2X2KOB

I agree - it'll get you home. Good call on the MWE axles for a replacement, I have had good luck with them. Don't forget to check back in and let us know if you got stranded or not...

Probably the alignment. Losing 4 mpg as heat in a bad bearing probably wouldn't last very long. Congratulations.

Thanks for the details on your code reader. Here is an alternate solution that works, if one is short on cash.

201,000 miles on my 2000 OBW. Not a record by any means but it's been very well behaved so far. I'm going to keep this as long as I can, it still looks good and runs fine. I guess I do about 40,000 miles a year now.

Wow, that's a lot of info. What kind of code reader are you using? Somewhat related, Harbor Freight has a CAN capable code reader for $40. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94169 This cheapie won't give you THAT kind of information, though.

I normally run 36 PSI all around. I think it helps with the fuel economy.

Maybe they add 486% to the price because the label says "LL Bean". oops, -1, troll

A point of comparison: OK, I just called the local dealer parts department, and a new cat, parts only, for my 2000 OBW is $689.34, and that's list price - no discount. Yours is probably similar, which leaves 1610.66 for labor and incidentals. Even at the lawyerly rate of $200 per hour, I don't think it takes 8 hours to change this part. Have you shopped around?

I drove to work this morning in 9 degrees F temps but the subie spends the night in the garage, where it's a cozy 50F. This makes Subie happy!

On the 2000 there's a lighted (when on) pushbutton just below the four-way power mirror adjuster switch for the mirrors, on the driver's door console by the windor switches. Also, there's little wavy heat-representative lines in a small logo etched on each heated exterior mirror. I realize you got a '97 but some of the clues may be similar.

If you have a stick type arc welder or a wire-feed welder, you can center a nut on the broken stud and weld it inside the nut to the broken stud, let it cool, and back it out. The heat helps break loose the bond between the stud threads and the hole, too. If the nut twists off, just do it again.

That makes sense.

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a pretty slow leak, personally I'd let that sort of thing go until it was starting to soil up my clean pristine garage floor in an unacceptable fashion. Although I guess the stench while driving would be a factor too...

How bad was the external oil leak from the headgasket? Could you have let it go, and continued to drive it?

I get the same kind of behavior from the 2000 Outback. What I do is watch for the TC to unlock, then pop it out of cruise and finish the hill with my foot. It's sort of a PITA to do this, but I don't like it downshifting so much either.

Dave, 55k is pretty early for boot failure. Have you checked underneath?

Your scanner just might be incompatible with this car for some reason. Can you go to someplace like an Autozone where they read codes for free, and see if their scanner works on your car?

I checked the factory service manual and I didn't see where greasing the splines was specifically called out, but my personal practice is to ALWAYS use grease or anti-sieze on these or any other splines. On the axle nut, the torque is 137 foot-pounds.

It's there. Right side, under the removable foam panel, then outboard and to the front. Might be taped down. Mine was hidden pretty good, took a while to dig it out.

Strange it should be so tight. On the 2000 Outback, both sides just slid out easily. I think the configuration is the same or at least very similar.

When you re-tighten that top eccentric bolt, don't torque it to the book value of 120 foot-pounds. I did that and stretched the bolts and had to get new ones. Never did get to 120 ft/lb. I'd say about 80 or 90 is more than enough.

I just did mine, a 2000 OBW. Both inners failed within about a week of each other, and the vile stench was the clue to look underneath. I replaced the axle shafts with new ones from MWE, which were $75 each plus shipping. A pretty good deal. Mileage is about 148,000.

Good point, I didn't consider that. Mostly I posted it for the water pump price. Good luck!

Reference: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77160 www.1stsubaruparts.com sells at 28% off list price.

Not to be rude or anything, but is there a point to this?