Hondasucks

2000GTs were perty cool, predecessor to the Celica Supra if I remember correctly.. 510s are worth $$$.. If it's in decent shape, fix it up, if it's not worth fixing up, part it out. For example, 68-69 "bullet" marker lights can fetch up to $100 for a complete set. 68s are the rarest, since they only made them for like 8 months before they switched to the 69 model year, which had some slight differences. One dead giveaway of a 68 is if it has a finned valve cover (Has 8 or 9 fins in the front, over the timing sprocket)

does it do it under power but go away when you let off the throttle? could be a cracked flex plate. Also, does the noise increase in direct proportion to engine RPM, or does it seem to increase by half (if that is the case, it's in the valve train) Get a mechanics stethoscope, some of thsoe noises can be very deceiving!!!

Could it have possibly come from Canada??? Check your emissions label under the hood, see what it says. Might want to send them a picture of the ID tag on the motor...

Looks like right now in my group it's me, my "brat", her friend, and my buddy Josh that are coming.. Russ is coming too but I'll let him make his own post.

You could also just measure from tread to tread.

Get an ohm meter and figure out which switch is closed in Reverse. Wire that to the factory plug for the backup lights.

Dude, that sucks.. Who on earth would steal a SUBARU, I mean come on, yeah WE love 'em but I can't imagine STEALING one lol, or even parts off one.. IT's distinctive enough it should get recovered, and should I see it I will hunt them down (Ain't gonna be out-running my Dodge!) and catch 'em and beat them senseless...

Only one I can think of is the goofy socket to tighten the center head bolt, needs to be cut down to clear teh rocker shaft.

here is what you have to do.. Two options, one is get the land owner to file for abandonment title Not sure how to do this but you can get the forms from DMV. Second way is get the landlord guy to sign a bill of sale (must be on DMV form, get it from www.oregondmv.com) and take it to the DMV. They will make you sign a statement of financial interest and they will give you a printout showing who the registered owner is. You must then make three goodwill attempts to contact the owner (e.g, phone call, visit to the address on DMV records, and finally, send a registered letter with a lost title form and bill of sale to the address on record. When the letter comes back, you take that sealed envelope, and you mail it along with a short (1 page) essay documenting your attempts to contact the owner and why you should get the car, and you then send this to the DMV main office in Salem (Address is on their website). They will review it and will either send you the title, or a letter stating why you wont' be getting it, in which case I;m sure you can try again. MY friend had to do this with a 510 he had gotten, took him about 3-4 months total, but he eventually got the title. I think the easiest way would be the first method I outlined...

4.0L Six.. psssh! I've got a 5.9L INLINE six :-) That would be a cool motor to put in a Brat, hell you wouldnt'; even have to lower it, just stuff that 800+ lbs of motor in there, it'll be in the weeds I say keep the soob motor in the soob, stuff the 350 in an old Honda station wagon, put a fart muffler or two on it adn take it to teh track...

It's actually not that hard. Undo the tie rods from the knuckles, do not unthread them from the steering rack. Unbolt the steering shaft, adn unbolt the four bolts holding the rack in. Slide the rack out from the driver's side of the car. Depending on the year, the center section of the frame may or may not unbolt. Migth take some finessing to get it out without unbolting the tie rod. Lay the old rack on the ground and line the RACKS up with each other, ignoring the posiston of the tie rod ends. NOW, with the racks themselves lined up, note whether or not the tie rods line up. If they dont, adjust accordingly (Make sure teh racks are both centered!) if they do, bolt in the new rack. If you must remove one of the tie rod ends to get it out of the frame, simply measure the distance between the inner edges of both front tires, on the front side adn the back side, with the wheel centered, and then note what it is when you get the new rack in.

