Hondasucks

Check the balance shaft, the guy i work with (Who remembers the original 3-lug Justies that all got recalled!) says a bad or out-of-time balance shaft will make the engine make all sorts of noise. But Justy engines are pretty easy to yank and rebuild.

sweet! Yeah, check all the valves and stuff, you should be able to activate the air suspension and be able to find a leak, if none of the bags are leaking, use a soapy water solution and a spray bottle to spray the junctions and such, probably just a leaky o-ring, which are pretty easy to replace, in some cases you can take them apart and oil the o-rings and put it back together and they will work, not always though. As for the struts, if you want them to last, put the car in HIGH mode and clean the shaft real good where the bag rides, and the plate it rests on (make it smooth), and then coat it with silicone grease. The problem is the bag wears the paint off, which causes it to rust, and the rust eats through the rubber.

alternator goes out and cooks the dash. But the cooked part is some sort of voltage regulator or something. I had an 83 with the digidash, and every now and again it would randomly work perfectly, so don't assume just because you get a BEEEEEEEEP that the dash is completely hosed. I need to go dig my digidashes out and tinker with them again, since they are pretty stinkin neat when they work.

Just looked them up for the SVX, $24.95 each For that price I better get 45 MPG and another 100 HP. Would be curious to see some real world, third party dyno numbers on these...

Check all the o-rings on the hose junctions at the valves and such, the subie tech at my work says he's seen plenty of cars with "bad" air suspension that are just leaky o-rings. Easy enough to swap to springs though. Don't know about outrunning, but those will outhandle an SVX according to a guy on the SVX board.

I know some guys who might be interested in a forced induction grind for the EG33, might want to start a thread over at http://www.subaru-svx.net... I bed Tom has a set of cams he could guinea pig up...

That 425 psi is probably the pressure at which the overpressure valve blows.

Don't charge it to 40, you could overcharge the system. Best thing to do is get a set of manifold gauges so you can monitor the high side pressure, should be about 150-200 depending on ambient temperature. Overcharging the system can damage the compressor, and they run about $400 You should be good with a low side pressure of around 30 lbs.

I need a driver's marker light for an SVX if anyone sees one Also need both headlights, center grille piece, and driver's fender. The fender isn't a priority though unless it is pearl white, as that is the color of my SVX. Will pay w/ paypal. Hopefully I can get a good deal this way, since I don't want to spend an arm and a leg lol, but if they still want a crapload, the only thing I REALLY need at the moment is the corner light with the bulb socket and pigtail.

You have to separate the extension housing to get the nut off the pinion shaft, the ring and pinion are a matched set and are NOT interchangeable.

Also check the fusible links, I forget exactly where they are on an EA81 car, but they are in a little black box, should be two green and one red, or two red and one green, I can't remember exactly... Also, be careful with the contact cleaner, some of it is harmful to plastic and will melt your connectors.

Sounds pretty bad rump roast, but there is no such thing as a bike (or trike) that is too loud!

Let me know next time you find an SVX in the junkyard up there, I need a driver's side corner light.

Let me know if you need any interior bits, I have a complete wrecked 94 base model, 1.8 FWD 5 speed, need the rear end stuff for the wife's assmunched 93 L... How much for shipping for the Altezza lights? And/or the rear bumper? or did you not swap that out? (I'm too lazy to dig back and look...)

Yeah, I never quite got those: Guigiaro design Lotus handling Peugeot engine Like they put all the money into the CAR and didn't have enough left to put a decent engine in the thing!

They aren't hard to do, is it a twin cam or single cam? If its a twin cam, pull the valve covers first, and then pull the plugs out, they are easier to get to with the valve cover off. Should be able to get the gaskets at the subaru dealer. The one sided head gasket repair stems from the fact that Subaru will only pay for the side that's leaking, so unless both sides are leaking, only one side will get replaced. (At my dealership we usually try and sell the customer the other side at the same time, since it's cheaper to do them both at the same time than it is to do one now and one later)

Doesn't really matter if you get it DONE at a dealer, but make sure you get the new one from the dealer, as the aftermarket ones are crap. It's a pretty easy job (One bolt and a connector) but it's kind of hard to get to, adn it can be pretty tricky to get the new one in there, I'd take it to the Subie dealer, for the extra $ for labor (Not sure what shop rate is there, here it's $85, and the knock sensor is a 1/2 hour job) it's worth it to not have to muck with it.

