Hondasucks

man, too bad I don't have the Vanagon anymore

he sent me some pics of it in the mud, but it was nothing too impressive (Nothing a stock rig couldn't handle, or at least a 3 inch lift). I'll put 'em in my gallery...

I did a just fine job on the wiring, held up to street driving just fine, but I never intended to go WHEELING in it so I didn't use shrink wrap, just electrical tape. I think that the wiring that caught fire was probably the connector under the dash that had the ground spliced around the connector where it had burnt out of the connector, and that same connector used to get hot after a couple of hours of driving... (was like that when I bought the car)

. Since you did not authorize them to change the diff fluid, you can legally make them undo the work you did not authorize, without payment, with the Amsoil :-) Just learned about this stuff in class, and if ya don't believe me, or they don't buy it, I'm sure a lawyer could tell them otherwise :-)

it's not pink, it's tan, just looks that way in the picture.

my 83 GL-10 found it's way on ebay, although it has a few extras (And it's missing all my stickers, and whoever took them off did a poopy job of it!) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4522822779&category=6467 and if anyone doesn't remember it, or doesn't believe me, look here http://usmb.net/gallery/album105/83GL_10_1?full=1 and compare the license plates :-) (YPV 586) *sniffle* AND the %*%*@* took out the digital dash that I spent God knows how long trying to find

You might be able to trade the pedal box for an EA81 pedal box.....

7-21-2003! This post is from when we were still on EZBoard!

Buddy of mine found this on pavementsucks.com is this anyone here? http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=54281 scroll down to the bottom of the column of pics, it's at the bottom of the column, white brat with a snap on tonneau cover and a black stripe on the hood.

yeah yeah yeah so I got the Legacy stuck, but hey, it was a lot easier to un-stick that than it would ahve been to unstick my Dodge

considering I've done a TAURUS on a garage floor with no lift, I don't think an AWD Soobie tranny will be too hard :-) The older ones it's almost easier to pull the motor, and lift the trans out that way

that is funny... poor soobie.... :-(

I'll third that, Richie knows his shizzle!

If you see a big white and silver Dodge Ram (older body style) with a USMB sticker in the back window of the canopy that's me :-) I'll be heading out of Laramie about 7:30-8:00 on 80, and if my memory serves me correctly you're in South Dakota, right? So you'll prolly be heading out I-80 :-P If ya see me, gimmie a ring 541 990 8697 and we can meet up and chat for a few when I have to stop and fuel my beast

Mary, try covering half of your radiator with a sheet of cardboard (Beer boxes work good), this will choke the airflow through the radiator, which will cause the car to run warmer (which, in your case, will make it run at normal temps) in cold weather. Common practice on diesels (And gas engines in cold climates).... IF it runs too hot, cut off 1-2" of the cardboard and try again, if too cold, add more cardboard. Just don't forget to take it out when the weather warms up! Another thing, if you have an engine driven fan, take it out.

yes it is possible, but I forget which digit tells what transmission it is, BUT the third digit will be a 2 for a 4WD

hey I go to WyoTech too, and I can vouch that there are plenty of people there who are FULL OF S***T!!! (Including the instructors, in some cases)... What class are you in? I'm finishing up Drivetrain, will be in EMS next phase, then on to chassis fab and street rod I'm in day classes.. I've seen a Legacy there before, a couple actually, the one I remember seeing is like a champagne color with (I think) blue striping on the sides. I don't have my Subie here yet, I've got a 92 Dodge Ram, white and charcoal, with a white canopy, and a USMB sticker in the back window) and I'm hauling my 87 Turbowagon out here when I come back from Christmas Break! Oh I can also vouch for some of the people here being complete and utter morons, one of the guys in my class, along with his room mate (who happens to be one of the Chassis instructors sons (Larry) just got busted last weekend for stealing like fifty grand worth of tools from one of the EMS Instructor's construction sites (The cops filled a Tahoe with all the stuff they had stolen) and the one kid I overheard talking about how much he hates cops, and I'm sitting there thinking "Why, cuz you are dumb enough to steal 50 grand worth of tools?" I swear, sometimes I think I go to Wyoming Technincal High School, the way some if the people here act! But I came here for Street Rod stuff, not auto tech, just in the auto stuff because the stupid admissions rep told me my previous auto degree would not transfer, when in fact it would and I would be in street rod right now

