4x4_Welder

There's more here (per capita) than in SLC- It's amazing the misconceptions the outsiders have. Apparently I'm supposed to have horns and four wives. Who knew

Weren't you having PCV issues a little while ago? The line routing and the way the car was parked are the first two things I'd look at. It doesn't take much oil to make a lot of smoke, especially once raw oil gets into the exhaust.

Ah, the new Bosch Platinum Zero lifetime plugs- They did away with that pesky ground electrode, leaving the sparking electrode completely exposed. Of course, there's nothing for it to ground to, but that's why they're lifetime plugs.

That's the same thing my 82 and my Hatch did, only it was accompanied by a squealing/buzzing noise. You could grab the distributor rotor and move it around side to side. It was especially bad on cold starts. The oil didn't fix it permanently, but it bought me time and made the car driveable in every case I have used it.

That's pretty slick. I know my lines are routed different due to being a turbo and an EA82, but might be something to keep in mind. I was thinking at the very least I would have to use some large flare fittings to get my lines to all connect.

Pop the cap off, and drip three or four drops of motor oil under the rotor. I tried this on my 82 wagon, and it worked for a few months. I went on to do that with a few of the other craptastic vehicles I have crossed paths with, and it has saved me quite a bit of money.

Yeah, you have the 3AT. Odd to see that in a turbo car, unless it wasn't originally a turbo. Mine's a 4EAT. These photos are an interesting comparison, maybe they should be archived somewhere? On a side note, the 3AT was solely used by Subaru, while the 4EAT was a joint design effort with Nissan. That transmission, minus a few specific pieces from the iron plate back, is the same one you'll find under a Pathfinder, or in a 300ZX. Neat, huh?

Everything comes through from the inside of the transmission itself.

You do not have rear struts- those are just shocks. The actual load bearing piece of the suspension is the torsion bars inside the crossmember. There should be an access to adjust that, and being that it's 30+ years old, you should have no trouble getting it to adjust down an inch or two.

I can probably get a picture tomorrow, but there's not much to see, it's just a stub sticking out of the center plate. There was a guy on here who changed the front diff out in a 4EAT, and has a bunch of pictures of it torn apart.

I don't know if they ever put a 3speed auto in a turbo car, or if the early 4EAT was different, but my 89 has a different setup. On mine, that piece goes all the way through the separator plate and comes out from the inside after fully disassembling the transmission. I pulled the bell/front diff housing off to be sure. I am going to check out some parts at a Subaru garage here later this week, and I'll ask them about it.

Just put a rag around the line when you pull it off. It's not much pressure on that system, and not a lot of fuel will come out.

It is possible that it might need to be smogged as the donor vehicle, but if they don't open the hood for the testing then you should be ok as-is.

It sounds like an ECM ground issue. Make sure your body to engine and body to battery grounds are nice and clean, and that the battery terminals are nice and clean as well.

That would be a stator mount, the piece that you slide the t.c. onto.

Wow, that's a pretty good break. I'll send you mine.

Ok, I forgot there was a water jacket plug next to it. I made a tool by welding a bolt with a 14mm head into a socket about five years ago. It has survived multiple rebuilds, it's just a bit ugly. Craftsman also has individual male hex sockets, but they get a little more expensive in that size.

Are you talking about the 14mm recessed hex (allen) plug on the passenger front of the engine? That won't do you any good for a block heater, that's an access hole for pulling piston pins. It's basically open to the crankcase. If you're talking about the head drains, a socket on a ratchet usually works. Use extensions as needed.

There's two of 'em in Orem, one in Hyrum, and I'm just a few hours up 15.

Anybody know how it would behave with just an RPM input, would it just upshift quick? Maybe I could rig a switch on the throttle linkage to toggle between a low resistance and a high resistance to imitate a TPS on my carbed EA81. I guess I should set all this off to the side, might come in handy. I'll have to see how the manual works first I guess.

Does the manual valve work or does that just put it in a general drive position and it's all electronic from there? I'm almost wondering about using the 4EAT I have in my project, it would be nicer than a manual even though I already have an EA81 4speed. Not needing the clutch would be really nice in this application, but I would have to weld up the output since I'm only using the rear output. Maybe I'll just tuck it away, and see if a need for it turns up...........

I like my documented destruction: That's what a seized universal does to a 4EAT.

I ran my Hatch as a RWD for almost the whole time I had it (just under a year I think), and it was fine. I was not nice to it, either. The weak link was the rear diff mount bushing, but once I built that up with some black RTV, it was good to go. Low range launches, kick it into high after I topped out in 4th low, and it could actually merge!

The chart is here in about 40 different posts, but yes the P/T has a lower low range, and it's FWD when it's not locked in. The AWD one is always putting power to the rear wheels, typically has a 3.70 gear ratio, but is otherwise the same.

No, you'll bend the yokes, they're pretty soft. Cut the center out, and drive the cups towards the inside. File out the stake marks, and then install the new joint. Some of the replacements are designed to be staked back in, those I just put three or four tack welds around the outer edge of the cup and have not had a problem with them. The style with the inner snap clips has failed on me before, the clips suck because there is no real surface for them to hold against on the yoke.