Hondasucks

yeah yeah yeah I know.. I'm lazy.. I'm gonna tinker with it tomorrow, I wanna get it done before my girlfriend gets back from new york, so I can get crackin on the turbowagon...

You have something wrong with your o2 sensor, if you can unplug it and it stops. If the sensor is unplugged, teh computer will sense that, and it will substitute a value for that sensor, (Basically what it does before teh car warms up). This value the computer uses, errs on the rich side, which will equate to a small power gain. However, what you are feeling is probably just the computer re-learning itself. Might get better, might not.

My first thought was that you might have broken a timing belt, but since you said coil pack I'm going to assume you have an EJ series motor with only one timing belt. Check for vacuum leaks, I had a vacuum leak near the intake port (was a port for my vacuum gauge I had forgot about) that caused the same problem. Do a compression check, you could have a blown head gasket between the two cylinders on that side. It wouldn't be an open in the plug or plug wire, since if one side is dead, teh opposite cylinder won't get spark either. Unlikely, but possible, both plugs are fouled.. I'd start with a compression check and go from there. You can rent a compression gauge from most auto parts stores for free, with a refundable deposit.

In the wiring harness it's either behind the cluster or under the dash somewhere, there is a wire with a fuse in it, may or may not have a quick disconnect on it. This is teh keep-alive wire for the clock. Basically, they shipped them with the wire disconnected so teh batteries wouldn't drain on the boat ride over here, and they were hooked up at ususally at the final delivery point. Yours might have come disconnected, or blew the fuse. Look for a wire with an inline fuse holder in it, I think it's light blue in color.

Dude, Jon, you really oughtta get some wire loom or something and run that wire like, neatly, would look a lot better than the frickin spaghetti you got going there ;-) Still looks good though, keep up the good work :-) And I think that the motor that's in that, is a japanese crate motor, or a low mileage junkyard motor. Not sure though..

Funny thing is, it NEVER did it with the old motor! And when it first did it it was quite mild, just a ligth surging that it would do after a while at like, 1/3 throttle or more, and if I changed gears or backed out of it and then got on it again it would be fine. Then I drove it around teh block like, a week ago and it was REAL bad. Can't give it any throttle at all... GRRR this is irritating! I guess I'll check the tank first and go from there...

PM JonOfScio, he has a hatch he is parting out, it's straight.

Okay, I got my girfriends car all back together and ready to go, but the light surging I posted about before, is really bad now. You give it ANY pedal at all and it bucks really bad, and if you floor it, it will go for a little bit, maybe a second, then it will start to buck and backfire slightly, and while it is surging it feels like someone is turning the key on and off with it at full throttle. It did not do this with the old engine. I have swapped out the fuel pump, replaced the fuel filter, the distributor is off the old engine, but it surged with the dizzy off of the engine that is in it as well. I'm running out of things to switch out, and my mom and dad are bugging me to get the car to Jessica's house, but I can't even drive it over there it surges so bad.

put me down for two USMB decals and one 4WD decal (biggest I can get for 3.00). USMB in white, 4WD in black. Thanks.

jeeze, $7,000 motor, and the guy can't spell HYDRAULIC

you guys could cut over on US 20 to albany and meet up with the I-5 guys (and me) in Albany. If you take 395 all the way up to I84 you will end up in Pendleton which if my memory serves me right is about 200 miles from Portland.

You have to remove the transmission, and remove the center diffferential/transfer clutch assembly, and have the spider gears in the differential (or the viscous coupling, depends on the year) welded. You are better off just leaving it, you can still drift an AWD car, it's just harder *cough* e-brake *cough*

yeah, he's right it's 32 MM. Older soobs are 36mm. You can get either socket at Sears for about $6-10 or so.

I wonder how the head gasket failures on the stage I engines relate to cooling system maintenance. Those of you on here wiht no problems, do you change your coolant every two years or 24,000 miles like you are suposed to? Those of you who have had problems, any idea when the last time the cooling system was serviced was??

Why would you want to run your fog lights without the headlights anyway? If you need to have the fog lights on, then you should probably have your head lights on as well. As for the daytime running lights, there is a way to turn them off, its in your owner's manual. However, if you've noticed, when the parking brake is set, teh DRLs turn off. You can either wire a switch in to the parking brake switch, fooling the system into thinking the parking brake is on, or set the parking brake one click. Not enough to engage the brake, but enough to make the dash light come on, and off go the DRLs. However, DRLs do increase your visibility to other vehicles, and can reduce the chances of a collision. Subaru implemented them for safety reasons (probably with some puppeteering from GM), so it doesn't quite make sense to me why you'd want to turn them off, other than the fact you don't like the idea that they stay on all the time and you can't control them :-)

well, if you want a KICK @SS one, it'll cost ya ($1500) but Mac Tools carries a Mac-Branded versiion of the OTC Genesys tool, which will not only work with OBDII, but also OBD-I cars as well. As for a just a code reader, those run about $300, but having used oen of the higher end scan tools, they are sooo much better!

