Hondasucks

my old boss had two dodge ram 2500 pickups with cummins turbo diesels, plus three bailers with Deutz Airdiesel air-cooled 4 bangers, all running 20W50 Amsoil Synthetic, and the trucks had been run with Amsoil since day 1, and the bailers I think since he bought them, one truck has almost 300k on it and it runs like a TOP, the other had not quite 180k and it would still shoot 4 rooster tails towing the bailer (Not that I'd know from experience, it was the unnamed stacker operator that took over for me one night who found that out...) The only problem with synthetic in and older car is that it will leak more. If you have no leaks, fine, but if you do, look out lol. Also, I recommend against using 10W40, use 15W40 or 10W30. In order to get the wide viscosity range of 10W40, they have to make the polymer chains really long, and so unless you are really anal about changing your oil, it will cause sludge build up. (Although a cup of diesel or a can of motor flush before each oil change will prevent this)

TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE CO is located at 1803 NE MLKing Blvd., Portland, OR 97212. Ph. 503-284-0768, 800-776-1191 These people are very helpful, I copied this off their web page (www.txchange.com) even if they don't have your parts, they might be able to tell you who does. Another good place to try is TranStar Industries, I do not know their website off the top of my head but they seem to have a large stock of parts (Hell, they have parts to repair the ECVT!)

Maserati Quattroporte

my turbowagon gets likle, 24 or so.. the 85 2WD carbureted turd gets 18.... grrr... Rabbit gets 38.9 in town :-)

Go borrow a car worth stealing, or get some junkbox (Make it look like you got some insurance $$$ and went out and splurged on a new car) and set up a camcorder and watch it, and wait for it to disappear.. If he already stole three cars, I'm sure he;'d come back for another...

Go down to Knecht's on 9th street (next to Al Hutchison Auto Center, and across from Randy Jones Chevrolet) and get a Haynes manual, they are only like 15 bucks and are a lot better than the Chiltons. If you can find a Clymer manual in a used book store those are good as well, I had one for my Datsun. I have one that is for a Subaru but it's 71-82, and I dunno if they have one for your car or not. Best bet is a Haynes from Knechts....

I think your pinging could possibly be caused by carbon deposits in your combustion chambers. The carbon acts as a sponge, soaking up some of the fuel and leaning it out, making it ping. I motorvac'ed my Legacy at like 185k and I swear it added another 15HP.. It only cost me about $20 to do it, but if your car is still under warranty, take that intake off and take it in and have them look at it.

okay well I changed my thermostat, and flushed my cooling system. The thermostat they gave me was a 180, which is what I took out.. Shouldn't it be a 195? STill showing the code, althugh the heater works better now, and it still runs too cold... Today I am going to look it up at school and see what I can find...

Okay here is the labeled pic. If I mis-labeled anything, or I left something out, feel free to PM me. Once I am satisfied that I didn't screw anything up, I will re-do it without resizing it afterwards so it is more reasonable. Bear with me, it's been almost 3 years since I've had one of these suckers apart, and I am gonna be needin to tear my part-time turbo 5 speed dual range down to rebuild it. No I did not just mess up I do mean PART TIME dual range TURBO tranny :-) As for the differential gears swapping, you cannot swap just the ring or just the pinion, they are a matched set and will chew each other up if swapped, especially between ratios. Since the pinion gear is part of the pinion shaft, about the onyl way to go would be to somehow cut the gear off one shaft and made it to another shaft...

yes you would need a pulse generator, but you could make a simple circuit with a 555 timer to drive the injectors. If you just hold them open you will burn them out.

I have a weber too, on the 4x4.. But no EA82 adaptor plate :-(

did you use sealant on your manifold gaskets? If ya didnt, or didnt get those sealed adequately, they will leak! The fact that you don't have water in your oil leads me to believe more along the lines of a cracked head or something like that, since most blown head gaskets I have seen have made a nice chocolate milkshake :-) Once I figure out why my 85 is only getting 18MPG I could come up and help you with the 88 and/or the 87, since you are prolly gonna give me a deal on that 88 anyway, I'd be more than happy to help ya out :-)

man with all those other parts on there it's kind of a Subamutt!

345,000 -- go post that on www.subaruhighmileageclub.com.. And where can I find a 100 dollar beater legacy.. my turbowagon needs an EJ22 :-)

I am not 100% sure, but I think that when the wire going to the sending unit is grounded, the gauge should read full, and the sending unit on those is on theback of the tank (look underneath and you will see a round thing with like, 8 phillips head screws holding it on, with a wire coming out of it, that is the sending unit. Pull the wire off and ground it, gauge should read full, apply 12V and it should read empty. it MIGHT read the other way around (ground = empty) but I am not positve. Turn the key on and unplug the wire and see if the gauge changes posistion... That would help to isolate whether it's the wire or the sending unit... Your tank could also somehow be full of water, if the tank is rusted out on top, which could be the case as much cancer as that thing has..

if you know someone with an exhaust gas analyzer, or if the testing station will let you do it, the idle mixture screw on teh carburetor can be tweaked to bring the idle CO % into spec, if everything else is in tune. The older carbs have a tamper pin you have to pull out before you can tinker with the screw, but my 85 doesnt have anything blocking it...

yeah check your choke, make sure the vacuum solenoid that pulls the choke open is working & is receiving vacuum, otherwise it will get bad mileage. Also, you could have a leaking accelerator pump or a leaking float valve, or a stuck float or somethign to that effect that is giving it too much fuel. Being that your car is 4WD it won't have the computer contolled carburetor, unless it is a California smogged model.

check www.oregonrally.com , under rallycross, for the regulations. I don't think they let you run in Production or Production GT with weight reduction but I am not sure. There is a Sprint that runs with a full roll cage, andthe back seat is cut around the roll cage, and someone told em that was because he has to keep the stock interior to run in that class.. You will most likely be running Production GT, since I think your adjusted displacement is too large for Production class. Also, Jon, the Justy motor is a 1.2 liter, not a 1.3, and it is not an EJ series motor, but an EF series motor.

oooh... All this cool stuff I get to buy for my turbowagon when I get $$$ and get it back on the road.... Stupid clutch....

IT's either wearing out, or a moron rebuilt it. I have a rebuild kit for it, I just don't really wanna be down a vehicle in case I screw the carb up, as I don't have another EA82 carburetor, adn teh boneyards want like, $50 for a damn carb...

Clocked my 85 wagon at 18 MPG.. I KNOW this is not right for a 2WD 5 speed! I have noticed that the temperature gauge reads way cold, like the car doesn't have a thermostat, adn I know that a cold engine requires more fuel than a warm one, so I'd think the computer would be adding fuel, but I wouln't think it would be THAT much.. I'm also still gettting a code 52, and I have no idea what to check/fix to get rid of the code.. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

well, you probably could swap it if the wiring is the same. If the wiring is different, it'd be easier to just go buy an aftermarket tach ($30-200) and put it in.

You dont' have LSD in the front Jon, the only car with a front LSD is an STi as far as I know, and the rear LSD well, I'm not sure about that one so I'll keep my mouth shut lol.. but yeah I think ya did good..

YEah, I think she needs another justy or other smaller Soob, not a big gas-gzzling Suburban, and just make sure she is careful from now on (as she more than likely will be!)

I know what gears teh low range gears are, I just didn't know which gear was low and which gear was high.. Also, the powerflow in 4th gear is not straight through since 4th gear is not 1:1 like it is in a lot of 4 and 5 speeds, rather it is an overdrive gear. (4th is .9 something to 1 if I remember correctly)