Hondasucks

I vote for putting it on a quick disconnect. And forget the sleeve business, it's onyl one bolt and a clamp thinger that holds the sway bar to the strut rod.. I took the one out of my 77 wagon, and soon put it back in cuz the handling sucked. My 84 never had one, someone pulled it out in the wrecking yard whare it was at before I rescued it, and I never went and got the mounts and the bar, and it handled like C R A P.. like a 35 MPH corner that any one of my other cars could take at 55, I HAD to take at 35 in it or I thought I Was gonna roll! Worked GREAT off road though!

ACtually, the modulator is about 15 bucks.. must depend on where you go... Also, those years of vehicles had a problem with the PCV system that would cause it to suck oil into the intake on hard right turns, that could be the problem as well.

yeah if it's still under warranty, go get it fixed!!! but if not, have you checked the filter?? That might be the external filter (They are kinda spendy, but I do NOT buy the 100,000 mile filter change interval AT ALL...)

I never had any problems with either of my webers clearing, neither my 32/36 with the tall filter, or my 28/36 with a short filter, and the car that the webers were in was not lifted...

OK so my buddy got this 83 2WD sedan with a dead ignition module. Tows it down from Hood River, drops it at my house so today we could work on it. Put the new distributor in, and it ran like a top, so we drove it down to the gas station to top off the fuel tank, and abotu halfway there the radiator cap that wasnt' put back on tight popped off, and warped off to that same place that socks go to. So we limped it back to my house, and pulled the radiator out (So that we'd be sure to get the proper cap) and off to the parts store we went. While we were there, we grabbed some antifreeze, a thermostat, and a T-stat gasket. Got the T stat in and started pouring in the water, and it started to leak water out. Great, the gasket must have slipped. Took a look.. Nope, the damn gooseneck is cracked.. No worries, I grab another one from a parts manifold I had, and slap it on.. Hose won't clear the stupid P/S pump.. Turns out the P/S equipped cars have a longer T-stat housing.. So I JB Welded it, hopefully it will work, but if it does not, I will be needing either a T Stat housing, or someone with a TIG welder... On the good side, at least my Rabbit now has two tail lights and a shift knob :-) so I got SOMETHING accomplished today...

Make sure you get one with a pressure regulator, that way you can control the pressure. Light pressure works great for taking surface rust off of chrome (Without damaging the chrome) and then for heavy rust etc.. you can turn the pressure up...

I wonder if there is a resistor pack in there somewhere, I know on most GM vehicles with electronic speedometers, since they only use one speedo unit (different face though..) for most of their cars, there is a resistor pack under teh dash somewhere that tells teh onboard computer what size tire is on the car. So a Cavalier (yeech!) and a Silverado can have the same speedo unit.. Anyhoo, you can get aftermarked boxes to re-calibrate those, I wonder if the Soobs have a similar setup (since they prolly share speedos, but not tire sizes..) Also, my auto instructor said that he heard somewhere that GM was purposely calibrating their speedometers to read faster than the actual speed, to get the car outta warranty faster. The recalibration boxes are kinda hard to find, since GM had sued several of the manufacturers, fearing people would set their Cavalier to have 40 inch tires, so the warranty period would last longer.....

you could have a loose plug wire, or in the wrong order. The Legacy uses a "Waste spark" DIS, so one loose wire will actually kill the spark to two cylinders.

I just put some Permatex 2 non-hardening sealer around the gasket (a thin coat of course) on both sides, and then installed the adaptor plate. No leaks so far...

Makes me want to go kick the crap out of the guy who crushed the 70 ff-1 4 door that was in the junkyard I got my 84 wagon from, the DAY BEFORE I came out there with cash in my hand to buy it. It even ran, just needed suspension work. The rear quarter window on the driver's side was gone, and the front turn signals were cracked, but that was it.. Still looking for another...... GRRRRRRRRR I read somewhere that they made an ff-1 1300G Sport that had, get this, NINETY SIX horsepower.. Same as the EA81 Turbo...

EA82 Headers and perty much everything mentioned so far.. Performance wires, etc.. ooo clear dizzy caps.....

make sure you shift it through all the gears, pausing in each one, and then back to park.

Give your linkages a good spray down with carb cleaner, and then some good quality spray lube, then adjust your timing and idle speed. Might need to add a throttle return spring, it helped on my car.

as far as I know, the spider intake came on the XT and XT Turbo, 87 and up.

