2X2KOB

I've heard it said, here and elsewhere, that trapped air in the cooling system can cause this. This is by no means a conclusive conclusion.

I think it's great that it worked. Please keep us posted on how it works out.

You really going to change the tensioner and all three idlers? That will certainly make a good job of it, but might not be necessary. How much do those four parts cost? Wait, I can look that up... http://www.subarupartsforyou.com Tensioner $109 Upper Idler $49 Lower Idler $32 Toothy Idler $49 http://www.subarugenuineparts.com Tensioner $105 #1 Idler $55 #2 Idler $30 Toothy Idler $???? http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Tensioner $103 #1 Idler $54 #2 Idler $29 Toothy Idler $????

Yup, you need seals, and four hours unless you're like me, if so then you need eight hours. And antifreeze, and the coolant system magic anti-leak treatment additive which is $2 at the dealer. And distilled water for mixing. And maybe some loctite.

Whatwhatwhat?? Do they use gears, or a chain, or something else?

I'd replace it, and if that didn't fix it, I'd convince myself that I should be happy that I now had a spare, and keep looking. I understand that this type of reasoning doesn't work for everyone.

Just park it pointing uphill, steeper the better, and do the squeeze thing on the radiator hoses, run it a bit, run the heater, like that. You'll get it filled up.

Those are both overpriced. Keep lookin'...

What are you looking for? Just a replacement of what you have, or some different options?

Pop it a good one with a hunk of 4 x 4 and see if that knocks it loose.

Don't worry about it, the guys that work in those 30 minute oil change places throw those washers away by the hatful and never have a problem.

Maybe it's one of these: http://www.fljerry.com/flj0052.html

How's it running? Might reset the codes and see if they come back. I think sometimes codes pop in response to transient conditions.

How does it run? How is the gas mileage? This could be a vacuum leak - might check all the vacuum hoses for splits or disconnections.

It's new tranny time. Sorry about that.

I'd certainly second that. Just park it over a drip pan, like an old jet.

If that was mine, I'd take out the pads and de-glaze them with a file on the disk contact surface, and add a bit of chamfer around the edges. Then I'd see if there's a ridge on the outer edge of the disk, and if so knock that off with a file while the disk was turning. Then I'd clean up the caliper with a toothbrush and some brake clean spray, apply a tiny bit of high-temp grease to the pad slider contact points, and reinstall the pads with a very light application of that "disk brake quiet" compound on the back of the pads. Using OEM pads on these cars seems to be worth the money.

Sounds like your brake pads. It's worth taking a look, might not be a problem other than noise. How many miles since the brakes were last worked on or inspected? Have a look at the CV joint boots while you are in there.

That IS a bit pricey. For a '97 I'd expect to see a price closer to 4k, more or less.

Therein lies the question...

What I'd like is a pressure indicator on the dash that tells me what the duty C solenoid pressure is - from 0% (AWD locked) to 100% (AWD off). Does this make sense? Is it possible? Anybody done it?

That is a single overhead cam, based on the cam belt cover appearance. Still has four valves per cylinder though (pdf attachment). Note the use of valve clearance adjustment screws - no buckets and shims on this one. That VIN breaks down like this: 4 Subaru S Subaru 3 Subaru B Model: B line H Wagon 6 2500cc 6 Outback ? Restraint type: 5=airbags 6=side airbags 4 Check digit Y Model year 2000 7 Made in USA with 4EAT auto trans 6 Sequential 0 Sequential 7 Sequential 3 Sequential 8 Sequential 3 Sequential Rocker_Assembly.pdf

Might change the trans fluid and spin-on filter, there's been a few reports of expensive tranny repairs. The check engine light likes to show up with the P0420 code. Don't let this turn into a pricey catalytic convertor replacement, what it will probably need is an oxygen sensor or two. There were recalls on the rear subframe corrosion protection, maybe the front oxygen sensor, and maybe the previously noted coolant additive. Call a dealer with your VIN and they can give you the recall history.

The crud in the overflow tank is probably the factory additive used in the recall. If you change the coolant (and you should) it would be a good idea to put in another dose of the additive - it should be less than two bucks at the dealer. Please check and see if that's a DOHC or not and let us know - I have never seen a 2000 OB that wasn't a SOHC.

Heh. Good answer. It does pretty much the same thing that it does during a normal non-panic stop, just faster.