4x4_Welder

It's road crown. A good alignment shop (dealers are not good alignment shops) will correct for it at your request. I have done alignments with people in the car (350lb+ guy in a Cavalier), and I had many loyal customers who would find me when I changed shops. I'd have to say 60-70% of my work was repeat customers, and word of mouth. Just be aware that if the alignment is adjusted for the road crown, the car will pull left in the left lane a bit harder.

When you flex the universal joints through their range of motion, is the movement butter smooth or does it hang up anywhere? If it hangs up, then there's your problem. The most common failure for EA82 driveshafts is joint seizure, due to a nearly 0º angle, and the fact that they can't be greased. Chances are it's a seized joint and it's very closely related to the engine jumping all over the place. Full range of motion is metal to metal contact in all four basic directions. If you cannot get the two yokes to touch, the universal is seized.

Not really, I sold the injectors off it.

It's a suggestion, yes. This site is one of the few I visit that has a very good classifieds section, and it gets better with every person that uses it. Not to mention I am one of those currently parting an EA82T and selling the intake would help fund my swap.

Everything's different, front and rear. Lot more to it than just swapping hubs.

You could inquire of those parting EA82T engines- Although mine is short the injectors now.

If it just had the pads changed last time around, you should break the glaze on the rotors. I use a roloc buffing pad in a die grinder, but you could also just take them in and have them turned. It's only about $7-$8 apiece, and rather easy to remove them on your car.

I wouldn't go that far, you don't want to damage the valve stem. I would only hand-lap, if needed, using Clover Compound. Start with the coarse, and work your way down to the extra-fine until you just have a matte finish. Typically, a good three-angle job will have very little contact area, but a larger contact area isn't a bad thing. The valve will stay cooler and seal a little bit tighter.

I'd do a check on the valves to see if they need to be lapped. Use a magic marker, and color in the seating surfaces on both the valve and head. Use a lapping tool to spin the valve back and forth in the head for about 15seconds. Pull the valve back out, and check the marks. If there is good smooth consistant contact all the way around both the valve and seat, then install as is. If there is any spot in the seating ring that is not touched, then lap it until it is all consistant. If there is a gap along one side of the valve, and not the seat, then the valve is bent or there is a mis-alignment between the seat and guide.

The EA82 D/R 5speed is a part-time case, except for the XT one. I wouldn't willingly downgrade something to a 4speed. Build a unique multi-function vehicle around one, yes, but not put one in to gain low range.

The general rule of thumb is that you can replace the followers or lifters without replacing the cam, but if you replace the cam you must replace the followers or lifters. You can get away with used roller followers as those don't match to the cam like flat tappets. As I said over there, make sure everything else is in good shape. These things do pop out, but there's usually a reason.

Only if your Loyale has a different driveshaft than any other Subaru I've been under. The only thing I've seen with a CV on the driveshaft was a Bronco II. You can get under your car and double check, but all the EA82s I've been under had a regular universal joint there, along with the center support bearing.

There is no CV boot on the rear driveshaft. There are CV boots on the axles, but you won't be pulling those to fix a universal in the driveshaft.

Combine that with a keeper that hasn't been baked to the valve stem and it'll all pop apart. In your FTE post, I didn't realize it actually popped the spring off and dropped the valve too- I've never seen an engine survive that before, but then again I've never seen a Subaru drop a valve.

The pinion gear shaft is also the countershaft in the transmission, it's a bizarre setup unlike most any other one. It's got other gears on it, and as has been mentioned there may be differences in that part. It's been done, it can be done, you just have to be careful.

No, it's under the hood. There's a fuse box near the steering column, as well as your fuel pump controller. Get a digital multimeter, and check for a/c voltage at the output on the alternator with the engine running. If it shows over about .3vac, you have a bad diode in the alternator and it'll need to be replaced. Usually they show .1vac or less, or 4vac or higher. You'll get the most accurate reading right off the back of the alternator.

Looks like an early 80s F-series speedo- Is there a build thread on this?

Actually, if you use a modified planetary gearset, you can have all the gear reduction you want with no reversal of the shaft direction, and you can even keep your outboard brakes. It's actually very simple- No sun gear, internally toothed ring gear attached to the hub, axle shaft comes into the planet position. Two simple, readily available seals and grease and you're set. FWIW, if you get a CNC with a vertical rotary indexing table, you'll have a gear hobbing machine. Ship the bits up to me, I'll harden them and lap them together if you'd like, I have the tools and know-how for that. Any chain is going to fail once dirt gets into it, it's a lot easier to get a sealed greased gearset to last. I've worked on enough supposedly sealed greased chain drives in tillers to know they wear quickly, auto tensioning or not. Besides, why make it "OK"?

Geeze, welcome to 1908. Why not a modified planetary arrangement? I'd think that would cut maintenance greatly, plus you wouldn't have to worry about a chain abandoning ship while on the road-

Lay the tire face down, put a yardstick across the back of it, and use a ruler to measure to the mounting surface.

You have a leaking injector or ruptured fuel pressure regulator. If you need any parts outside the coil (already requested), let me know, I'm parting out an 89 T-wagon.

How did that plug look when you pulled it? Was it black and kinda sooty looking, wet, or white? Does the car burn oil?

Odd- I know my 2wd Legacy donor has 25spline axles with a 5speed, but it's a much larger car with a bigger engine. On edit: The 93-94 Impreza 2wd manual has it's own axles. The 2wd auto has the same axles as any of the AWD ones.

They're made by Mac, if I can get my brain to function in this heat I'll check the part number when I go back out to the swap shack.

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/how-does-it-work/basic-air-conditioner-operation.php If it has a/c, then the switch to actuate it is right there on the heater control panel, and is either marked A/C or it has a snowflake symbol.