2X2KOB

Not if you take a pair of vise-grips and bust off the plastic caps that try to hide the adjuster screws. Note that the adjuster screws that have the caps installed adjust left and right, and the screws without the caps adjust up and down.

I'd go with it and not worry about it.

Cool! Thanks very much for the info.

It runs fine, gets about 25 MPG. No other codes are being set besides the 420 code. If I reset it, it will come back within a few days. I'm not sure exactly what's causing the code to set but I figured that front O2 sensor was a good thing to try next.

If (when) I get my hands on a new one and install it, I'll take the old one apart and see what's up with the extra wires. This sensor was changed several years ago on the recall, before I got the car. I may have a bad front oxygen sensor or possibly a bad cat, but I want to change the sensor first and see if that gets rid of the P0420 code. Last week I changed the rear oxygen sensor with an OEM replacement, didn't help with the code. Thanks...

Morning, Thanks very much for taking the time to check your car and post the photo. Yours looks just like mine, so now I'm convinced that they sent me the wrong part. I'll have to get one from a real Subaru dealer.

No, I didn't get it from a dealer. It was identified and advertised as an OEM replacement, though. The connector I was looking at is located directly below the right side of the air filter housing, and it's a six pin rectangular connector. I'm about as sure as I can be that the connector and harness I was looking at was for the front O2 sensor only. The wiring went only to that sensor. This is strange - I would expect O2 sensor wiring to have four wires, also. The factory service manual wiring diagram shows four wires. The thing that I'm looking at that I think is the front oxygen sensor is screwed into the cat convertor close to where the left and right pipes join together, located right behind the right side inner CV joint boot. Is that right?

I have the P0420 code and I need to change the front oxygen sensor on my 2000 Legacy Outback. I ordered a new sensor from one of the websites, but I'm pretty sure I was sent the wrong part because it had a four conductor electrical connector and the existing part installed on the car has a six conductor electrical connector. The seller said return it, but that's the only part they show for this application. It's supposed to be an OEM replacement, not a generic. Has anyone here replaced an oxygen sensor lately on a 2000 Outback and can you tell me, did it have a four wire or a six wire connector?

http://www.mileliminators.com

I just got an OEM front oxygen sensor for my 2kOB - I think it was $96 shipped. Now I just have to find it so I can change it.

http://techinfo.subaru.com Bring your credit card.

Have had good luck with Brembo rotors and Akebono pads, and I'm sure that next time I need them I'll buy them again.

On a '97 you'll need a code reader to pull the codes. Most auto parts stores will use their reader to pull codes for you. Seems like this should be an issue you'd want to address to the person who did your head gaskets?

Anybody know if this is still a problem area after the design change in what, MY2000?

I'm not sure, but I think this model has two oxygen sensors, one upstream of the cat, and one downstream. If this is true, did you find & change the right sensor?

Your engine management system will not appreciate this. This is not how the idle speed is determined.

Manually shifting an automatic? I'm sure there are "activities" that are more pointless and boring than this, but I'm at a loss to think of what they might be. Well, maybe watching cricket on TV. Maybe.

Power your keyless entry system separately, then disconnect the battery.

ATF temp sensor

Are there fault codes that can be pulled (somehow) when this happens?

Put tiny, clean rocks in it and swish it around. Around here we call this stuff pea gravel and it comes from the river beds. Rocks about 1/4" in diameter.

Two things that spring to mind after an engine removal/head gasket job that could cause rough running/excessive noise & vibration are that the cam timing is a tooth off (although wouldn't the cam position sensor know this and throw a code? Are there one or two of these sensors?) or possibly the exhaust was installed in a slightly different position which is causing it to hit some solid part of the car underneath. The motor mount preload mentioned previously is also a possibility. I wish I could drive that car and see what it's doing, firsthand. Please keep us posted on how things go, we're interested.

To what extent does it overheat?

A carpenter's tool belt is the way to go. Just watch you don't drop stuff.

We got us some a them in Missouri too.