Hondasucks

that seriously rocks! Only problem is you put a CHEVY motor in a SUBARU tsk tsk tsk... at least use a flat six....

I give it six months before your cuban immigrant is having electrical gremlins..... Hose everything out, hell, go drive it that deep into a lake to rinse teh salt out...

man, just as I start catching up you guys go and buy anothr car.. We dont have 8 soobs but this is what is at my house: Parents cars: 00 Ford van conversion 02 Nissan Maxima 64 1/2 Ford Mustang (#33034) My cars: 87 Turbowagon 85 carbed wagon Jessica's 86 turbo sedan Jessica's 85 turbo sedan parts car and my 92 Dodge Ram 4x4 So yeah, parking here SUCKS I have to park my truck in front of the mailbox and piss off the mail man. Good job on the new car :-) I dunno about the ticket, but I wonder which of you will get the first mud on it???

Accordign to what I saw in a book, the "10" means jack, it's from the Bo Derek movie "10"... Ask Baja, he had the book....

I will try my best mike. If not I'll let you run my new toy :-) not sayin nuttin but its bigger than Scott's Durango! I'll prolly dink with one of those carbs tomorrow see what I can come up with.

go to google and look up Pogue Carburetor. Back in the thirties, a guy by the name of Charles Nelson Pogue invented a device called the poge carburetor. Basically it used exhaust gases to heat the fuel into a vapor, and this vapor was fed into the engine. While he never secured any patents, and the "big three" never bought any of his inventions, his device supposedly got upwards of SIXTY MPG on a gas engine. Heating the fuel would make it vaporize more readily, which is what you want since it is teh vapors, not the liquid fuel that burns.

I second the impact screwdriver, those work great, and I've seen ;em for like $20 bucks. Good tool to have around.

your car is a 91 it should already HAVE an LSD... Also, unless you have the proper tools to set up the gears and bearing preload, it's not worth it.

cars without OBD-II they prolly use a sniffer, but a car with OBD-II runs its own emission test. Also, if you hollow out or remove teh cat, there is a thing that you can get to plug into the second o2 sensor harness, that fools the computer into thinking the cat is working.

It did not do this before, and I swapped the entire engine.

If you really want a clean install, then do what I did. Remove the front and rear seats, and remove the trim around the edges that holds teh carpet down (You don't have to remove the carpet). Run the wires under the trim panel on the side, or under teh carpet between teh rocker panel and the door. If you are running more than about 50 watts to your speakers, I would recommend upgrading the wiring for the speakers, it is not that hard. I ran mine above the trim that is under the dash. I ran my speaker wires down the sides, and then I ran the power wire for my amp right down the middle of the car (It's easy to do with the seats out, just fish it under the carpet). I Think the stock door speakers are 5 1/2, I have 6 1/2s in the front of my turbowagon and I had to cut the door panel out, but the 5 1/2 or 5 1/4s I used in the rear bolted in. As for teh trip computer, I dunno cuz I dopn't have one. I wonder if the 88-89 trip computer control panel would work in an 87, liek if it would hook up, cuz the 87 trip computer would be sideways... I don't think that 85-86 trip computers would work cuz they have the outside temperature gauge in teh dash, rather than in the trip computer.

Got my girlfriends car going finally woohoo! Now for the problem: At slow speeds (1st and 2nd gear and sometimes 3rd, but never at 45 or faster) it surges really bad, sometimes violently. If you back out of it, change gears, or put the clutch in and let it idle down then go again, it goes away. If you stand on it, it still does it, but after a few seconds it dies down and goes away. Any ideas? My guess is teh fuel filter, but not sure...

yeah, the other day Jessica was driving my 85 wagon, and some girl in a Pilot pulled out RIGHT in front of us, didn't even look. Thank God Jessica reacted quickly and downshifted and nailed the brakes. Locked up all four tires and left four NICE skidmarks and a cloud of smoke. Not even THAT caused her to look in our direction at all.. Glad we didn't hit her cuz it's a hassle, but I kinda wish we had, woulda taught her a lesson. (She had that mommy-and-daddy-just-bought-me-this look) Also good reason to have a car with a working horn, cuz then we could have gotten her attention before she pulled out, cuz I saw her creeping forward (As she's looking the OTHER WAY) and then she pulled out, We missed her by about six inches...

