4x4_Welder

I just have to throw my bit into this- There are adapters to put a VW TDI onto a Toyota 5speed transmission, the shortcoming would be the rear diff Subaru used. I'm not sure it would handle the torque, but if it would then it'd be like having a mini Mercedes. I would absolutely love to do that on my wagon. Getting the sump around the front subframe would also be a huge challenge though. I recently wrapped up a swap putting a 7.3IDI into a 69 F250, replacing a built 360 v8. The 360 was a great engine, made decent power, and towed well on the highway, just as I built it to do. Unfortunately it was thirsty. Towing I couldn't expect more than 8mpg, if that. Empty it turned in 12, tops. The 7.3 produces far more torque right off idle, making the truck even easier to drive, and with the help of the five speed I also swapped in it gives mileage in the low 20s in mixed driving. I haven't towed with it yet, but the fact that the mileage is nearly double the old engine with more power is quite promising. I have about $800 into the swap, so even with the more expensive fuel the operating costs have come way down. Granted, a small car won't have as big of an improvement as a percentage, but still it would be an improvement and even a straight diesel typically gets better mileage than these goofy hybrids.

What year? Before 83 had a weak pedal box, and the clutch cable mount would tear away. If you replace the pedal box with a 84+ box (EA82 is the same) and use an 84+ Brat cable, you won't have any more issues. The pedal box is available new from Subaru for about $80, minus the pedals.

One path I had considered was to use the Escort distributor with the EA82 MPFI system, but I don't know if they are compatible. I mainly looked at this as my car was an EA82 MPFI, but wound up going with a replacement harness.

Here's another one: I'd have to go with something like a built V6, or the Buick or even Rover aluminum V8, and run stock Toyota axles under it. The Samurai axles are tiny, and full width Toyotas aren't much wider while giving about twice the strength. There are also reports of guys putting built VW TDI engines into Samurais and getting some pretty decent numbers, both for power and mileage.

I used to go to Belfair Hose since most of the companies I worked for went there and they did good work, but now moving out here I'm having to find all new places. Nearly every auto parts store claims to do hoses here, even O'Reilly's, but there is one dedicated bearing hose and industrial supply shop. They are good, but expensive and don't deal with a whole lot in the way of metric hoses and fittings.

Thanks, Pat. I guess I'll have to have real hydraulic lines made.

So, at the rack end, are the fittings the same between the EA82 and EJ cars?

Now that the site is back up, I'll ask my question in a bit better of an area: On an 89 GL, what is the maximum power steering pressure? Does anyone know what the fittings are at the rack? Are they the same as an early Legacy?

I test-fitted the rear driveshaft in my GL wagon with an EJ 5MT, and it engages but not by much. Maybe about 3/4". I can see some of the shaft in between the dust shield and trans tail. Do I need more engagement than this?

You ought to do that swap anyways- It'd at least double your power at that altitude. You could probably sell the current drivetrain on FCC for a few bucks too. Those Mitsu rims aren't bad. I'll probably have to stop off at a few different tire shops to see what they might have to offer.

My stock Courier rims are long gone, but they were mismatched anyways. I had two first gens, and two second gens on it so they didn't actually match to begin with. I thought of the Toyota rims, but I was hoping to not expose my redrilling like that. As a side thought, aren't the newer GM cars a smaller pattern? I know the XTerra is now on a 6x4.5" pattern, those GMs look like they are about that size. The Mitsu diesels aren't too bad. It would have been a lot easier to shoehorn that engine and trans into my Courier than the Mercedes setup. Of course, the Merc has a bit more power...........

I have a set of 14" six lug whitespokes off my Courier, I'm just looking for something that isn't so much a truck rim and will go with the Subaru's styling a bit more.

With my assortment of vehicles, My 89 GL former turbowagon, now EJ22 equipped, is going to be kept as a car. I'd like it to have a bit better of tires, though. Right now I have the stock 13" steelies with Hakkas. What I'd like to do is grab a set of fairly car-like 6lug 15" wheels, preferably something with center caps, redrill the wheels or the hubs, and just go with it. I already have the four wheel disks, so it wouldn't be a huge gain to go to 5lug stuff aside from wheel selection. Does anyone have a wheel they would recommend?

