Hondasucks

My sister (Caboob's Pink Martini) lives in Spanish Fork, but she doesn't have a Roo (yet), I know there is one guy in Salt Lake, forget his name, but I was gonna sell him a tranny a while ago until his parents backed out wiht the money, and there is another guy who lives down around Bryce Canyon.

Problems like this make me glad I don't drive automatics. I'm not sure where the computer gets it's signal from that tells it when the axle is slipping and it needs to engage the AWD, perhaps if it gets it from the ABS tone rings one of them could be bad? but I'm not sure. Computers have a way of getting confused sometimes too...

You know McIntosh builds like, some of the best audio components money can buy, right? If I were you I'd leave the head unit and just upgrade teh sub. I wasn't overly impressed with the amount of bass that it put out, btu I was extremely impressed with the quality of the sound that it produced. I could HEAR it more than I could feel it, but I could hear teh sound, not everything in the car resonating.

I think it is time for a "If you don't like my driving stay off the sidewalk" sticker Brian

Dude, one thing, ditch the Fram garbage filter and go with a Purolator Pure One (same as OEM Subaru) or a genuine Subaru filter. The lifter noise is caused by several things some of them are: O rings in the heads going out Pressure releif valve springs getting weak Going oil pump bad oil pump seals gunk built up in the lifters

A friend of mine has an 87 carbureted EA82 wagon and she started having some cooling system issues with it this morning. She drove it to her school, which is about a mile from her house, adn she said abotu halfway there her temperature gauge was nearly pegged, and then when she pulled into the parking lot and parked, it went back down to normal. After class, she dumped like a half a gallon of water into it, and started it up, everythign seemed normal except for the antifreeze dripping from the tailpipe. She also said there was a puddle underneath it that was abotu the size of a fist, that was brown in the middle and black on the edges, but I had her check her dipstick and her oil was not foamy or milky or anything. I am leaning towards a cracked head, since I know those like to crack in the exhaust ports. Any ideas on finding which is cracked other than dropping the exhaust and watchign for drips? I have a good passenger side head, but if her driver's side head is bad, does anyone on here have a carb EA82 head they'd be willing to part with???

try some wagon struts, I replaced the completely shot rear struts in my 91 with wagon struts, and they made it sit about 1" or so higher in the rear (muffler tips didn't scrape anymore)

I drove my 91 Legacy LS AWD 5 speed back from Utah last march, did 90+ the whole way until I hit Oregon, no problem. Got a few miles to the gallon less at 95 than it did at 75 but not as bad as Ahna's Hyundai (38 MPG @ 75 vs. 30 @ 95, where the legacy went from 30@75 to 28 @ 95)

You can get a new cap from the dealer for like 6 bucks or so.

really? I was told on here before that the oil seals in the turbos are inside teh water channels, and would leak into teh water when they went bad? If it is the seals, it's all good, I have a connection with a guy who has a turbo shop, so I can get my turbo rebuilt for like, $150 bucks.

Ok Got some problems with my 87 Turbowagon. When I stand on it and get it up to about 5500 RPM or so, it starts to lightly puff white smoke. The first time I noticed it was on the freeway, and I thought it might be rings, since it was night and all I saw was smoke, but couldn't tell what color it was. Did it today to see, and saw that it was white. Any ideas??? I'm about to tear it down and re-seal it as soon as I get my 4x4 back up and running, and would like to fix it if possible.

Sounds like you burnt up the transfer clutch. Somehow might have also toasted teh 4WD solenoid but I dunno. I have a brand new transfer clutch in my garage, $20 and it's yours, but you'll have to tear the tranny apart to change it.

it's your seatbelt timer, it makes teh chime and the "Fasten belts" light come on for a preset amount of time unless the driver's belt is buckled. You don't need it.

I've got a Tamiya model of the 98 WRC car, my former Pink Martini got for me for Christmas last year, still sitting in the box cuz I haven't gotten paint for it yet, and they are a lot easier to paint with the parts still on the little tree thinger. It's gonna be p1mp sh1znit when I get it built though :-)

Well the 86 XT I sold a few months ago has developed headlight problems. The guy says every now and then the headlights will just go dead. They usually don't stay dead, they come back on, but he's afraid they're going to shut off and stay off. Is this a common problem on XTs? Is it the headlight relay? If so, where would I find it? The dash lights and what not stay on though, just the headlight wig out.