"The L series engines can be found in 1973-1982 Datsun P/U's and cars that are a model 510-610-710" The L series motor can be found in the trucks too, the 521 in 72, the 620 from 73 to 79, the 720 in 1980 ONLY, and then for teh cars not sure the years.. The gen1 510 was only made from 68-73 and are hard to come by in the yards, and I am not sure what years the 610 and 710 were made... They did make a 510 in 78-80something, but I am not sure what motor it had. I do know the trucks though: 73 had the L16 (1.6 liter) 74 had the L18 75 had the L20B (highest output L20B at 112HP) 76-80 also had the L20B, but wiht the HP output declining due to emissions (79 L20B had 98 HP, compared with teh 73 L16 which had 97).. When looking on these cars, look on the side of the heads for the casting numbers. If you see "219" or "912" on the side of the head (or "A87" on the side with "219" cast into the front of the head, near the inspection plate) that is an SSS head and if you can get it out of the yard for a decent price, get it, it's worth about 300 bucks. Also the A87 is a desirable head as most of them are closed chambered, and they also have the largest intake and exhaust ports of all the heads except the 219 SSS head. I say this cuz in case anyone stumbles across one of these, they are worth some $$$.. Also, Offenhauser made a weber manifold for the L series four and six cylinder engines, which are worth about 50-100 bucks if you happen to find a Datsun with one of those manifolds, grab it, could pay for your weber :-P Most of the six-cylinder L series motors (found in the 240, 260, and 280Z (Not the 280ZX, fuel injected) are either fitted with dual side draft carbs ($$$) or a single hitachi, and a lot of these can be found with webers as well... Not like I was a Datsun freak before I got into soobs or anything......

I dunno I see a lot more hyundais and dodges in the shop at the subaru/hyundai/dodge/jeep dealer than I do Subarus, except for the soobs in the oil change bay. It's prolly safe to assume that for every one person on here that has some problem with their soob, there are prolly 10 who don't. But I do agree, they sure don;t make them like they used to.

well, although you could ORDER a soob with LSD (There is a white 88 or 89 wagon rolling around Albany wiht LSD, and it is non-turbo, manual tranny) the only ones that came stock with the LSD were the RX and some of the turbowaogns, 89 I if my memory serves me correctly. Best bet is to get an LSD rear end and have a shop swap the ring and pinion over to 3.90. Unless you feel like trying to find a 91 legacy turbo, those I believe were a viscous 3.90 LSD...

yeah now that I think about it that car might be a turbo, I couldn't tell cuz the motor was gone as was teh hood and trunk lid. I don't have a legacy knuckle in my car, I'm still running the XT6 knuckle, but I think I will be going up and picking up the calipers and the one crossdrilled rotor for later use :-)

Congrats Jamie, now go get that Soob muddy lol :-P

Color me %*%*ing stupid, but what is this "Cutoff" you speak of???

From what I was told, anything for the Impreza suspensionwise WILL work on a legacy EXCEPT the rear sway bar, as it won't clear the spare tire well.

That seems about a good price, I remember looking at a set of lowering springs for my Legacy and they were like, 240 I think for all 4. I have XT6 stuff in my car, but I still have the stock rear coils, any chance you can get XT6/Legacy springs for the front, with the EA82 springs for the rear? If so I'd be interested..

And for some reason or another, either I did something wrong, or my wagon is weird, because nobody else has had the problem I had. I had to re-drill my front crossmember because the XT6 uses a bigger bolt to attach the control arm to the crossmember than what my wagon had. Does anyone know if an XT6 crossmember would bolt into my wagon??? It's either that or do some grinding and hammering on either the control arm or the crossmember, and I've never been a big fan of grinding and hammering suspension components.

Found a legacy in the junkard around here (Not saying where ya vultures!) and it has one crossdrilled rotor on it ( the other is missing) but both sides up front still have the calipers, and they are two piston. -> What are they off of? (The car they are on is a gen 1 legacy) -> Will they fit my Turbowagon with its 5 lug conversion -> If so, do I just need teh calipers or do I need anything else?

Well, let me know when your flight would be coming in, pitch in a lil bit for gas + airport parking (1.50 half hour) and I can come get ya and take ya back to the airport. I am prolly gonna stay up in Portland the night before, not sure. Either way, I'm only an hour from the airport, and the airport is about an hour and a half from where the show is.