Hondasucks

I agree with Ken, about the only way you are going to bend valves on an EJ25 is if you break a belt at high RPM and the valves happen to stick wide open. The four cam engines are a different story, as the valves can and will contact each other if the belt breaks. The last four cam I saw with bent valves was one that had an aftermarket water pump come apart.

That's the shift interlock. You are supposed to have to press the brake pedal in order to shift from Park, however if that mechanism malfunctions, you will have to press the button to over-ride the interlock. You should here a click sound coming from the shifter lever when pressing the brake pedal with the ignition switch on, if not, either the interlock solenoid is bad, the switch on the brake pedal is bad, or the wiring between the two is boogered up.

Some Subarus have a VSS that goes on the front diff, where the cable goes, and then the cable attaches to the top of the sensor, you may be able to use one of those.

Don't drive it continuously like this, it will eventually burn out the transfer solenoid. Since it works with the FWD fuse in, it's not as serious as it could be. Does it ALWAYS do it, or only on certain turns? Try taking the fuse out and doing several figure eights in a parking lot, sometimes this helps, if the clutches are sticking. Do you have a check engine light on? Or does your "AT OIL TEMP" light blink when you turn the key on? According to the service manual, the following will cause binding on turns: 1) Control module 2) Vehicle speed sensor 1 3) Vehicle speed sensor 2 4) Throttle position sensor 5) ATF temperature sensor 6) Transfer clutch 7) Transfer valve 8) Duty solenoid C 9) ATF deterioration We've ruled out 6,7, 8, and probably 1, since with the fuse in, it works normally. 2,3,4 and 5 would most likely cause a check engine light, unless they are producing valid but erroneous data.

I use the Subaru factory tools, but for what they cost you could get your timing belt done by a mechanic. There is a tool that fits into the four holes on the crank sprocket, that is used to tighten and loosen the crank bolt, there is a tool with two pins that is used to hold the cam sprockets, and there is another really handy tool to turn the crankshaft. The tools are made by SPX, and you can order them from http://subaru.spx.com/ The tools you need are: http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499207100 cam sprocket wrench http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499977100 Crankshaft sprocket wrench http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499987500 Crankshaft socket I don't know the number for the cam and crank seal installers, but a large socket should work, the main advantage to the installer is it puts the seal at the correct depth. You probably aren't going to want to buy the tools, but I figured at least if you saw the pictures, you might be able to find something that will work.

I have an EJ crank sprocket at work, I'll take a picture of it and post it here tomorrow and point out the timing mark on the sprocket. I've done umpteen timing belts and the only one I had on wrong was the one that I got a little over-confident with and put everything back together before I tried starting it...

Yeah, it should be pretty easy, however you'll need the wiring and computer to go with it, since I THINK the intake between the 2.2 and 2.5L is different, but I don't know for sure since I've never had a 2.5 and a 2.2 apart at the same time.

Look at the cam covers, if they have three bolts in the center of the cover, and the spark plug wires go in above the cover, it is a phase 1. The phase 2 2.2 came around in 1998 I think, and it looks like an EJ25 except it says "EJ22" on the block. This later style has smooth cam covers, bolts around the edges, and the spark plug wires go through the cover. The phase 2 has a few more HP than the phase 1 EJ22, however it is an interference motor.

Scouts are sick! The senior master tech at my work, his nephew has a Scout Diesel, he wants to put a Cummins 4 cylinder in it. It has a naturally aspirated Chrysler Nissan diesel in it, but he's tired of it taking a long time to find or get parts for it, even though it runs fine for the most part.

NO! BAD! Very easy to mess up the seal on installation! Remove the pump, make sure the big #3 phillips screws on the back are tight, clean the Fuji Bond off the pump and the block, put a bead of new silicone sealant (I recommend Fuji Bond but it's expensive cuz it comes in a huge tube and you won't use very much, so unless you can get a partial tube from someone, just some gray or black silicone sealant should work fine) on the pump, install a new O-ring, and reinstall the pump. Then, using an appropriate seal driver or large socket, drive the new seal in. If you put the pump on with the seal in it, it's very easy to pop the spring out of the seal and cause it to leak, and it usually starts leaking after you've put the front of the engine back together. As for having a rack: Put the car in the air, drain the coolant, disconnect the fans, take the bottom bolts out of the fans (if applicable - some are not bolted at the bottom) and take the bottom bolts out of the timing belt covers. Lower the car, take the alternator belt off, remove the alternator and set it on top of the AC pump (no need to disconect it, just makes seeing down in there easier, plus helps when doing the oil pump), take the top bolts out of the fans, remove the fans, remove the radiator since you are replacing it, take the crank pulley off (You'll need to wedge a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter unless you have the tool to hold the pulley), remove the timing belt covers.

I'm in Corvallis, 10 miles off I-5 let me know when you are coming through, email me at bigbadsubaru@gmail.com if you don't have my cell number anymore. (It also should be in my profile on here)

I can come over and show you how to work it sometime Just as long as you guys don't get too much drool on my SVX

Yeah, that's a new sensor, I've done enough of those + Toyota ones, that anti-seize stuff comes on them (There is usually a little plastic collar that goes over the threaded part to protect it in shipping). Also, I'm not totally 100% sure since I can't look it up from home, but I think there is a ECU reflash that covers a P0130 code, don't know for sure though, esp. without knowing the year of the vehicle.

