the two it's considered hazardous waste, and you'd have to pay $400 or so to have it disposed of :-) Also stay away from the bootleg/black market R-12, especially the stuff from Mexico, since most of it is a mixture of R-12, R-22, and Butane (which is FLAMMABLE) and are not approved by the EPA so are not only considered hazardous waste, are also illegal to sell or use in the US... (Although I have heard of people charging A/C systems with propane, which apparently works better than R-12, you better not have a leak :-P) I'd also recommend against using compressed air to blow out the lines, just flush them with the proper flush agent (There is some stuff they make for flushing transmission coolers that comes in a spray can, I wonder if that would work???) as compressed air contains oil and moisture and other crap you don't want in your A/C system. Black goo ususally means the compressor has gone south, sending aluminum filings through the system (Called "Black Death" by most techs) which requires flushing the entire system, as those filings will destroy the new compressor!

put an ad in the paper lol "IF anyone got struck or almost struck by a Subaru wheel in Co. Springs, please call me I need it back" or something :-P What kinda wagon is it? I might be able to get ya parts...

Our RX was the RX-II in other markets, since they had an EA81 RX, but it wasn't turbo (Dual carbs) and I think there was an EA71 RX as well, also with dual carbs. Mazda RX-2s are pretty kewl though...

I thought it was the seat belt timer? I took mine out and my "fasten belts" light no longer works (I'm smart enough to wear mine so I dont' need the stupid light to remind me )

Just curious, the 93s came in a 25th anniversary package, so why is the 99 the 30th anniversary, when it's 6 years later, shouldn't that be 98??? :confused:

Should get one that says "Tweekers suck" or something to that effect.. I F*$*$*KING HATE tweekers! They're prolly the only group of ppl that I can say I hate, wish I could round 'em all up and ship 'em off to Mars or something, then they wouldn't be aroudn here running around stealing stuff to buy more tweek..... Nice ride though Wish my Subie was that big...

Here's my take on the whole thing. Being a Christian, I beleive that God created the Universe and everythign in it, like it says in the Bible. However. since God wanted us to be able to choose what we wanted to believe, He couldn't make it blatantly obvious that everything was just BAM created, since He wants us to believe in Him based on our faith, the fact we AREN'T totally sure He is there but we believe in Him anyway. God is also not bound by time, so what is given in the Bible as taking seven days, could have been thousands of years, since what is a day to God? We don't know! I meam, God could have made everything blatantly obvious, but where would the fun be in that? Kinda like Pandora's box ya know...

The show officially starts at 9 and goes until 2 but I doubt anyone would object to early birds lol.

The annual WyoTech car show is coming up, it's Saturday, May 21st 2005 at west campus, 1889 Venture Dr in Laramie. Open to all, there are no entry fees or forms or anything, just show up and park basically. A guy I go to school with is bringin his soob, so I'm bringin mine and my GF is bringin hers, and I think Harpua is going ot be there with his, so if any of y'all can make it that'd be cool, have a Subie Clan To get there, take the Snowy Range Rd exit off of I-80 (Exit 311 if my memory serves me) Hang a left if you're coming from the east, or a right if you're coming from the west, and then you want to hang a left at the gas station (It's right across from the Sinclair station, and it's the next street after the on ramp for I-80E, called Adams St, go down that about 1/2 mile until you see BioLife Plasma Services on the right, the street there is Venture Drive, hang a left, go down that street and hang a right into the second driveway, go down through that parking lot and hang a left and go around the back of the building, and the car show is in the back parking lot. If ya need directions look it up on mapquest or yahoo maps http://www.mapquest.com/ http://maps.yahoo.com/ If you're coming up 287 from Fort Collins, just take the freeway towards Rawlins and it's the next exit. I think that it starts at 9:00am and goes to like 2 or so but I can't remember, I'll check the board at school on Monday and I'll post a follow-up when I find out :-)

Thats the guy who stuffed the ER27 into an EA82 wagon right?

I had my 77 to 90 once, but I never drove it all that far, farthest I drove it was like a nice 200 mile or so round trip up to the mountains and back :-(

cuz they're cheap, and Hondas are fairly reliable cars that are good on gas UNTIL you start building the $*$*#& out of the motor then the reliability and gas mileage go down the drain But it's okay, the ricers can go snatch up all the Civics they want and leave the Soobs to us

well, to the untrained person, the engine does kinda look like it's sideways lol They had this book at the library in Corvallis, but it was always checked out when I went in :-(

I had similar problems with my 83 GL-10, I just sprayed the linkage off with some carb cleaner (Ended up having to take the choke housing off as well) and then I sprayed it with some silicone lubricant and it all worked just fine after that :-) I believe there is a spring and/or a vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke and the fast idle off as the car warms up, perhaps the spring is broken for the fast idle and it's making it stick at the fast idle??? With the engine cold, you should be able to open the throttle and close it again and the choke should shut, and the throttle should stick in the "fast idle" posistion, identifiable by the fact that the idle stop will be spaced off of the idle adjustment screw. (Also, with the car warmed up, or with it cold prior to setting the choke (flooring accelerator and releasing), the idle stop should rest against the idle ajustment screw. If it doesn't, your problem is with the fast idle system. Since you mention that the idle does drop from 2,000 to 1,500 RPM, check to see if the screw is agains the stop after the idle drops, if so, turn the screw out to adjust the idle back down to where it should be (800 RPM in neutral for a manual, or 700RPM in drive for an auto, +/- 100RPM). You should also check your base timing with the engine warm, if it's too far advanced it will make the idle high, should be 8° BTDC @ 800 RPM with the vacuum advance unplugged. If it reads 10 or so at 1500 it's probably okay, but if it reads 15° or more try retarding the timing. Hope this helps :-) Oh, if anyone is wondering how I got the ° symbol, hold down the ALT key and enter 0176 on the number pad :-)

if the spring is a progressive spring (Coils are spaced farther apart on one end than on the other) it will make it stiffer, but not a whole lot stiffer, I don't know if it'd be enough to notice unless you cut a few coils off...

might try an air chisel or a blue flame wrench if you have access to one, Heat up the axle, idea is to make it expand, crushing the rust or whatever is holding it where it's at (by axle I mean the stub, but you could also try heating the housing, as when it expands it will likely break free whatever is holding it in place..

yeah my car was pimp, until some %*$*$#%* ran me off the road grrrr.. I still have the hood though it's on my 4x4

hell yeah dude, I remember seeing that pic on your old rump roast web page like back before I found the board! Here's my first subie:

heck yeah I should bring the Dodge.. Day before my birthday too:banana:

I would have one fi the stupid junkyard in Scio hadn't crushed it the day before I came out there to get it, and the F***CKER KNEW I WANTED IT grrrrrr

That 5.8 could be without a filter change? My truck is supposed to take 12, but if you put 12 in it, it burns off that quart, but if you put 11 in it is fine, and according to what I've heard it's very common on the older Cummins engines...

I already gotta EJ18, $350 from the bonyard out of a way newer car with only 73 k on the odo

They're actually not too bad, I felt in there with my hand and I didnt' feel too many scores, you could probably hone/bore/sleeve the block and it would be usable. My theory is that it might have failed as the piston was on it's way up, which would explain the way the valves are broken. Funny thing is, is how mauled the piston is, almost like the engine turned over several times before it locked up solid. (The girl said that it just died suddenly, which is why I originally thought it was a timing belt). My theory is on the oil pain is that it crushed/restricted the oil pickup tube, and the piston was the first thing to succumb to lack of oil pressure... (Although the valve train looks fine, which is weird.. I dunno, I'll know more when I tear into it...)