Hondasucks

I think I read average power loss through an automatic is somewhere around 30%. Your Loyale should have a locking torque converter (I am not sure if it is the self-locking type found in the older ones, or if it is a computer-controlled T/C (Probably the latter if it is a 4EAT but I am not sure if it is or not I forget when (if ever) the non-turbos got the 4EAT. Easiest way to tell is lack of a "1" or "L" position on the manual lever, and a "MANUAL" button that is pushed to hold the transmission in 1st gear. But yeah, ditch that and go with a manual and it'll be a lot better. Plus, if you do it before the slushbox bites the dust, you can sell it off to someone with a blown automatic and reclaim some of your money.

yeah, pop the hood and let it idle, and see if the fan kicks in. If it does not, check the temperature switch in the radiator for continuity (pull the 2 pin plug off of it, and jumper the harness side of it with a paperclip, if the fan comes on, replace the switch, if it does not, check to make sure that the fan has power, and the grounds are good, etc..)

I read somewhere if you take off less than .030" off the head you don't have to worry about it. My Datsun's head was shaved .040" and it had shims in the cam towers, I suppose you could shim the cam tower with some shim stock if you were crafty lol... Also, the thing with forged pistons, use hypereutectic. They are cast, but are nearly as stong as forged. Call up United Engine Machine in Carson City, NV they might be able to make a set...

now ya gotta get rid of that slushbox automatic :-) Then it will really haul some balls! I need an IC and some goodies fro my wagon...

Like I said, I can shoot it for cheap in my driveway, and although it wont be a show job, it will look better than a rattle can... And if there is any paint left over, I can like, buy it offa ya and use it to paint MY 4X4 :-)

well the decals can be saved in one of two ways.. One is I, or whoever paints it, can cover the decal with masking tape, and then cut it out around the decals. Or, two, you could paint over teh decals, and then block sand the paint off the decals. I'd prefer the first method..

I have a gun and a compressor. Bring it down to Albany and I'll shoot it in my driveway. Yeah it might get some crap in the paint, but it's an offroader not a show car. Make me a reasonable offer on labor, keep in mind I'm not a shop so I won't want $200 to paint your car.. I think 50-100 bucks is prolly fair, that's cheaper than what you would pay to rent/buy a gun and/or a compressor. I'm only 60 miles away :-)

Josh -- if ya wait until next weekend or your next night off or whatever, I can give you a hand wiht it prolly, if ya wanted to do it in my driveway.

Man, wait until Caboobaroo sees your sig, he also has an 88 IROC 350 TPI, but I'll let him tell ya about it, it's pimp... I dig the 6.6L big block Trans Am :-) The EJ series (EJ22, etc.. Legacy motors) won't bolt up to the stock tranny, but they can be put into the older bodies without too much trouble if you are good at fabrication and wiring (I've heard the only diff is the tranny crossmember..) however you can squeeze some more ponies out of those EA82s.. Are either of them Turbo? I've got an 87 Turbowagon that blows the socks offa most of the "rice" here in town ;-)

Its not too much trouble. I dunno what all you need for an EA82, but for an EA81 I know in addtion to the "DUH" parts (tranny, clutch, flyhweel, flywheel bolts, pedals and bracket, cables) you also need the M/T crossmember and the crossmember brackets. I think I saw a cherry picker when I was out there, you can pull the motor, then pull the tranny, and then put the new tranny in (Lots easier than laying on your back dropping the tranny out)

Stay away from APC, but I've seen them on Ebay.. With the proper connectors and such I could probably make one, all it is is some connectors and some relays..

Well, got the 85 motor into the 86, and got it running finally. Runs perty darn good in fact :-) So I shut it down (I only ran it for maybe 10 seconds) and decided to put the radiator in and get some water in it so I can fine-tune everything and get the exhaust hooked up and whatnot... So I start adding water, and then I hear water dripping out form underneath.. Look underneath, water is dripping off both motor mounts.. Great do I have a cracked block? So I add some more coolant and look at the top of the motor and I see coolant, so I trace it back to a blown freeze plug on the back of the water passage on top of the motor. Great, that is going to be a pain to fix.. I find the freeze plug hiding on top of the motor, fished it out and put it in my tool box so I can get another one later.. So the motor will have to wait for another day, so I thought I would get the rear disks swapped (The guy wanted the brakes, so I swapped him for the discs on the back of the 86) Pop off the wheel on one side, and I notice that the disk is a lot thinner than it should be.. Great.. Upon closer inspection, the outside pas was missing, along with a good 16th of an inch of rotor.. Pulled everything off and the caliper was good, as was the bracket. Go around to the other side, same deal.. Outside pad missing, inside pad down to the metal backing plate, caliper and bracket still good... So Jessica is going to be emailing Mark and informing him of this :-) General consensus between Jessica and I is that he should at least send me either a new set of rotors, or my old ones, since I gave him a good set for a trashed set, sound about right to you guys? The freeze plug doesn't really bother me, unless this thing winds up haveing a cracked head...

