2X2KOB

seized seized seized

The description of the smell almost sounds like the timing belt and a siezed idler , tensioner, or water pump, but... Any further clues on this one?

That's right, AMM, ECU, CPS, ETC. Good stuff. Subarus are interesting. We have two now. I like the AWD and the interior quality, but the transmissions are WAY more expensive to replace. And there's too many wires and computers.

Will it start at all now? Has there been any recent maintenance? Have you checked the basics - spark, fuel delivery? I hope you were at least able to get it home. Good luck - keep us posted, I'd like to know what's up with this.

Not to go too far off topic, but Missouri among others charges an annual "personal property" tax on things you own, including cars, trucks, snowmobiles, mobile homes, and livestock. This money goes to the school and the ambulance district and the fire department, so I don't mind.

I just checked the book on my 2000 - it says 105,000 miles for the timing belt change - however, now is the perfect time to change yours, because it hasn't broken yet. Optionally, you can change the water pump and cam/crank seals as preventive maintenance, and reseal the oil pump, and check all the idler pulley and tensioner bearings for grinding noises. A search in the forums on 'timing belt' will provide lots of info.

Welcome Rob! Righto - the late 90's Phase 1 DOHC 2.5 is not the most highly regarded engine. BTW, it's not like you came in not knowing anyone - you sold me some 240 fuel injection parts last summer. At some point in the future, my daughter is going to appreciate that. Mark

Based on reported head gasket and transmission issues, you might look for a 2002 or newer if you can afford it.

Thanks - I thought it was interference too, then I saw this reference: http://www.toad.net/~rrubel/outbackfaq.html that said otherwise. It's all the way to the end of the file.

Is the phase-2 SOHC 2.5l engine in my 2000 Outback an interference or non-interference engine? Has anyone ever experienced a broken timing belt with one of these cars and lived to tell the tale?

Ace, where did you go to school?

Differentials can live a long time making noise. If that were mine, I'd MONITOR it.

The owner's manual doesn't specify the fuse size. Use a 10, 15 or 20 amp, any of those should be OK. Owner's Manual says: NOTE (If your vehicle is AWD with automatic transmission) Before driving your vehicle with the temporary spare tire, put a spare fuse inside the FWD connector located in the engine compartment and confirm that the Front-wheel drive warning light comes on. The all wheel drive capability of the vehicle has now been deactivated. After reinstalling the conventional tire, remove the spare fuse from the FWD connector in order to reactivate all wheel drive.

Not going cheap on the trans cooler makes sense. Who makes good ones? Where can I get one?

And if it were an auto, you could only run the spare if it were the same size as the other tires, or if you installed the FWD fuse to disconnect the center diff. as specified by the owner's manual.

I don't know - just seems like every time I get rotors turned, I'm back in there replacing them within six months to a year. I don't have facts or theories, just experience.

Shop figure out what's wrong with it yet? How much do they want? End of the month, boat payment's due you know.

I'd second that - turning rotors is generally a waste of money with new ones so cheap. And who wants thin rotors? Not me mon.

What is a steering yoke ?

That's some sloppy work. No excuse for that. Can you check the connector on the speed sensor? Might be an easy fix, might get lucky.

Who makes the OEM plugs? NGK? Nippondenso? CHAMPION?

It is highly unlikely that the CEL and the fuel guage problem are directly related. Best bet is to pull the codes, an Autozone or equivalent will do this for free. What I'm trying to say is: The fuel quantity indication system is not one of the things that will trip a CEL.

Take it back, make the guy who fixed it fix it right. This is: a) a warranty/workmanship issue, and a ground problem, I bet.

Not sure on your '96, but on the '00 it's something like: press on the belt midway between the crank pulley and the alternator pulley with a force of 10kg (22 lb) and verify that the belt deflects as follows: replaced: 7 — 9 mm (0.276 — 0.354 in) reused: 9 — 11 mm (0.354 — 0.433 in) I generally SWAG this measurement. Also, if it squeaks, it's too loose.

Cool. Good job on the head gasket. And it's probably worth the time to clean up the rust - these are pretty good cars.