TuckerCJ

Okay definetely dont try and drill it out any more. cobalt, titanium it doesnt matter these are all just slight variations of your sears High speed steel bits. heat and welding are your only options. you wold be surprised at how accurate you could cut out with a torch. the only problem is the melting temp. of your HSS bit is quite higher than the bolt your trying to remove and the surrounding metal. HSS can have the temper removed by quenching it quickly with water. good thing is you will be removing the temper of both the bit and the bolt and the nature of the High speed steel it will become much more brittle than the bolt only if you get it cold quick but if you try and weld it after good luck it wont stick. I would exhaust all your welding choices first. if not you can take your time and chip the HSS out that has been untempered with a small tool prick punch or center punch. its going to suck no matter how you look at it.

ok so fill me in as i didnt change it myself but i do have the schematic for the cam case. id like to go back to the mechanic with this info. i wonder if these would come in the gasket kit he got for the head gasket change?

Why would i have taken the cam towers off?

Its only on the side that i changed the head gasket and it wasnt there before. its a 92 loyale with 125k on it. I figure that the oil seals should fix it i hope but now that you talk about the cam support ring i wonder

well i hope fixing the oil pump doesnt lead to an oil leak from to much PSI. lol. it seems everytime i fix something it leads to another problem

I think mine maybe dying. its running 22 psi when warm 45 psi when cold. its -3 here right now though. Oddly enough the Oil pressure has seemed to drop since doing the head gasket. Can I just change out the seals? Also I think this maybe why my Hydraulic lifters wont stop ticking since changing the head gasket. ive put 150 miles on it now and they wont shutt up and they never made a peep before.

anybody??

anybody

What parts did you need to take apart? if you only to the valve cover off?

Anybody give me a quick run down. im pretty sure i need to dot his now since o got my head gasket changed the valves wont shut up.

Ok so ive put 100 miles on it now and it atill sounds like a model T. any suggestions?

well this motor was one of the quitest ea82 around. it never had a peep until this head gasket. how long should it need to take to pump them up? it really makes me feel a little ill when i drive it. the sealant that was used was the stuff that came in the gasket kit.

i figured that but how long should it tAKe? i mean ive put like 30 miles on it up and down a long hill at pretty high RPM. ive got pretty good oil pressure. isnt there a way to prime those suckers before you put the head back on?

This car never made a peep of valve noise. Now all of a sudden there like little munchkins with hammers on the side of engine. i know there hydraulic valves and all but cmon. its a 92 loyale. Does anybody have any suggestions for shutting them up and why there so loud now.

good to hear. wish i would have thought about 10 years ago when i had my first wagon

ill tell you one thingbuy OEM boots!!!! the crap you buy from napa and other place are awful!!!!! if you drive a subaru at 80 MPH for any extended period of time the aftermarket ones will go and fast. we drove acroos country and went through 3 before we figured it out. the OEM ones are twice as thick

that got me for like an hour once. pretty sad but it happened.

Anybody thought of just drilling and tapping the existing hubs with new lugs to fit a honda or something? or is there not enough room to make a pattern that small? i guess there maybe some strength issues.but iwouldnt think so.

welll.................. so i took it back to the mechanic and low and behold there was exhaust fumes in the radiator. so we got it down to a blown head gasket but.....something interesting was discovered. When i bled the rad it ran fine for a while and then when the engine pumped enough air in the cooling system it was locking up giving the indication that there was a blocked rad, cool on the right and hot on the left as well the heater didnt work. weirdly enough the compression tests came back fine and the first time he did a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system it was negative. so he figured the water pump wasnt circulating but it was the engine pumping enough air in the system to stop it from circulating. anybody else had this happen?

you'd rattle that motor to pieces in 20 minutes.

OK so my temperatature goes way up when im driving around. never in the red but close. I changed the thermostat as well as the radiator because of this problem and its still there . the left side of the radiator is hot and the right side is cool. If i want to get it to cool down i need to drive the crap out of it and then it seems to come down a bit. Overall though the temperature is all over the place but never below half way. Its very confusing as well if i turn the engine off then on the temperature guage reads higher almost immediately then it creeps down then back up and so on.

no water in the oil but it is overheating. only going up hill though. I just got it back from the mechanic and he said there was no leak but as soon as i drove it, bam, it started getting really hot. he tested the compression and he put the leak tester in the radiotor and nothing. How likely is it that it blew between a oil and water jacket? and if so wouldnt there be water in the oil too? when its not running you would think the water would drip down in to the pan.

Its as simple as it gets. Just swap them out. no mods needed.

ok i got oil in the radiator but ive got consistent compression across the board at 125 also a mechanic did a "head gasket test" and said that its not the head gasket. So what could it be. Is there any other way for oil to get in the coolant? its a 92 loyale.