2X2KOB

Just curious, why are you changing it? Check engine light and code? These things don't fail much.

I typically get 370 miles out of 14 gallons in the 00 OBW. That's about when the light comes on. The owner's manual says the tank capacity is 16.9 US gallons. So with these numbers you could expect 61.86 miles after the light comes on. I have found the light to be consistent and repeatable. Is that redundant?

Does it seem like front CV boots fail more quickly than rear ones?

Terminology note: A clutch is "engaged" when your foot is off of it, and the engine is connected to the transmission. It is "disengaged" when your foot is pressed down on it, and the engine is disconnected from the transmission.

Could have been overfilled a bit. Just drive it a few days and check it warm a couple times, no problem.

Definitely a warranty job.

Lots of people have done this. Check and be sure that you didn't drain the front differential! The dipstick for the front diff is on the passenger side on a North American car, and the dipstick for the automatic transmission is on the driver's side below the brake master cylinder. If it was transmission fluid that you drained, replace it with Mobil 1 ATF. In fact, do this every time you change your engine oil and you'll never have a transmission problem. You should get just about 4 quarts of ATF out of the transmission pan when draining, so it makes a good partial change.

That's a pretty good list. Does anyone make a head gasket kit that would include most of these parts? Have you costed this out yet? If you didn't have an oil burning problem previously, I wouldn't think the rings would need replacement yet.

Isn't this a classic torque bind symptom? Do a search in the forums for torque bind - there's plenty of info there. It might also be useful to know if this is an automatic or manual transmission.

How well does it work? Isn't it just more complex stuff to break and cost a lot of money to fix?

Yep, sounds like brakes or backing plates. Have you taken off the wheels and had a look around?

What's avcs mean?

Isn't that information listed on the sticker on the driver's door frame? I don't have a Subaru handy (I'm traveling) or I'd just go look.

I think that if it's only $70 more, I'd go ahead and plan on replacing it, particularly with the chattering. You don't want to have to go in there again.

I'm sure they would like to sell you the part and at the same time avoid any future warranty issues. This doesn't mean it's necessary to replace it. Do you know what the old one looks like, or don't you have it apart yet? Any "bad flywheel" symptoms?

Towing fees? Just drive it backwards, no problem! Seriously, good luck, keep us posted. When this happened to me I had an independent shop install a factory rebuilt unit. Not the least expensive route. If I had to do it again I'd find a junkyard unit and put it in.

I think it's OK to spray it off. Don't spray a hot engine, though. You should spray it running, but do it right after you start it cold, then let it run for a while after you spray it so it can dry.

I'm familiar with this problem. Internal seals have failed in the transmission, and it needs to be replaced. Sorry.

But they aren't turning when the car is not moving. No movement, no vibration. I doubt that the axles play any significant part in the physical restraint of the engine/trans assembly, all these loads are taken by the motor and trans mounts. The previous explanation doesn't really make any sense to me, although I'm not going to worry about it too much.

This not being the first time I have heard this, and completely believing it, I still must ask: WHY?

The dealer can run diagnostics on the TCU with the Select Monitor. However, I don't think you have a TCU problem. Both of our 2000 OBW's do this to some degree. I think it's more related to the gradual weakening of the motor and transmission mounts and the gradual loosening of interior parts which vibrate and make noise. I would almost call it normal for this car. Annoying, but normal. Or not uncommon - how about that.

How did it get stripped? Is it the threads or the bolt flats that are stripped?

Or the switch on the brake pedal is failing or sticky. That's where I'd start. I mean, if the car HAS a switch on the brake pedal. I'm not familiar with that model.

That's not normal behavior. There should be a manual release button or lever or something for the shifter lock somewhere on or around the shifter itself. Check the owner's manual for specifics. This is not a fix, it's a work-around.

Right right, P0420, I see that all the time. My code reader (Autozone, $79) looks just like the Harbor Freight unit linked above (not that THAT really means anything) and it works great to pull and reset codes on the 00 OBW. So something like that should work fine for what you want it to do.