4x4_Welder

My wife's Wagoneer has a Detroit locker up front and an open rear diff- I really dislike that setup. It's impossible to steer under power in mud and snow, since both tires want to go the same speed. It just plows straight. Ideal setup is a good automatic locker in the rear, with a selectable in the front. I don't think ARB has one for a Subaru though-

The cap is supposed to vent at 1.5psi (usually), the purge canister is closed off to the tank while the engine is running. So, you head out early in the morning, the tank heats up while you drive, and soon enough it's over the 1.5psi.

I had to cut the ones off my EA81, I used a thin cut disk down the side, hammered a chisel into the gap, and it popped off with minimum additional "convincing".

Yes, the EA82 actually runs halfway decent with the right side cam off a tooth. I got mine that way, didn't know it until I changed the belts about six months later though.

EA81s had electric fans as well. Not sure if their a/c models had an engine driven, fan or not. There isn't provision for one on a non-a/c car I know- the water pump pulley is pressed on.

Basically, yes. The sound you are listening for is a whir/whine noise. Double check the pump before you replace it, though- Go to Autozone and rent a fuel pressure tester -not the pressure/vacuum gauge, you want a pressure tester for an efi car- You may have to tee in at the fuel filter on your car, not sure if it has the pressure test port. If you have no or very little pressure, then replace the pump. If you have ~45psi of pressure, then there's another problem.

Ok, you sent me the PM one minute before you posted this. Last thing I knew on Saturday you said (again) you would overnight them. I didn't have a whole lot of belief in this this time, on Sunday you said something about bringing them here. I didn't see you or a package from you on Monday, today I actually had all three standard services here (USPS, UPS, and FedEx), no package from you on any of the trucks. I really am not taking any stock in you saying now that they've been shipped. If they indeed have, and were shipped before I posted this, then I will take it all back and ask for this to be removed. If, however, the time/date stamp show it was shipped AFTER this thread was posted, then I am going to post a picture of the label as proof, and there will be no denying it. I really don't give a rat's rump roast about the money. It's not important. I'm just trying to not have my wife and two kids in an unsuitable vehicle without a/c during the first real heatwave of the year. Also, I fight single-front battles generally. This thread is here, I'm sick of having to empty my PM box.

Dude, that was three weeks ago. You said you would overnight them last week. I told you I needed them several times, and every time you would say they're on their way.

To remove the fan, remove the nuts holding it to the water pump pulley. The fan shaft has flats to put a wrench on so it doesn't turn. That also releases the water pump pulley so you can get to all the bolts.

Yeah, I was hoping that the past year and the previous wakeup ban had helped him see the way he had needed to go. Not the first time I've been wrong though.

Not a bad car. Will they offer a wagon version too? On a side note, aren't those pics the southern shore of Hood Canal, just across from Tahuya?

It's been a month, and still no injectors. I know you were able to afford shipping because you spent ten times what shipping would have cost on another car. This is not the way to deal with people if you want them to buy parts, have you make harnesses, etc. I found another set, just keep the damn money. I'm not so hard up that $30 is going to hurt bad. FWIW, this is the last possible outcome I wanted from this situation. This does not make me happy, but there really isn't much choice now is there?

Have someone turn the key on while you listen at the fuel filler for the pump. The relay clicking (there are three or four that click when you turn it on anyways) doesn't mean the fuel pump is working.

If it's spinning the engine over normally, then it doesn't need a jump start. If it's spinning over properly, then it's not a cranking issue. It's a running issue. These can be one of four things: fuel air spark timing If it ran, it obviously has compression. If it sounds funny turning over, it might have a broken timing belt. If it doesn't have fuel pressure, then it's probably the fuel pump. If it doesn't have spark, it could be several different things on that particular engine, including fuses, relays, and harness issues. Most likely thing for a suddenly and intermittently non-running engine is fuel pump. Pop the gas cap open, and have someone turn the key to "on" while you listen at the gas cap opening. If you don't hear anything, your fuel pump isn't running.

Ok, if it's turning over then it's not having trouble cranking. Check your fusible links in the underhood fusebox.

Only on 90% of my vehicles and about 20 heavy trucks.

If he thinks the starter motor is fine, then what does he think it is? Get yourself a manual, most of even the cheap ones have the test procedures for your problem. It still sounds like cables to me- Does it even click or do anything when you crank it?

If the turn counting doesn't work, or your alignment is off to begin with, then you can do a simple alignment with a tape measure, crayon and a friend- Jack the front end up one side at a time just enough to be able to spin the tires. While spinning the tire, make a mark down the center of the tread with a crayon, then put that tire back on the ground. Do the same on the other side. Have a friend hold the end of the tape measure against this line on the rear side of the tire, then see what the distance is to the line on the other tire. Do the same thing in front of the tires. Since you're fairly low on the tire, you want the front to be 1/16" narrower than the rear. This will get you in a decent ballpark range for toe-in. One warning- the car has to have the full weight on the tires or this won't work. As the suspension lifts, your toe changes.

Have fun, you're pulling the hubs too since the rotors are bolted to the backside of them. If you're just carrying the rotors out and comparing them to the wheel stud pattern, you're way off. The rotor mount pattern is much smaller than the wheel lug pattern. If you don't have the tools to pull the hubs off, I would take it to someone who does. You might also want to see if the rotors can be turned. Many shops now have lathes that turn the rotors on the car, saves a bundle on labor for these cars.

That forward universal joint failed, and when the driveshaft got off balance, it ripped the rear housing off. There isn't anything to really worry about with that bind, it's not like the manual torque bind. I have heard of the 16 blinks thing, I think it has something to do with duty solenoid C- the one that controls the 4x4 engagement. It could be that the computer isn't seeing the correct amount of slip between the sensors. You also have to pull the rear housing off to get to that solenoid, and it's a dealer part. No bad to change at all once it's apart, though. Changing the O2s wouldn't have any effect on the power to it cutting in and out. It might just be a loose plug. Not a really critical thing on the rear one anyways, since after initial warmup it doesn't need to be heated anymore. Rear sensor number for reference is Bosch 15726, universal heated sensor. Usually under $60.

If you want to make it an AWD, I will have a 4EAT, harness, TCU, and matching rear diff available very soon. The trans should be out tomorrow, the rest in the next week or so.

This is your transfer clutch: This is where it goes: Although yours is in better shape. What happens is those teeth you can see on the inside in the upper pic wear grooves in the outside of that drum in the lower pic, and keep the clutch engaged more than the computer wants to keep it engaged. If you sand these grooves out, it won't bind.

Nice- One of these days I'm going to have to visit back out that way. My wife's never been there, and I know it's changed a lot since i lived there. I do have fond memories of being at that boat ramp the weekend of my 10th birthday, though, and also being drenched at the Boyscout jamboree at Brunswick NAS two years later. My air mattress floated-

You don't need the additive, you have an automatic. There is no differential for the rear output, just another clutch pack. The ATF has all the additives it needs. The front differential is sealed separately from the transmission, and has gear oil in it. The binding is likely caused by the output clutch itself. Over time, the clutch plates wear grooves in the inner drum, if you feel so inclined you can pull the rear housing off the transmission and file or sand the inner drum to get rid of the grooves. I did this as a preventive measure while I was replacing the output housing on mine, and have had -zero- bind issues.

Yep, easiest way is to yank the engine.