It's real, I saved the pictures last time it was on ebay, I'll post them up later when I am at my house.

DUDE!!! That is SO going to be my background on the laptop! :-D That is sweet! Only car I ever caught air in was my 87 hatchback, and those that know Albany know about the tracks on 2nd street, those that don't well, the road goes up and across the tracks and then back down, and the way the left lane is angled (it's a one way) it's really nice for catching air. I hit it at about 60 in my hatchback and I got a good 6-12" off the ground and I flew for like four feet or so. Didn't break anything...

My auto instructor got some from www.porstore.com and YES THE STUFF WORKS!!!!

The clock in my 85 wagon conked out on me today. It used to work just fine, and then today I got in and it was dead. I yanked it out of the dash tonight and popped the cover off and the display was visible, albeit very dim. I don't think the vacuum fluorescent display puked, as those usually dont just puke, they slowly get dimmer and dimmer. Any ideas? Can an 87-up clock be swapped in? (I have a spare, but it has four wires and the 85 clock has 5) Also, the trip computer in Jessica's 86 GL-10 doesn't work, when the sun hits it just right you can see the numbers, but it doesn't light up. Where is the light at??? I got another one from the junkyard, but it was dead too :-(

I hope someone figures out where to get the part that fries, I have like friggin six digital dashes, all but one are dead, and the ones that are dead have the SAME PART that is fried, and it looks to be a voltage regulator but I am not positive..

Brian, Go here http://cf.linnbenton.edu/disted/au3296/web.cfm?pgID=1529 and click on the "Chiltons auto repair info for LBCC students" link. Should be able to find what you need on there.

Depends on your driving, but that is weird since the fronts do most of the braking. I'l check for a hung caliper or something. If you do the brakes yourself, be sure to lubricate the caliper bolts/pins (where the caliper slides) with Silaglyde or other silicone brake lubricant, making sure they are clean and free of the old lube before you put the new lube on. If you are having a shop do it, they should check all that for you...

Also, remove the drain plug in the head, it's a 14MM might need a impact gun or a good breaker bar, they are usually perty tight (Put some anti-seize on the threads when you put it back in ) or you will not get everything out of the block. Migth help to jack up the side of the car opposite the drain plug, since there is one on each head, but the one on the driver's side you have to drop the exhaust to get to).. One of those flush n' fill kits that you can get for like 5 bucks that pipe into the heater hoses, those work great, got sooo much gunk out of my car when I did a flush on it..

I don't think $100 is a rediculous price. the $600 for a reman or $1500 for a new one from the dealer, that is a rediculous price. The dash I have is a Turbo dash too :-)

There is an article on legacycentral.org about it, the added flow of the 2.5 liter head is not enough to warrant the trouble putting it on. But That is just the 2.5, I have no idea abotu the JDM heads Corky was talking about, for all I know they will just bolt right on. I have a set of EJ22 heads I'd sell, you could prolly have those ported and polished for less than it would cost ya to get a set of those heads Corky was talking about. They have a fresh valve grind on them, but somehow one of the valves got lost, but I have the other valves....

it needs to go in the plenum, between the turbo and the throttle body. The idea is to blow off that pressure that is pushing against the closed throttle plates, and prevent it from backpressuring agaist the turbine. One side goes to the plenum, the other side CAN go to the atmosphere, but it will confuse the computer, so best bet is to pipe the outlet into the intake BEFORE the turbo, then the little vacuum line goes to the intake manifold.

The dash harness IS separate, but you have to pull the dash and swap the whole harness, You will also need an analog coolant temp sensor, analog fuel level sender, and the oil pressure sender since the digidashes only had the idiot light. I have a working one, I need to resolder the connector at the back. $100 its yours.