4x4_Welder

What's your car and transmission?

Why go to the dealership? You could have the clutch done for half the price at a regular shop, even at a Subaru specialist. You should just get a new flywheel for it, the hard spots from slipping may or may not turn out, and the change in thickness will change the feel of the clutch. All the hydraulics are external, rent a vacuum bleeder and it's an easy DIY project to replace all of it.

TOD sounds like a slight knock- How's your oil pressure?

See, I'm not the only one who doesn't read the dates. At least I read the whole thread-

What, it's not 2005?

I think the cheating way to do it would be for the current registered owner to get a trip permit so you could drive it out of there, or have the title mailed to you and go get WY plates- They only say new residents have to get vin inspections, not current residents bringing in out of state cars. Might be something to look into.

Yup, stock. They should be in the Subaru Wheels page, go to Subarus of the 80s, and at the top of the middle column is the wheels page.

With the axle out, hold the center shaft in one hand, with the outer cup point down. Hold the BFH in the other hand, and swing down the length of the axle shaft to knock the outer cup off. This will take a few decent hits, then it'll pop off leaving the balls and inner race in the cup. Flip the inner race around to dislodge balls until it pops out, make sure all the balls are out. Save these and get a slingshot when you get home to have some fun. I'd replace the brake hose on that side, and make sure the parking brake cable is OK. To get the balljoint out of the knuckle, pull the pinch bolt completely, and hammer a thin chisel or good screwdriver in the gap. The balljoint should just about fall out. To get the control arm back onto the ball joint, disconnect the swaybar, and use a prybar to haul down on the arm. It really helps to have someone available to either put weight on the bar, or line the ball joint up with the hole.

That's a new one on me- GL turbo maybe- Or it's an EJ22T in a 90 Legacy turbo.

Should just be a little LED illuminating it, many cars have that on all the time.

Yes, everything is free spinning, however being in FWD will cause the whole engine and transmission to try to rotate as more power is being applied. This is the purpose of the torque arm from the bell housing to the spare tire mount, and if this doesn't control it, or the motor/transmission mounts are soft allowing movement, it can change the angle the forward-most universal joint sees. These typically seize due to being non-greasable, and just generally being ignored. Next time you drive the car, try a little bit of hard acceleration in first gear. If the problem is what I mentioned, then you should feel and hear the noise at a much lower frequency.

Pull the rear driveshaft and check your universals, I bet the front one is seized. You may also have a bad motor or transmission mount, or torque arm.

Had one a couple years ago, I can't remember if it sold or went to junk though.

Two wires to each rotor chamber, and two coil connections. It has two coils.

I think that if the EA82 just blew headgaskets, or maybe didn't even have it's sensitivity to overheats, then maybe they wouldn't have earned such a bad reputation. If they had proper cooling, an intercooler on the turbo models, and crack-resistant heads, then there wouldn't be a problem. Instead, Subaru rushed this OHC engine to market with an embarassing number of flaws, and paid the price for it. Luckily they made up for it with the EJ22, even if they did screw up again with the HGs on the EJ25.

The factory manual for the transmission basically says to only use the FWD fuse for testing and emergencys. You are essentially running that clutch pack without any lubrication.

Make sure that's it before you throw money at it. Get under there with the car off and cold, and hit the forward part of the exhaust with the heel of your hand. Hit around in a few spots, until you hear the rattle. If you don't hear the rattle, move on.

Have you rotated the tires and checked the alignment? I've had a bad front end alignment wear the front tires funny, and cause a rumble noise.

I guess, in the end, I did have an EA82T headgasket failure, just not the one everyone thinks of.

I believe there is a cat in the downpipe from the turbo. I know that pipe is quite heavy. There is also a cat in the mid-pipe.

I found the official cause of death! The lower edge of the right head gasket blew out, opening the oil return from the turbo. New one for a Subaru, sounds more like a Neon.

Why? Are you a masochist? More work than an EJ swap for less power and far less reliability.

Might be the cat's coming apart. If you need exhaust pieces, I have them.

I've thought of getting ones of those for a rally runner. Basically swap a WRX under that body, if I ever hit the lottery get a late model 6speed with DCCD, AWIC with about 16-18psi boost, full cage, etc..........

Somewhere between impossible and retardedly difficult.