Hondasucks

http://cgi2.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=ez_stuff I looked, and they have had 3 negative feedbacks in the last 12 months (with 246 positive). I think it's rather dumb of ebay to let users hide their feedback, as the sole purpose for it being there is to protect others.

Yeah, but I think you are supposed to do it in 2nd gear with the E brake set or something like that..

I have an XT that is for sale, 86 2WD 5 speed, runs like a champ. Looks great on the outside (Slight dent in the back bumper, but I can pop it out) and the back seat is torn, but other than that it is a very nice car. Make me an offer :-) As for the dumb $%*%* in the Caddy.. Sue 'em for every penny they;'ve got for negligence.....

Why you parting it, rust??? My bad.. Should learn to read stuff thoroughly, coulda sworn it said XT6 lol... live and learn :-)

Man, I wanna crank mine up now! I have mine at like, 9 PSI or so.. I just poked a few holes in my wastegate line, although hopefully soon I will be getting an MBC and an AFC in trade for some parts :-)

well Iwould rather have a new one.. so is it 55 or 35 or 25??

The whole distributor, or just the vacuum advance canister?

YTou need to hook up a clutch return spring. Get one off of a DL, or hook up your hill holder. You have to keep the TOB from constantly riding on the pressure plate, or it will burn up and make noise like this one. It is probably siezed, and is grinding on the pressure plate fingers. My friend drove one like this on his Datsun 510, and ended up puttling the throw-out bearing THROUGH the pressure plate!

I am in need of a vacuum advance canister for an 85 carbed 2WD GL wagon. Anyone know where I can get one?

Yes, Josh it would apply to a carbed engine. What happens is the carbon acts as a sponge, soaking up some of the fuel, resulting in a lean condition in the cylinder, which causes it to run hotter, which in turn, heats up teh carbon to where it glows, creating a "hot spot" that causes pre-ignition.. Or something to that effect...

You should be able to slap some new heads on it (if they are cracked) and a set of head gaskets and drive it.. I had an 84 wagon with 343,000 miles on it that sat for 3 years with water in the crankcase from a blown head gasket. Replaced the H/G and the head, and it ran like a TOP..

I dunno if this would apply to your warranty or not, but my ex has a Hyundai, and to save money she wanted to see if I could change the oil rather than the dealer (cuz it has to have it's scheduled maintenance for the warranty to be valid) and the dealer said it was okay, as long as she brought in receipts for the oil, and if I replaced anything like an air or fuel filter, I had to get genuine Hyundai parts.

yeah.. Are you aware that your oil filter is nothing more than a folded paper screen? Still is a good idea to change it dang thing, right?

Dude.. VW Kombi Doublecab.. You got pics? I think that is what we got as the Vanagon Doublecab.. Is it a syncro? Josh beat me to it, legacycentral.org is a good place to start.

If you converted to R134a from R-12 you better hope you got all the R12 out, if not you have just created about two pounds of hazardous waste tha will cost about $400 to dispose of legally. Evacuating the system ensures all the old refrigerant is out, as is any moisture and impurites. Proper way to do an R-12 retrofit is to have a shop evacuate the R-12 (most will do it for free since the R-12 tha is removed is worth about $20 a pound) and then pull a vacuum fro 15 minutes or so.. Maybe overnigth if it's been open for a while.. then install the new O-rings if necesary, and then the oil and refrigerant... as for your idle problem, I think your IUCD (Idle Up Control Device) is bad, or one of the vacuum lines to it or the solenoid that engages it is bad. Pull the vacuum line from the IUCD and apply vacuum, IUCD plunger should move. If it does not, replace IUCD. If it does move, check lines and solenoid.

While you are in there, drop the pan and replace the filter. You can get a quality kit from NAPA for under 20 bucsk prolly, includes a filter and new pan gasket. Just drop the pan (drain the fliuid first if thre is a drain plug, if not just drop one side of the pan, and buy a drain plug kit ($10) for it. With only 53k ono the clicker, it probably has never been serviced, and if you change the filter every 12,000 miles and have the transmission flushed every 24,000 it will last you a long time!

so GD, know where I migth be able to get a vacuum advance canister? I need one..

Hey Spiffy, good to hear from ya :-) B&R Auto Wrecking might have a set www.autowrecking.net.. also, call around to some tire shops, as they sometimes have stock wheels for sale.

You are better of with a welded diff, LSDs arent' all they are cracked up to be for wheeling. They won't help you if you get a wheel completely off the ground. That said, if you are going to convert it, just put the LSD carrier in the non-LSD housing with the 3.90 gears. Do not try to just swap ring gears, the ring and pinion are a matched set and are not swappable! You will have to grind a little of the case out for the bolts to clear, but it is doable. You will have to remove the carrier bearing holders, do not mix them up and do not swap the shims between sides! I have a spare 3.90 diff, I'll weld it and trade you that + maybe some cash for that LSD :-)

pop off the cap and see if the rotor wiggles. If the shaft wiggles around you probaly have bad bushings which will cause all sorts of fun problems. Another thing you can do is attach a vacuum pump (or a piece of vacuum hose and use your God-given vacuum pump) to the vacuum advance canister and suck on it (or use pump) and see if the mechanism inside moves. If it doesn't, or it won't hold vacuum, the canister is bad and will need replacing. My 85 has a bad vac. advance, and it gets 18MPG and is GUTLESS as all hell!

just don't let them do anything with your wheels, we had them do the brakes on our old 78 Ford van one time before we left for a 600 mile trip, and on the way back, after we had driven down this two lane windy as hell road with a 200 foot drop off on one side, we had stopped for ice cream and on the way out one of the wheels fell off. Dad got out and looked and out of the 5 lugs, three were broken off and one was missing, and dad went around and looked at teh other wheels, and one of the other wheels was cracked and two of the lug nuts were loose. Turns out they had put them on with an impact gun and didn't torque the lug nuts, and either they got them too tight or not tight enough, but dad was fumin! CRacked two of his Keystone mag wheels, and they refused to do anything about it too.. So yeah, dad won't go to Midas anymore.

Yes, tow straps with loops are safer, but they are a pain to attach to your car. What I do, is go down to some place that sells farm stuff, and get some tractor eyes (I think that is what they are called -- not sure) basically it is a U shaped piece of metal, with a pin the slides through one end. Loop the U though your tow hook, put the loop in the other end of the U, and run the pin through the loop. I prefer the style with a mouse key (kinda like a cotter pin, but not) because they are a lot less likely to fall out then the kind that just use a spring loaded ball (like a socket wrench) They aren't very expensive, I think under $5 a piece. If you can't find any, I can get you some locally. Next time I am in the farm store I will get a picture so you can see what I mean, they work great!

Welcome to the board! Although I prefer over Coffe.......

Meh, use a Cummins.. I'd rather be Cummin than Strokin :-) sorry couldn't; resist. That rangers gotta be a beast, Got any pics? PM me.. When I checked, the SUB4 heads were 1500, the manifolds and carbs were $750 but that was a year or so ago. The problem is, is those kit airplane people have money coming out their ears and the people that sell those parts know it! lol...

doesn't Subaru Styles have coilovers in the back of his wagon? I know he has the 5 lug, but the rear shocks are the same.. You might be able to modify coilovers for an early 90s Civic, they might be small enough.