Plug your diff lock into the 4WD wiring that's already in your car, and hook the diff lock actuator up to the vacuum solenoids that are already there. it uses teh same solenoids and the same circuit just the switch is different. As for the 5 speed switches, I have no idea, but you could poke around with an ohm meter and figure out what switches do what. My 2WD 85 wagon has an upshift light, I dunno if there was one on 85 4WDs or not, but if so, one of those switches might be a 5th gear switch (so the upshift light doesn't come on in 5th gear)

sooooo where would be a good place to meet up with you guys? I was supposed to be picking up Snowman from the airport for the show, but I haven't heard from him.....

Could be your coolant temp sensor, if it is bad and the computer thinks the engine is warm, then it won't up the idle properly so the car won't stall in gear. If you rev the enine up SLIGHTLY before you put it in gear, does it still stall out??

Somewhere, probably on top of the steering column, is a switch for the parking lights. IT's marked with a P with some rays of light coming out of the P, kinda looks like p<, it's on. Flick it and it will shut the lights off.

I unplugged the knock sensor and it still did it. One thing I forgot to mention, you know the cluster of wires that goes from the distributor over to the strut tower area on teh passenger side? Well, when I first got it running, those wires somehow ended up across the turbo and melted. It was around this time I noticed the surging. Could it have fried something that thsoe wires go to that is causing the surging?? Fuel cut off????

I thnk I have a small TV monitor I can bring... And this is no new thing to me, the last time I went camping my girlfriend's dad brought along a video projector and we watched movies on the side of the dining tent thingie... I hve a projector but it's OLD and it's HUGE but it'd be cool to play PS2 on the side of one of the buildings @ the fairgrounds...

Look in the USRM, I wrote up an article on how to do the swap. It's really easy.

They are both Downdraft (D) and they share the same bolt pattern. I am pretty sure that the difference is one of the two is a manual choke and the other is an electric choke but I am not 100% sure on that one.

I just wrote up an article on it, check the USRM, under Engine :-)

here;s what I got without paying anything http://www.carfax.com/cfm/check_order.cfm?vin=JF1GF4851TH811967&partner=SGM_T_DEC_30&zipcode=&ClickID=&SiteID=&suggest=N&FID=2265&PopUpStatus=0 1996 outback, 2.2 litre, built in Japan....

I checked it out they have a TON of stuff, and not just subaru either, the Tamiya section alone is like, 5 pages of stuff!!!

Almost sounds like it's in limp mode, but I dunno. I had a car that would do about the same thing, was a 91 legacy, one of the connectors for one of the injectors had broken and come off. Duct taped it back on and it worked fine. What you can do to determine if you have a dead cylinder or not is to remove the fuel injector plugs one at a time and the idle should drop with each one, the one that doesn't change is your dead cylinder. You can't just pull the plug wires one by one since each coil actually feeds two cylinders, so if you unplug one plug wire it's actually shutting off two cylinders. Does the Check Engine light come on when you turn the key to the ON posistion without the engine running? If it does not, the bulb is either burned out or someone removed it. My 91, someone had removed the ABS light and teh Check Engine light. I eventually got the check engine light ot go off, but I never fixed the ABS.

Nope Brian, didn't see any maps, so I suppose I could meet up with you guys in Bend. Maybe the Eugene guys and anyone else who'll be coming up I 5, wants to meet up wiht me in Albany, and then we can head over on US-20 to Bend and meet up wiht the rest of you guys?

when you guys come up, are you going to come up 395 to I think it;'s 97 that goes through K Falls, and then are you going to cut over on OR-58 to I-5, and come up I-5 to portland to I-84, adn take that to Hood River or are you going to go all the way up 97 to I84 in The Dalles and head east to Hood River? Let me know so I know whether to meet you guys by the freeway in Albany or meet somewhere in Bend along 97 (Bend is about 100 miles east of me). I'll have my truck if I don't get my turbowagon back on the road in time (But I will probably trailer it up there if that is the case so I can still show it off), and Russ will most likely have his Brat. PM me or post on here when you guys figure out what route you are taking. I don';t know bend very well but I do know a good place to meet here in Albany (where we met for WCSS3) and I think it'd be a lot cooler to have a parade of Subies rolling up I-5 than a parade of soobs rolling up US-97...