hey Tex you gonna post those original pics, since they don't work :-P

Just swap it to a DR 5 speed and sell it :-P You've got enough parts out there Since that will have 23 spline axles (automatic) throw in a non-turbo DR 5 speed and a 3.90 rear diff and that puppy will MOVE :-) (Trust me, seen one with that setup that has NO PROBLEM getting sideways in 4 low :-))

I have no idea how much they cost, but my friend Brian was looking for 510 stuff (same rear diff as a Soob) and he found some place that has spools for the R160, which are a lot stronger than a welded diff....

I have a good tranny, but it's a 2WD tranny :-( Maybe they can swap the diff with the 4WD tranny? Only 4WD tranny I have has the same problem :-(

That's because, from what I have read, the CR-V can only send like, 30% of the power to the rear, rather than the 50% that the Subaru can send (if it's a manual, I think the autos can send up to 90% to the rear but I am not sure). Bottom line is they do fine in adverse road conditions, like wet or slick roads, but they are garbage on slush, sand, snow, mud, etc..

PM Mudrat79, I know he had a set for sale a while ago, I dunno if he still has 'em or not.. EVen if he doesn't, he probably knows where to get them from.

I would, but the black interior in this car is pretty much trashed. All the seats are ripped, the back door panels WERE good until some moron decided to rip the power window switches off and take half the door panel with it. The drivers rear panel is salvagable, as the window switch would hide the damage, but the passenger side rear panel is screwed, there's a big like 3" hole around where the switch used to be.... The guy I got it from got it from his neighbor, who had loaned it out, adn it came back thrashed :-( Prolly a buncha drunk rednecks that didnt know what they had :-(

Well, poking on it today, it has a rear sway bar, and so does the 86 sedan that's my GFs, cant tell iif one is bigger or not... BUT.. it doesn't have LSD :-( Got the motor transplanted, couldn't get one of the axle pins outta the 86 so it's still pushbutton for now, but it will hopefully be on the road tomorrow PS yes I am sending this car to the big junkyard in the sky when we're done with it, but it is too trashed to warrant rescuing :-(

see if it is still hard with the engine OFF

I've done it without swapping the crossmember. It doesn't hit the bellhousing, rather it hits the DOJ housing, well, at least it was AWFUL close on mine. The Steering wheel had a small amount of binding right in the center of its travel, but I never noticed any grinding or anything while driving. I'd assume you could cut the DOJ housing down a bit on a lathe and it wouldn't be a problem.

I figured it wasn;t an RX because of the air suspension (Granted, it's been removed, but it has the "HEIGHT" switch) but it still kinda threw me. Jessica ran the VIN through Carfax and if came back as a GL, and wouldn't a GL-10 have had a sunroof, or did they not have those in 85? What still has me puzzled is that it just says "SUBARU" on the back, doesn't say GL, GL-10, etc..) This is definately a weird car...

yeah but then you can't roll up next to ricers with it in the "HIGH" posistion and hit the switch and drop it down and be intimidating I'd personally like to tinker with a set of air struts and figure out why they fail and what I could do to prevent their failure...

Okay, went and picked up the 85 Turbo SEdan from Prineville today.. I get there and I see: *checkerboard interior * just says "SUBARU" on the trunk lid * Turbo * DUAL RANGE 5 SPEED * Remnants of the fin that was on the trunk lid Basically the car screams RX. I can't tell because the rear panel that says "4WD Turbo" where the RX sticker would be is missing. Here is what throws me, it has a digidash, height control, air conditioning, and power windows, which I didn't think RXes had. The VIN is JF2AC75B1FE217147 so is this an RX?? Could someone have ordered an RX with the above options? I was under the impression that the only other one that just said SUBARU on the back was a Turbo Traction, and those only came in autos if I am correct...