O rings, yes, but the oil that coats the inside of the hoses will seal the pores in the hoses, preventing the refrigerant from seeping out. (Even when it does seep out, it's to the tune of about a half a pound a year ($2.50) so it's not really worth it. You don't have to charge the system with nitrogen either, number one, when you pull a vacuum, if it will pull to 30 inches of vacuum, you don't have any leaks, all but the most miniscule leak and it won't pull to 30 inches, nor will it hold 30 inches for very long. Number two, if it won't pull to 30 inches, you pressurize the system with about a half a pound of refrigerant and use a sniffer. Thirdly, you don't pull a vacuum for several hours, you only need to pull a vacuum for 20 minutes or so, and then close the valve to the pump and watch the gauges to make sure that the system holds vacuum. Putting the system together is not difficult, it's just time consuming. "Equipped for installation of optional AC" means that the wiring is there, more or less. There are rubber plugs in the firewall to run the lines, but none of the AC components are there. You'll need all the lines, compressor, bracket, condensor, and evaporator. Buy a new receiver/dryer from the dealer, they are not that expensive ($75), buy a set of R134a compatible O rings, and put the system together,along with a set of R134a retrofit fittings. Once it's all together, then take it to the Subaru dealer and have them evacuate and charge the system. Should only cost ~$160 or so, well worth it to have the job done right. If that's too much jingle, and you feel confident in your mechanical abilities, you can evacuate it and charge it yourself, but the price of getting it done at the dealership is probably about the same as buying a set of manifold gauges and such (They are the best way since they let you see what is happening on both sides of the system, and a good set will run about $120-$150).

Are you holding the button down on the security module? If you don't keep holding it after the horn beeps, it won't program. You have to press the button until the horn beeps 3 times, and then KEEP IT HELD and press the button on the remote. I had the same problem on a car at work.

Reset the mileage readout, since the cars are started and stopped so many times prior to delivery, the mileage readout is way off. When I do PDIs (Pre-Delivery Inspections) on the new Subies, they always read like 4-10 MPG, but if I reset it before I do the 5 mile test drive, it will show 18-20 mpg by the time I get back to the dealership.

I converted my 90 Legacy over to R134a and it worked just fine. I wouldn't try to do it yourself though, you need to pull a vacuum on the system in order to get all the water out, and I'd recommend replacing the O-Rings in the system, although it's not 100% necessary. If I were you, I'd take it to the dealer and have them evacuate the system to get all the R12 out, then they will install the O-Rings and R134a fittings, and charge the system with R134a and the proper oil. Air conditioning work, although not all that difficult, if you don't have the proper tools, you can easily break or damage components that are costly to repair, so it's best left to a professional. You might be able to get it done at an air conditioning shop, too, I don't know what your dealership charges, but the dealership I work at, we charge an hour to an hour and a half for an evac and recharge, plus refrigerant. Subies take about a pound and a half or so, at about $5 a pound, plus PAG oil ($5-10), O-rings (~$6), and the retrofit fittings (~$8)

I'll drag my bike along too, I have to get that thing in to the bike shop for a tuneup though, it sat outside while I was in Wyoming and even though it was under a cover, the bearings and chain rusted Gotta get a new tire for my wife's bike too, her brother tried to bunny hop it and blew the tire out and bent the rim lol

Let me know if ya need any advice, and I think I have some Gen1 parts layin around, but I think they are stage 2, with the exception of the side markers and front turn signals I have floating around the parts shed. Do post some pics, that thing looks bad rump roast! There was a 74 DL sedan in the junkard here a LONG time ago, had been sandwiched, but it was the same color as that one.

Well, latest estimate was $3800, so chances are it'll get totaled. It's looking like this one is going to get fixed with parts from the white 94, since the 94 is a base model and has like NO options, so among other things I'll have a good 2WD EJ18 drive train for sale (5 speed)

I've seen that guy too, CMiller moved to Tigard. There is a bright red one that I've seen around, and the other day I saw a red and gray one, I THINK it was an EA81 though... lol I have one myself, but it's tags are expired so it's sitting in the garage at mom and dad's house. (It's turbo diesel so I'm sure some hippie will snatch it up once I sell it)