rings dont' just "go" overnight, it's probably either your PCV valve or possibly valve seals, although those don't "go" overnight they CAN go faster than rings do lol, and aren't THAT hard to change. Involves taking the cam tower off and taking the valve springs off, using compressed air to hold the valve shut while you change the seal. If I remember correctly, only the intake valves have a stem seal, although that is on an EA81, EA82 COULD have stem seals on teh exhaust valves, but I don't remember cuz I didn't have my heads that far apart.

Under the dash, behind the kick panel (where the "lap cooler" vent is) there is a box, that is the intermittent relay for the wipers, it's probably unplugged, if it's plugged in, I'd suspect either the ground for the wiper motor, or the gear train in teh wiper motor is gummed up....

The ABS is there to keep the brakes from locking up, and sending you out of control, it does not really increase stopping distance (Unless you are one of those people who mashes the pedal to the floor and holds on for dear life in a panic stop, instead of pumping the pedal like you are supposed to...), it is just there so you maintain control in low traction situations. Ice, and other situations where you have ZERO traction, about the only good it will do is lower the chances of you going into a skid, however it is still possible for a wheel to lock long enough for the car to start to skid, but usually with ABS you have a better chance of maintaining control. ABS or not, increasing the distance between you and the car in front of you more than you normally would, when you know the roads are slick, helps as well.

Just make sure you DO NOT under any circumstances either mix dot 5 (Silicone) and regular propylene glycol brake fluid (they are not compatible) OR run DOT 5 Silicone in a car with ABS! AND if you run DOT5, you must flush your brake system with denatured alcohol (Good idea when changing your brake fluid anyway, to get the moisture out.) You are actually supposed to change your brake fluid every 2 years or 24,000 miles since brake fluid absorbs water, which will lower its boiling point and make your car more prone to brake fade :-)

I'm gonna try and fly out, but I make no promises, it's 18 hours or so to Portland so maybe if Jessica and I left rigth after I got outta class on Friday we'd prolly make it there in time. My current address in laramie is gonna change in like, 3 weeks, so if you are sending them out soon, my address is: Andrew Bowers 1411 Ord St Laramie, WY 82070 otherwise, send it to my parents house: Andrew Bowers 3295 Kingston Way NW Albany, OR 97321

your modulator valve inside the transmission could be stuck, take the modulator out, and use a magnet to retreive the valve from the valve body. Note which way it came out, it's gotta go back the same way! it should slide right out of the valve body, if it hangs up, there is your problem. If it slides out easily, slide it in and out of it's hole a few times and feel for sticky spots. Might be some varnish buildup on the valve, which can be removed with brake cleaner (Don't be tempted to use sandpaper to clean teh valve, if you absolutely MUST use something abrasive, use 2000 grit wet/dry paper with some ATF on it, and set the paper on a piece of glass, and lightly roll the valve between your fingers against the paper, don't rub side to side, roll it, or you will out-of-round the valve and have to replace the valve body. Another option would be to obtain a pressure gauge, and attach it to the proper port on the transmission (I don't know which one, but you can get an ATSG book for it for about $15, the transmission is an M41) and monitor the modulator pressure, should be ~20-40 psi with full vacuum applied, and increase to 140 or so with no vacuum. If you can monitor the line pressure as well, it should rise with the modulator pressure, although it doesn't rise as much, maybe 20 PSI. I don't have exact figures because I don't have an ATSG manual in front of me...

man , I wish I coulda been there this year But no I'm stuck here in WYOMING where ALL the cars are covered in ice and crap, AND to top it off, I live in a town full of MORONS that don't know how to drive in SNOW lol, getting in and out of school without getting hit is a chore...

still has enough power to get sideways, even with the automatic