brice k

Edit: http://www.putfile.com/boostbird The 2 pages dealing with the KS are here. ^^^ I just noticed that the link below is to PQ Canada, Maybe that makes a diffrence? Sorry don't have a email client big enough to send the file 31mb. So here is the link http://www.driftquebec.com/legacy/1992_legacy.pdf Brice

Thanks I'll emil that to you. Whats the recomended way that you all check the knock sensor?

well it was actually legacycentral.org It was one of these links, not sure which one. I can email you the zip if you want. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485 Anyways the KS is new my brother installed it about 3 months ago. So what about the igniter? I don't want my new coil to go bad, but I don't want to spend $200 on a new igniter if I don't have to. Anyone else? Brice

From the 1992 service manual section 2 scan. Adobe Page 486 that I downloaded from this site "1 Disconnect connector from knock sensor 2 measure resistance between knock sensor terminal and body specified resistance Aprox 560 kohm" thanks Brice

Yah it feels like a timing problem. My KS is new and reads 560kohms so its withen spec. Need to check map, put a boost gague on to see if I have a boost leak, and maybe swap my other maf on there. My question still remaines though. I know on my Mazda that igniters go bad, start overloading the coil and eventully fry the coil. So before I put my brand new coil on there I want to check the igniter outbut. Like I said the subi shop manual scan I have dosn't tell me how to test the igniters output. Anyone know how to check it? Thanks Brice

I had a pinging problem that turned out to be a bad coil. I threw a junkyard coil on there about 1000 miles ago. My engine has been running great until a few weeks ago. Now somtimes when I try to acc I experance a major loss of power. But dyno says I'm loosing about 40 hp. I give it about 1/4 throttle and I feel the boost building about 2 seconds after getting on the throttle I loose the power and the exhaust note changes. If I stay into it my acceleration is still pretty smooth but I'm down on power. and then all of a sudden it's like somthing snaps and I'm running perfectly again. The snap back to normal is not rpm related, and dosn't seem to be throttle related although if I back off to zero throttle then accelerate again it's usually all good. 93 2.2 stock turbo/psi, aftermarket bp/bo valve, 3" dp/exhaust New - KS -ect sender -plugs/wires -TPS voltages withen spec and smooth -I have the junkyard coil on there now and a brand new OEM coil, but I wanted to know if Subi igniters tend to go bad and fry coils, or how to check my Igniter before I stick the new coil on. My Subi manual says to check igniter input harness, but can I check it's output? Also beyond ignition would you suspect? Wastgate solinoid? MAF? MAP? TPS? Whatever bo/bp valve I have? (blue and silver adjustable) Thanks Brice

Im no Subaru expert. Just got my first one a few month ago, but it sounds like you need new engine mounts

I just got a 82 GL EA81 Does anyone know where I can get the SAE papers for this power plant? Already tried a google search Thanks Brice

what about #'s? Camber? Toe? Brice

I'm taking my 93 Legacy sports sedan in for an allignment tomorrow. I have HK lowering springs and Tokico 4 way struts. Stock swaybars etc. Tires = 205/50/16's What do you recomend for a daily driver that sees a little auto-x action. tire pressure is 32 front 27 rear. Thanks Brice

I inspected the old coil better today. I cut the wire clip off it and the wires look fine. Either the coil is failing inturnally OR there was allot of dielectric grease in the wire connecter, maybe the voltage was jumping the pins with the help of the grease? The engine has 230,000 miles, and that was probably the origional coil. Iv'e seen a spark jump plug wires plenty of times, so it makes sense that the coil could do the same thing. After all the coil voltage loves to jump between gaps. that's it's whole job Anyways I've been crusing around the back roads today and the car is running nearly perfect. Brice

The problem is fixed!!! I sw2aped on a junkyard coil and the pinging problem went away! The old coil must have been leaking voltage to the wrong leads causing the pinging. It would also explaine why the timing was so wacky and the fact that timing didn't change when I pulled it off of any of the 4 cylinders. Thanks for the help. Now for a bigger turbo/injectors/and an air to water intercooler. Of course I pulled all my aftermarket electronics off, so I'll have to re-install all of that also. Brice

Thanks. I forgot to mention: I did replace the plugs/wires last week. Went with NGK V-powers standard heat range. Yesterday I orderd some V-powers one range cooler. Will install them as soon as they arrive.

Thanks. I played with the timing light zero calibration, and the mark moved properly. I'm using the grove that's cut in the front of the crank pulley, I don't see anything else that resembles a mark. Iv'e run 1/2 gal toluene with a tank of premium and it still pinged. Compression is @ 155-160 on all 4 cyl. The KS is new and I checked the restance, its @ spc @ the sensor. I have the ecu pinout so I'll check it there as well. I have a wideband 02 kicking out simulated narrow band to the ecu. I'm going to put the stocker back in for now. I'm going to have the injectors serviced. I just picked up a coil @ the junkyard off a 90 legacy N/A. It looks about the same. I'm going to try swapping that in. :piggyback: I have a SMT6 http://www.perfectpowerusa.citymax.com/page/page/2003728.htm that my brother got from http://rallitek.com/ (a subaru proformance shop here in Portland) I have already removed the timing controll, and today I'm removing the injector control and the simulated narrow band 02 output. people have been using the SMT6 on the ej22t with mixed results (minor problems) Fule pressure @ idle was ~29psi. I understand that it should be around 37@ idle, so I put a hose clamp on the return line for now and cranked it up to about 45psi @ idle, still pinging. I just got a sutible dc volt meeter, so I'm going to check the MAF, IAT, TPS, KS @ the ecu pins. Any other ideas? Thanks Brice

:edit: Problem fixed see last post 93 Legacy 2.2 Turbo 5spd I checked my timing with a timing light and found the ignition timing to be retarded about 150* :what I did: Connected a timing light to #1 wire. Jumped the green connector under the dash checked the timing. Looking at the crank pulley the timing mark looked to be at about 4 o-clock. What did I do wrong? The funny thing is that I tried the timing light clamp on all 4 plug wires and the timing mark on the crank didn't move at all. Could this posibly indicate a faulty coil or igniter? I have no cel codes Stock turbo @ 7psi Aftermarket fuel pump. PSI @ idle ~30 Goes up with boost. checked injector signal/ground/resistance Checked KS re-clocked the TPS replaced the ECT sender swaped on another MAF. I tried to check the MAf and TPS but I don't have an accurate enough DC volt meeter to properly check the output voltages. I could check or swap out the CP1 and CP2 senders but if they were bad they would throw a CEL right? I've been fighting with this detenation problem for months. It used to be pretty intermittent and as far as I could tell totally random, but now the pinging is there all the time if I go to more than 1/8 throttle. I just removed my SMT6 piggyback controller. Any help is appreaciated. I already have a chiltons book, and have downloaded the Subaru manual pdf's.