Hondasucks

Subaru now has a fuel system cleaner package that includes a top end cleaner, we just got them along with some special tools at my dealership. The EFI cleaner is pretty slick, it's a can of cleaner that you thread into a regulator that is attached to the fuel rail, no external pressure source needed. I'm pretty sure the components are available separately, check your local Subie dealer.

I work at a Subaru dealer

It's actually worse than it looks in the pics, the quarter is crumpled too. The wife took some pics today which she's in the process of uploading, I'm still debating whether to fix this one with parts from the other car, or fix the other car with parts from this one. The other one is smashed in the front pretty good but the core support and stuff is easier to hide with other parts if you get it on crooked I suggested the jimmy rig tail light thing, since I have a Camry tail light floating around my pile of parts, but she didn't want it fixed ghetto style so for now I'm driving the 90 Cressida that's supposed to be a fix and sell lol (Just put a new head gasket, timing belt, and water pump in it) and she's driving my 90 Legacy wagon, since she won't let me drive the SVX until I fix it, and I can't fix it until I get the 86 turbo sedan painted and her turbo legacy running lol (Boy am I glad she wasn't driving that one, or the SVX for that matter...)

Wife stopped for a yellow light, 1 ton GMC behind her didn't. She's okay but the car's probably gonna get totaled, although I'm gonna buy it back if it does, since I need the front end for a 94 Impreza I have at mom & dad's that was crunched in the front... And since I can already see the vultures circling, yes, I do plan on selling the parts I don't use before I send the rest to the scrapyard.

I'll be in Portland until Wednesday for Subaru school, out by the airport, if anyone wants to hang out. Cell # is 541 990 8697

Thats what configuration my wife's 93 Impreza has, it doesn't do too bad down here at sea level, but it was a total turd when we lived in Wyoming at 7200' lol, climbing over the summit between Laramie and Cheyenne consisted mostily of 3rd gear wrapped out to redline. I seem to remember reading something about the FWD cars having a 3.54:1 final drive, which would explain the gutlessness, since the EJ18 is only like 107 HP.

The ones I have, in all of them the same part (a voltage regulator) is burnt up, and the displays are vacuum fluorescent... I have ONE working one and a whole box of fried ones, but IIRC the box of fried ones is sitting in my 4x4 that I need to go get...

I've got an 86 GL-10 turbo sedan with 319,000 on it, original motor.

lol yeah I work at John and Phil's, I don't think we're hiring at the moment but wouldn't hurt to turn in a resume. There are quite a bit of us Subie gues down here, unfortunately I think there is only one other board member that posts regularly that lives here (GLoyale).

EJ22s only have one belt Got mine running good now too, just have to finish plumbing a few vacuum lines.

I've got a good front diff if you get it, I bought my 92 for $800 with a cooked tranny, 1300 does seem a little steep BUT it is a 94, which is a little rarer than the 92. Check out http://www.subaru-svx.net

I'd fight it. Was anyone warned about using the internet at work?

Use the hole up top, stuff a rag down in there so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall down inside the bell housing, and use a telescoping magnet to get the bolt in. Once you get a bolt in, thread it in like 2 or 3 turns and rotate the engine and put the next one in, then once all 4 are in, tighten them. If you tighten one before all 4 are in, usually the last one won't go in.

That was my guess, since most 4 cylinder cars can run with a signal from the crank sensor and not the cam, since there are only two possibilities of what cylinder #1 is doing when the crank sensor sees TDC, top of compression or top of exhaust, but not with the cam and no crank, since the cam sensor usually just shows TDC of the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder, and the ECU won't know anything else besides that so it won't know when to fire anything else which is why your car won't start, the ECU has no idea what angle the crank is at, so it has no clue when to fire the spark.

It will bolt up, you'll just need to get the pigtail from the junkyard (the newer ones have a connector right on the sensor itself) to connect to your existing wiring.

I'll look it up at work tomorrow I think you have to snap the dash trim out like on the 1st gen Legacies, with hidden screws in the vents and stuff. Not 100% sure though cuz I've never had to yank the cluster out of a Camry.

The single connector wire is the knock sensor, the other two are your cam and crank sensors. I don't know exactly which is which, but BOTH of them were hashed on my 91 turbo legacy, had to trace the wiring back to the ECU with my DVOM to figure out which one was which. I have the diagram around here somewhere from the FSM, but it sounds to me like you have one as well. I had to go to the junkyard and cut the connector off a car in the yard and splice them in. The single pin connector for the knock sensor is a sheilded cable on one end, make sure you don't tie the center wire (signal) to the outer shield, or the ECU won't get a signal from the knock sensor, and it will throw a code and it'll run a retarded timing map.

Are you meaning the wire to the coil itself, under the hood? Wire it to the tach signal wire under the dash that goes to the cluster, I don't have my FSM handy so I don't know what pin it is on the connector to the cluster.

Uhaul, the Jiffy Lube of trailer hitches. I watched one of their droids spend 25 minutes fixing the wiring on a trailer I rented.... to repair like, one wire lol, for the license plate bulb...

The difference is whether or not the car had factory AC. One type of pump the fan hub bolts to the water pump istelf, with the same bolts that hold the pulley on, with the other type, the pulley is bolted to the hub on the water pump, and the fan is bolted to the pulley. (These have a "cap" that is bolted to the pulley) Problem is, I do not know which one is which hub type.

Youll need a 4WD gas tank, rear suspension, trans, etc.. it all pretty much bolts in. The only thing I had to weld in was the 2WD cars don't have the mounting bracket for the 4WD shifter, but it's relatively simple to cut it out of the donor car and weld it into the proper place in the car you are converting. That was really the only part that was a PITA, that and the fuel tank since it has like 12 lines going to the top of it.

Lookin good! I can't wait to see this one finished.

Is it possible that in your swapping you didn't get the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator?

Those are pimp! Not the ultrapimp heated leather, but still cool! What shape is the rest of the car in? Post some details so I can post it on the SVX board.

Try http://www.civicforums.com (I think that's it, google "Civic forum" if it doesn't work) Sounds to me like you got a bubble in the cooling system that didn't get bled out. I don't know a whole lot about Hondas, but I know some Subarus and some Toyotas have a bleeder screw/plug that you have to take out while you are filling the cooling system or it gets air in it.