2X2KOB

He's right - don't accept this, it's not right. Keep taking it back until they fix it. The least they can do is throw in a new knock sensor, or plugs, or something. I've had the same problem for the last five years on a 2000 OBW, the dealer said "use better gas". I should have pushed him to fix it then, but I didn't. I'm going to try cooler plugs and see if that helps. Note that the BOOK says it should run fine on 87 octane, but we have to buy 89. I don't like this much.

Do you have a voltmeter/DC ammeter? If not, perhaps a trip to the local Autozone or equivalent, where they have things like battery and alternator testers and people who will use them for free, would be advisable. I'd say you have at least a dead battery, and possibly a dead alternator or a short somewhere that is draining the battery. If you have a voltmeter/DC ammeter and know how to use it a little bit, we can discuss further driveway troubleshooting steps for happy fun good time electical success story! Also please include year/make/model/car details...

Thanks for the update - glad you got it figured out!

You just take off the crossbars - the rest of it stays.

One of our 2000 Outback wagons has the rear spoiler, the other does not. It doesn't make any difference as to the wind noise, I don't think.

If it was mine, I think I'd like to see what ALL the codes were. Next, I'd get the wiring diagram, and make sure the wiring between the OBDII port and the ECU was good. If that wiring checked out, then I'd probably get a junkyard ECU to swap in and see what happens. Like Wayne said, that's too many codes to be believed, and the fact that they don't go away when the battery is disconnected also points toward a funky ECU.

The VIN breakdown sheet that I got from techinfo.subaru.com shows a single option for the engine code, and it's a "6", which matches my VIN. Guess that clears that up. I'm glad to hear that the head gasket problem should be cured on this engine. Thanks -

Technical Service Bulletin 1510401 addresed this wind noise problem on some of the Outbacks. I think the fix was to add some vinyl tape to cover an open slot on the bottom side of the crossbars. Sorry I can't find a direct link to the real TSB - It's probably in alldata.com or techinfo.subaru.com $omewhere. I'm pretty sure I saw it on mycarstats.com.

No easy fix, then. Scratch that plan!

Perhaps you should try reading the codes again with a different type code reader, or disconnecting the battery for awhile to reset the ECU. I'd be interested to know what happens if you try these things.

Good tip there - Thanks

Maybe that's why some people run the new cooler in series with the existing radiator trans cooler - puts a little heat into the fluid on really cold days.

2000 Legacy Outback wagon, SOHC 2.5, 4EAT On http://www.partsamerica.com, when selecting the vehicle/engine type, I get two choices for the engine: H4 2.5 Liter FI EJ252 2458 cc VIN 6 -or- H4 2.5 Liter FI EJ251 2458 cc How can I tell which type is the right answer? What's the diff between an EJ251 and an EJ252? Is this the series I and II 2.5's I've been reading about? Does this mean that some 2000 OB's came with the DOHC 2.5?

Is it possible to "over-cool" the transmission fluid, or is this a case of, the cooler the better? I'm thinking about zero degree winter days.

SO how do you install one of these - make it so the fluid goes through the factory radiator first, then the external cooler, or the other way around? And how do you tell which direction the fluid flows through the lines?

00 OBW - mine broke with about 75K on it. Broke at the sharp bend right where it exits the bushing on the frame, driver's side. I took it off and welded it back together and it's been OK since, a couple years now. As far as I know, there was no exceptional event that caused it to break.

It is my personal opinion that regular antifreeze changes can help one to avoid the headgasket problem, and other radiator problems. I like to change it every two years, dilute 60/40 it with distilled water, and use the coolant treatment from the dealer, which costs less than two bucks. I don't know if this will prevent head gasket problems, but it certainly can't hurt.

Never been to Pep Boys (not in my neighborhood) but their website design is stupid enough to piss off the Good Humor man.

Thanks for the tip, Wayne. With that pesky P0420 code some of might be in the market for cats sooner rather than later.

If anything, that sounds like air entrapment in the cooling system. Let us know how things go after the flush job.

I had to replace the 4EAT trans on my 2000 OBW at about 150,000 miles. I GUESS that's a reasonable lifetime, but both me and my wallet would have sure liked to have seen a lot more miles out of it. These things are expensive to have replaced.

Got the same situation here, normally I use compressed air to blow the nuts off the top of the engine. Now that sounds good, doesn't it. I need to do this every six months or so, the rodents are quite efficient...

It doesn't make any sense to me to attribute a "lack of power" to a defective clutch, unless it was clearly and obviously slipping. Have you gotten a professional opinion and/or estimate? There should be no real difference in wear symptoms or behaviour between a hydraulic and a mechanically actualted clutch.

When I see stuff like this, it ususally ends up being that replacement parts are needed. This is just my experience.

Does it slip? It should be obvious if it does. If it's slipping, I'd say you better change it. If not, keep an eye on it, wait for more symptoms.