Automatics are generally ok, if you get one that has been maintained. IF it hasn't been, it will die. Here are some things to check if you look at an auto car: First off, check the fluid, Pull the dipstick out, the fluid should be red. If it's brown, or smells really rank, it's burnt, which means either someone got it stuck and sat there rocking it back and forth, stalling the torque converter and generating a lot of heat, or something is slipping, generating a lot of heat. Either way, it's been abused. If it's reddish-brown in color, not a nice, bright red, it's probably just dirty and needs to be changed. Frothy fluid is a sign of overfilling, and milky foamy fluid is a sign of coolant in the transmission, caused by a corroded transmission cooler (It's part of the radiator) Second thing to do is a stall test. Start up the car. Put it in drive range with your foot firmly planted on the brake. Mash the throttle to the floor and watch the tach. Don't hold it for longer than three seconds, and then let it idle for about 5-10 minutes to let teh fluid cool back down. The tach should go up to about 1500 RPM or so and stay there. If goes any higher, especially if it quickly revs to 3-4000 RPM, the transmission is slipping, and you'll want to stay away from it. Try this in D, 2, L and Reverse. Another thing that goes out on these trannies is the seal between the transmission and the front differential. Pull the dipstick out of the front diff, and make sure it's not red, also make sure that the tranny fluid does not smell of gear oil. If eitehr one is the case, that seal is shot, and the differential is not long behind it. Also drive it around, listen for strange noises, shift quality, etc. In second or third gear, flooring the throttle should cause the tranny to downshift. Mash the throttle from a standstill, and listen to the shift quality, should be firm and smooth, with no "flare" between gears. White smoke from the tailpipe, can be a sign of a bad vacuum modulator, they're about 10 bucks. Mine had a bad one of these, if you kept the transaxle full, it would fill a city block with thick white smoke. Bottom line is, automatics aren't that bad, but sticks are more reliable and get better gas mileage. Automatics ARE picky about maintenance though, if you aren't anal about changing the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles, it won't last past about 150,000.

My buddy Mike on the board is from The Dalles, I'm surprised he hasn't said anything.. I have an 82 GL sedan as well, it used to be a front wheel drive automatic, now it's a 4 wheel drive 4 speed :-) How many miles are on it? If it's got over 100,000 go check out http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com and add your car to the registry.

I have a good ideal, since our club is so diversified, and it's a huge load on Jamie, etc...., how about we kinda splut the club into several "chapters", have some of the NASIOC guys take care of teh new gen chapter, and some of us take care of teh old school stuff. I'm sure if we split the responsibility up, and I'm sure there are people on here who are willing to help, since it's really too diversified for 2 or 3 people to manage. I just think it'd work better that way.

my page is at http://www.geocities.com/falc0n420 webshots album http://community.webshots.com/user/hondasucks1982

Check your MAF, I know on my 87 Turbowagon if I unplug the MAF it won't rev over 3500 RPM. Your MAF could be toast and your computer is in "limp mode" The MAF is the sensor that is attached to your air cleaner box, you still have that sensor right??

Dammit why does everyone else seem to get deals on Brats, and I CAN NEVER FIND ONE :madder: :temper: :madder: :temper: :madder: :temper: :madder: :temper:

dammit why does everyone get a Brat but me :temper: :temper: :temper: :temper: :temper:

yeah civics don't hold up to soobs. MY firends mom got rear-ended in her 88 GL wagon by a Civic at like 35MPH, it tweaked the bumper down a bit, and totaled teh Honda :-P

My 91 had issues, turned out it was a combination of a bad sunroof control unit (Junkyard time!) and a bad sunroof switch panel thinger, Replaced both of those and it worked just fine. Man I wish my 87 Turbowagon had a sunroof....

I know of a guy who works at the Ford dealer in corvallis that is a diagnostician, be works 2 days a week and makes over a hundred grand a year. IF you are good at diagnosing stuff, it might be something to look into :-)