Hondasucks

Well, for those of us that dunno what all the parts do, I took the time to label the above diagram. Feel free to correct me if you see anything wrong. The one thing I didn't do was label which of the gears were high and low range, since I couldn't quite tell the power flow just from looking at the picture... AND SINCE THE ATTACHMENT limits for this thing SUCK EGGS I wasn't able to make it under 50k and still be readable, so tomorrow when my taters are less irked, I'll save it to my photo directory and link it from there, but it should be a very informative addition to the USRM :-)

I'll be around Sunday later in the day gimmie a call..

I about pooped a brick when I first saw this, cuz my name is also Andrew and although I have never scammed anyone, I have procrastinated on shipping stuff off lol (Still don't know if Shane ever got his grille..) but I at least had the decency to keep in touch....

man, if I had the $$$ to spare I would be TOTALLY down with this, as I wanna build the $&&$* outta my turbowagon!!!

don't rule out the gauge Josh, maybe this sunday or monday we can pull the access cover and check your sending unit. Gimmie a ring..

well that sucks, was gonna tell him hie could crash here if need be.... oh well.

might want to put some dynamat or something down after you take the stock stuff out, my hatchback was horribly noisy on the freeway without that insulation in there.

hmm.. Last night it started to miss real bad under load, but this morning it was fine, and all the way to Corvallis is was fine drivability wise, however the ECS light does still come on. Also, looking at the wiring, there is a four pin connector that goes to the carburetor, has two black wires, a red wire, and a blue wire, on the carburetor side of the plug. One of the black wires and the red wire, go to what I'm guessing is the anti dieseling solenoid, and the blue wire goes to the electric choke. The other black wire doesn't go anywhere, just has a wire nut over the end of it. Anyone have any idea where this one should go? I dont' have a carbureted EA82 to look at, and my manual is less than helpful. Is it just a ground for the carburetor or something???

Oil pressure gauge -- I think that the oil pressure switch is on the front of the block, near teh oil filter if I am not mistaken. Should be a round thing about an inch in diameter with a wire coming off of it, that drives the light on the dash (REmove and ground the wire wiht the engine running -- dash light should come on). REmove it , and you can tap your oil pressure gauge in there. Boost gauge: Find either a plugged port on the manifold, or T it into a vacuum line that comes out of the manifold. I recommend an Autometer gauge, they are a little expensive ($50 or so from Summit Racing Equipment) but they work good, I have one. I know they make a pillar pod for an Impreza, which is what I have, but it should fit the Legacy :-P

It could also be pinging due to carbon deposits in the cylinders, which can be expected for 150,000 miles. The carbon acts as a sponge, soaking up some of the fuel, leaning otu the mixture and making it ping. Try a bottle of Chevron Techron, it's about $8 for a bottle. If that doesn't work, you might want to look into having your fuel system cleaned, that will run about $80 but it will clean all the carbon out of the cylinders, and that should make it stop pinging. Worked on my Legacy...

Picked up an 85 2WD carbed wagon for free. I got it running, and it runs great, however the ECS light comes on after about 10 minutes of driving, and the ECM shows a code 52, which comes up in the list here as "Solenoid Valve Control System" Can anyone tell me where I need to look, the only manual I have for this car is NO help...

I'd say you get a nice fireworks show... MAybe a melted clutch cable?

well, I need an entire engine gasket set, not just the head set... I had good luck with the last gasket set I got from the parts bin, but I'm just curious if I can find one that is cheaper, or around the same price and better quality. Thank you guys for the contacts, I'll be sure to give them a call if I need anything...

I will be there too, doing crowd control with Jason.

The EJ18 is a 1.8 liter version of the EJ22. Looks like a smaller EJ22 basically. They also had an EJ16, but it wasn't available in the US. Notable differences are single timing belt, and distributorless ignition. I THINK the EJ18 is multivalve like the EJ22 but that I am not sure about.

no, 4WD needs 4WD discs, and 4WD discs won't work on an Ea71 cuz the splines are different, HOWEVER, Jason discovered that the FRONT disc's splines are the same, so that would work, you'd just have to figure out caliper mounting, etc...

I say keep the 83 and get it going good, and then look around for a legacy or something.. Good power, good reliability, and good on gas (the turbos aren't quite as good on gas as the legacies...) how is it running?? Havent' heard anything from ya since I fixed it for ya :-P

I am in need of a gasket set for an EA82T. The cheapest I have found so far is ~150 bucks from thepartsbin.com, does anyone know of any other places online I could get one? The cheapest I have found locally was 120 just for the head set! I looked on ebay, but the only one there was for a non-turbo :-(

The secondary fan comes on only with the AC, (Both MIGHT kick in when the temp sensor turns teh main fan on, but I am not sure) however, the secondary fan only kicks on if the headlights are off. I had a similar problem with my 83, someone had wired the second fan in as the main one, to kick on with the temp sensor, however, they wired it to teh sub fan relay, so the secondary fan would only come on if the temperature rose AND the heater switch was in AC or defrost, and the headlights were off.

so I was partially correct :-D

1/4 inch drive 6 point deep well 8mm Craftsman sockets work for gettting the bolts out, provided they are not stripped off (DO NOT try a 12 point socket, must be a 6 point and you gotta lightly smack it with a mallet to get it on all the way) but it will work, I have done it. The special tool is an inverted torx, but you need one that will fit inside teh hole in the shaft, which most that I have seen do not.. Dunno where the tool could be aquired aside from a Subaru dealer. Maybe some deep creep, or other penetrating oil would help???

"all NA cars were 3.90, all turbo cars were 3.70 didn't matter if they were auto, stick, 2wd or 4wd.." No, 2WDs are 3.70, regardless of being auto or stick. Also, all turbos are 3.70, regardless of being auto or stick.. Also, all 4WD manuals are 3.90, and ALL AUTOS SHOULD BE 3.70, so, perhaps someone put the wrong rear diff in your car, which could be what is wrong with your transmission! On a side note, the STD hatchback, FWD 4 speed, were 3.545:1....

Yet more evidence as to why Russ/Jon need to LOG OUT.. Might hve more luck on the Impreza board...

Hey Mike, that IS your wing :-P Traded Jon for his XBOX...

You are NOT SOL, you can take him to court. Granted, he is not a business, so some of the laws don't apply, but you can still take him to court, etc etc etc