MAKE SURE you get one that has the FACTORY towing package on it (Have the dealer run the vin if you are unsure, they can tell what options it was ordered with.) The non-towing package vans have several critical parts in the transmission that Chrysler, to save a few bucks a tranny, didnt' use hardened parts, so after about 70,000 miles your van doesn't move anymore becuase one of the shafts inside doesn't have splines on it anymore. The vans with the towing package use hardened steel parts in the tranny, and they are just fine. (However, most of the non-towign pkg vans that have had the transmisison rebuilt, have had these parts replaced with the upgraded, hardened parts.) And the last thing you want to do is go buy a car, and then have to sink $3500 into it to have the transmission replaced :-) OTher than that, they are good minivans. The old ones are indestructable, especially if you get one that is a 5 speed (And they DID come Turbo, but I dunno if they came turbo with a 5 speed or not, but you could convert it fairly easily with the 5 speed out of a Turbo Shadow or something.. I've seen a turbo caravan WITH AN AUTOMATIC, that ran mid 12s @ 27 PSI I think the address is http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus And Jeep Liberty = AWD Minivan

my 91 did about the same thing, and one of the fuel injector plugs had broken and it would fall off and break connection, and the car would run like crap and get crappy mileage, then I'd go around a corner and it would pop back on and run fine. I didn't know what it was, so I went under the hood and I pulled all the injector wires one by one, and when I got to the #4 injector, the connector fell off in my hand, so I put in on there with some bailin.. errm mechanics wire, and never had another problem with it.

Where's it at? Give me money for fuel and money or some goodies for my time, and pay for rental or borrow a trailer, and I'll haul it with my Dodge :-)

One thing you might have to do, is engineer up some stuff for other makes of cars as well, like say, some off road accessories for pickups or something, that will get you going, but you can still do the Subaru stuff, but at the same time, advertise that you do this kind of stuff for Subarus as well, that way even if you don't sell too much Subie stuff, you won't go broke.

I got these things from Sears, they were like $40 for the set, but basically it is a set of nuts with teeth on the inside, you drive the nut over the end of teh broken bolt or stud with a hammer (Only works if the bolt's not broken off flush) and then take it out with a wrench. Nice part is that unlike an EZ-Out, you can turn this both directions. Also, with the penetrating oil, spray it on, and let it sit for 5-0 minutes before you try to loosen the bolt, as it will need time to penetrate. If you just spray it on, it won't have time to penetrate and loosen the bolt. The torch thing, another method that works good is to heat up the bolt red hot, this will cause it to expand, and (hopefully) crush and loosen the gunk in the threads, then when it fully cools down, sometimes they will come out by hand. Not sure how well it works on steel bolts in an aluminum block, but it works great on oil gallery plugs on a cast iron V8 block..

yeah methinkie the Turbowagon is going to get a set of gnarly cams when I have the engine apart I am going to feed some engine specs into Desktop Dyno 2000 and have it run a cam profile iteration to see what my best bet for a cam profile will be. I know I can't change the separation (or can I?) but I can change lift and duration right...... Does Delta regrind a stock core, or do they machine a blank to your specs?

Albany users unite! lol I'm in Albany too, I have an 87 GL Turbo wagon, white, XT6 5 lug conversion, Legacy LSi alloys, lowered, prolly seen it around. It's sitting in the driveway waiting for the garage door to get fixed so I can pull the motor and get the new heads put on and blah blah blah. I currently roll a 92 Dodge Ram pickup, Turbo diesel, "work sucks I'm going wheelin" sticker.. If you ever need a hand or advice with any soob stuff, get ahold of me on here or call my cell 541 990 8697. As for the problem with the jerking Subaru, did you check your transmission mounts? If one of those is broken or loose, it will cause the car to jerk around. They run about $40 each from the dealer (There are two.. IF you look underneath it looks like there are three, but the one in the middle is just a rubber bumper, it's not connected to teh transmisson) A guy on here (GEneral Disorder) used 3M Windo-Weld windsheild adhesive to make a set for his Brat, dunno how well it worked, but that it some vrey stiff adhesive!

The factory intervals, at least for the EA82s, is 7500 miles for the oil and 15,000 miles for the oil and filter, except on the Turbo models, which is 7500 miles both oil and filter. I change mine every 3,000, the few extra dollars I spend on oil and filter every 3k miles, is cheaper than a new engine. And regardless of what the oil says about lasting 7500 miles, 10,000 miles, etc.. yeah the additives may last that long, but $1.25 a quart wal-mart oil gets dirty just as fast as that $8 a quart "20,000 mile" synthetic.... Although Amsoil is good stuff, my old boss from last summer had two dodge ram diesel pickups, and three hay balers, all ran Amsoil 20W50 Synthetic. One truck had 260,000 on the ticker, and the other had 180,000 and both ran like tops, as did all three balers.

I would definately buy this! I'd also like to see the older generation subies represented as well as the new ones, would really be nice to see. Maybe even in the future upgrade to 12 issues instead of 6... This will be nice to finally have a magazine for *US* to go with the Honduh and Veedub mags...