The diff lock locks the center diff, same as putting a d/r trans into 4wd. When unlocked, it's providing power to whichever end has the least traction like a regular differential.

Ok, I hit fuel cut on a stock EA82T. It's not hard. Cooling has nothing to do with it. The MAF only flows enough air to support 115-120hp, more and -you guessed it- the computer flips out and stops giving it fuel. Not to mention that with the archaic PCV system of the EA82T, you WILL pop your rear main seal out. Ask me how I know this- BTW, you stated the reason you kept up with the WRX- He didn't know you were there. It's hard to race an unknown opponent, he probably realized you were there at about 70mph, waited for the lag to go away and left you in the dust before you could hit 80. Also, I'd like a clarification on your "dry ice sprayers"- How do you spray dry ice? Do you shoot the Co2 straight into your intake? Do you use it to chill water to -109º?

Brake booster, PCV are the first things that pop to mind. Also, if you ditched the EGR, make sure to use a block-off plate, don't just leave the valve in place disconnected.

Having an SPFI now, to run a turbo you will need a turbo crossmember. Otherwise, the up-pipe and crossmember will be trying to share the same space. You can get a Legacy that runs for just as much as this engine might cost, and either swap in it's AWD 5speed, or get an adapter plate, plus you also get all the stuff for the front 5lug swap. I'm working on an affordable alternative to the XT6 rear stuff, and once that's done, you'll be set.

Did you put the torque arm back on? Is it in good shape? Do you have all four nuts in place on the trans mount, especially the up-travel stopper with the rubber coated washer?

Headlights ground through the body, wipers ground through the body, rear defroster grounds through the body, cig lighter...............I could just keep going for a while. First, a constant pure DC output will not send out a signal. Second, if there was some mystery magnetic signal leaching out to the main harness, why isn't the alternator lead that runs in the main harness shielded? Why isn't starter lead twisted with the ground lead, I'm sure that puts off a heck of a field. What it sounds like is that the ballasts are shorted out and putting a high-frequency signal into the power system and that will create a problem with the computer, but it wouldn't do that with nothing attached to the end of the wire-

The screws are only accessible from the top- with the hood open. Did the handle just break off the cable? I have used baby vise grips in that situation, in one case I bought a car with them, and made sure to grab them before I scrapped it.

There's half a dozen + hoses that can leak on an EA82T, but in that area- Water pump, water tube o-ring, bypass hose, lower radiator hose...........

Ya know, GD, you've been saying that for as long as I have been on here, and I have doubted that since day 1. Think of the sound of a WRC car, how they have a phenomenal deep rumble, even through the turbo, then take a look at this- That's equal length there. FWIW, it is the firing order of the boxer that makes the sound. A lot of VWs around here have the Baja-Bug style exhaust, with -you guessed it- equal length pipes, and they have a growl to them.

Except that intake manifold gaskets leaks just the same as the EA81- If any of the intake bolts broke or were very difficult to remove, I would look in this direction. Have the heads checked, I bought an 89 GL wagon with head gasket problems only to find it had cracked the heads all the way around into the valve guide area.

Did you put oil in the new transmission?

For me to do a clutch, it'd probably take 8hrs. That engine is still very easy to pull, and still the route I would take. A couple plugs, and the harness is disconnected- Three hoses, and the fuel system is disconnected. Pull the radiator with the fans, and then out comes the engine. You will need an impact to loosen and tighten the flywheel bolts, and this is also a great opportunity to do a timing belt swap and take care of any oil leaks you may have. Another thing to keep in mind is that the dealership typically charges $110-$125 an hour for labor, most independent shops are under $100 per hour, $75 is more typical. I charge $35, but then I'm doing stuff in my free time so it might be a week before I get the job actually done.