That's awesome! At my dealership you would have ended up with a Corolla

Did you have the belt on so the words on the belt were right side up? If you put it on backwards, they won't line up correctly. Also, make sure you are using the correct timing mark on the crankshaft, on the rear of the crank sprocket there are several teeth for the crank position sensor, one of these has a notch in it, that is the mark you want to line up with the center (dotted) line on the timing belt.

What you are experiencing is known as "torque bind" it means that the AWD is engaging for some reason. There are a few things that could be causing this, one is a bad "duty solenoid C" or transfer solenoid (Your "AT OIL TEMP" light will blink on startup if it's an electrical problem with this solenoid), another is your transfer clutches are stuck together (can be caused by running different sized tires, improper towing, unevenly worn tires, or by running a donut spare without putting the FWD fuse in), and the third problem is inside the transfer housing on the transmission, there are sealing rings that when they go bad, they allow fluid to pass and engage the transfer clutches. Any of these things will require removal of the transfer housing of the transmission, and are best left to a Subaru mechanic. Replacement of the duty solenoid, if I remember correctly, requires removing the pan as well as you have to disconnect the wiring for it. It is possible that there is a wiring issue external to the transmission causing the problem, but it's more likely internal.

The 2.5 SOHC *IS* an interference motor, however it takes more than a few teeth off on the belt to bend valves (Usually only happens if the valves stick fully open when the belt breaks) so chances are that is not the case. There is a notch in one of the teeth of the sensor ring that's on the crank pulley -- This lines up with the center (dotted) line on the timing belt, and the two solid lines on the belt each line up with a line on the face of the cam pulley. Also, when you put the belt on, you should be able to read the words on the belt, if you put it on backwards it will not line up correctly and it will not run right! There is a good article in the End Wrench on how to replace the timing belt.

The drive shafts are not serviceable, the joints are staked in and the only way to replace them is to grind the staked portions out, since there are no snap rings or circlips that hold the joints in. (If you didn't have to do any grinding, it's possible the previous owner had a remanufactured drive shaft put in or something to that effect, since a replacement shaft from Subaru is about $400) Take the shaft out and make sure the joints all move freely, if they don't, you might have gotten a cup in too tight (You can usually knock the center part of the joint outwards to seat the cups against the clips) I don't remember if those shafts come apart in the center or not, if they do, and you took it apart in the center, take it apart, rotate the rear section of the shaft one quarter turn with respect to the front section and reassemble it and see if your vibration goes away, you probably just got the sections out of phase. Also make sure all of the bolts in the shaft are identical, and that you don't have a missing washer or something, since that will cause a vibration. As for upgrading to power windows and locks, all the wiring for the power windows and locks is there, up under the dash. You will need to get the harnesses for the doors, door panels, regulators, power lock actuators, etc... but all the body wiring is there.

Sounds like you could possibly have a thermostat issue, they are easy to replace, they are on the bottom, held on with 2 10mm bolts. They are relatively cheap from the dealer, make sure you get a gasket with it. It's also possible that you have a blown head gasket, as excess pressure in the cooling system caused by combustion gases getting in there will blow hoses and radiator tanks, especially if your radiator cap is not venting properly. Do you have the newer style 2.2? The newer style will say "EJ22" on the block but it has the 2.5 style cam covers, where the spark plug wire goes through the cam cover. Either way, the 2.2s are not really known for head gasket issues, however the new style 2.2 IS an interference motor, so you do not want to skimp on the timing belt, and you will want to make sure you check all the idler pulleys and replace any of them that are noisy. You'll also want to check the tensioner and replace it if it is leaking or if the pulley is noisy.

I need to get XT6 bolts in my turbowagon... But first I need to figure out why it runs like $#@*$

Dang, I should have brought the SVX!!! I need to get some knobby tires for it and come to the next one I haven't rallycrossed since 2003 when I ran the 87 turbowagon (Which I still have)...

Try opening the EGR valve manually with the engine running (lift up the diaphragm with your finger) this should cause the engine to stumble and die, if it does not stumble and die, or if it just starts running a little rougher but doesn't die, you probably have a dirty valve and/or EGR passage, which can be cleaned with a brush and some carburetor cleaner. If it does stumble and die, your EGR flow is okay, but you might have a leaky diaphragm in the EGR valve. Take the hose off of the valve, and apply suction to the vacuum port on the valve, the valve should open and stay there, if it does not, chances are the diaphragm is leaking, and you will need to replace the EGR valve.

I am pretty sure we never got a 2.2 with twin cams, the only twin cam EJ motor I've seen (NA) is the 2.5L, but the turbo motors are all twin cam except for the 2.2 turbo. He probably just doesn't know what he's talking about. Either that, or someone put a 2.5 twin cam in it. But yes, they are overhead cam, they have been overhead cam since 1985, excluding the 85-87 Brat and 85-89 hatch.

I would NOT go aftermarket on the water pump either, I'm a Subaru technician at a dealership, and I have seen a few aftermarket pumps come apart and take out the belt, front cover, etc... Also, depending on the mileage, you probably won't neeed the tensioner and all the idlers, get the belt off and spin the idlers and tensioner pulleys by hand, they should spin smoothly and not sound "rough" or "dry". As for the tensioner, check around the piston, if it is wet, it's leaking, replace it cuz that can cause the belt to jump time if it loses pressure.

That and it was a japanese crate motor as far as I could tell. But yeah, my old 77 wagon was F A S T!