hankosolder2

Let us know if "doubling up" the VSS sensor works. I'm curious! Nathan

I think it will work fine if you can get the magnet spacing right. The "spiky" signal Nipper is referring to is contact bounce (i.e. the reed switch contacts do not create as neat a pulse as the solid state hall effect VSS sensor.) However, contact bounce will not damage the ecm, simply because the switch is driving a non-inductive load. (What he said would be 100% right if you were switching a solenoid, a motor or other inductive load.) Contact bounce COULD cause strange or erratic operation, but it shouldn't damage anything. You may need to use a pull up or pull down resistor with the reed switch (I didn't look at the link to see if that's included.) I may have a better idea...why not drive the VSS2 sensor off the other VSS sensor? I.e. float the +5 and ground wires to the front sensor, then connect run a wire so it gets pulses from the rear sensor. (this is assuming that they normally output the same number of pulses per wheel revolution.) I think this will fool the ecm and should be fairly low risk. (but don't come knocking on my door if you jazz the car up!) Of course, FWD fuse must be in... Plan "C" -register the car at an address which is not subject to vehicle inspection. Good luck, Nathan.

Hey gang, I'm sure some of you have heard that there's legislation in the pipleline to mandate stability control for the 2010 model year vehicles. Does anyone know the legislation allows the stability control to be switchable? (I.e., can you defeat it if you wish to do so via a dash switch?) Nathan

Ted, There should be an SOHC 2.5 in the newer style Legacy. These have an external headgasket leak problem, but unlike the earlier HG issues these are usually covered by Subaru up to 100K miles. I think it's a pretty robust car aside from that, so just all the usual used car checks apply. I'm sure others will know more. Nathan

Tough what I don't understand is that if it is a bad thermostat (i.e., opening only at higher temps), why did coolant temp decrease quickly right at 3000 RPM? If it was bad, I'd suspect it would want to overheat and stay that way. My mechanic suggested that the coolant temp sensor may be screwy - has anyone had experience with this, and has it produced similar results? I have seen problems with the coolant temp sensor (on BMWs, not subies) where a one degree difference in actual coolant temp can cause a vast difference in the gauge readings. You could monitor the temp by other means or just change the sensor (the one for the gauge, not the one for the engine control computer) and see what happens. I second replacing the thermostat with oem. Perhaps the water pump is sucking a bit harder at higher RPMS and is forcing a slightly sticky T-stat to open fractionally more. (Clutching at straws here.) Checking the radiator for proper flow (as others have suggested) can't hurt either. Best of luck, Nathan

This is timing belt driven water pump. I can't see how wobble in a crank pulley could damage a part which is not driven by it! (i.e. the pump is driven by the toothed sprocket behind the crank pulley.) If we know the failure mode of the pump (seals bad, bearings OK? Bearings shot? ) that would be helpful info. I say either crud in the cooling system, substandard aftermarket pumps or a problem with the T-Belt tensioner binding or something. Good luck! Nathan

If your have any other suggestions as to what I can do plz let me know. Also I have noticed that the car temp sensor seems to warm up pretty fast it's fully warm in like 2 minutes of driving lightly. Is it possable a fualty temp sensor can cause all these problems? Thanks in advance You could have a faulty coolant temp sensor. Check with an ohmmeter or just replace. You could have a dribbling injector(s)...from the readings, it seems to be running rich at idle. A dribbling injector would be more of a problem at low RPMs; at wider throttle openings and higher RPMs, a small steady leak from an injector would be swamped out. Never heard of this on Subarus, but a faulty fuel pressure regulator or leaking vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator could cause problems. Any trouble codes stored? Compression test OK? Good luck, Nathan

Gary- that's a good point, but do you think that '03s and up have had a long enough service history to be sure that the problems are solved? I hope that they are...I don't know about you, but it's hard for me to feel comfortable recommending a Suby to friends looking for a pre '03 used car, knowing that they might be stung with a HG issue. I still think that 7 years was a pretty long time not to get it sorted out, especially considering that after the Phase I EJ25 issues, Subaru had a good opportunity to make improvements when designing the Phase II SOHC EJ25, and managed to engineer in HG issues on that engine too. Anyway...Happy New Year! Here's to solid sealing between the heads and block in the coming year! Nathan

I personally think the 2.5 HG issue is unacceptable; Subaru has been having HG problems for almost ten years...phase I and phase II EJ25s...with the added bonus of piston slap thrown in. With other manufacturers, you can avoid the problematic drivetrain combinations and still have wide choice of models to choose from (i.e. don't buy a Honda with the V6 /automatic trans combo & you're good to go.) In the USA, Subaru uses the EJ25 pretty much across the board, except for the H6 cars....the 2.0 turbo is gone from the WRX now, right? Don't get me wrong, I like Subarus, but Subaru deserves every bit of grief they get over these issues...and it is understandable that a customer who had a "mickey mouse" repair such as coolant conditioner (done under warranty) should resent having to pay to do the job properly later, even if the car is at 150K. Nathan

[My car is well passed and beyond the warranty coverage and so are many that have experienced this problem. I cannot afford the repair cost and I, as everyone else, think that this should be treated as a recall by Subaru. When taken to the dealership, many have been hit with a $600.00 (more or less) charge/estimate for the repair/fix! Subaru of America even issued a "quick-fix/suggestion" to replace a faulty fuel line and a hose that attaches to this...but not a formal recall!!! . In case you haven't heard or experience this problem, just wanted to make you aware and if you have some info, please share it. Any tips on how to fix it are better than paying $600.00 bucks! Thanx. I would be curious to know what parts are being changed for $600. That sounds steep for anything related to fuel lines. If indeed the car is leaking fuel, or fuel vapor, that probably technically violates the EPA regs regarding HC & evaporative emissions...the emissions warranty (mandated by the EPA) on the car is typically much longer than the standard manufacturer's warranty. Perhaps you should file a complaint with the EPA, or suggest to Subaru that this issue is a violation of EPA regs? Anyway, isn't $600 about one months insurance payment on a WRX? Hope you get it sorted out, Nathan

As far as I know, Hondas are the sole exception to the "all engines spin clockwise" rule. Late model Hondas no longer spin counterclockwise and now have gone to clockwise rotation as well, so they can sell their engines to other manufacturers (like GM.) The one disadvantage to counterclockwise engine rotation is that you can't do the "put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and hit the starter" techinque- when changing the timing belt! Nathan

thermostats on a fuel injected engine are very important parts of the engine managment system and i wouldn't mess around without one too long. Agreed. Running no t-stat on a car with a coolant temp sensor is essentially like driving a carburated car with the choke always partially on, as the CTS will cause mixture enrichment and it'll never run closed loop. If you really wanted to half rump roast it right, it would be possible wire up a switch and a resistor of the appropriate value in paralell with the coolant temp sensor to fake the computer into running in closed loop mode. Look at the chart of coolant temp sensor values for the normal engine operating temp (say, 470 ohms at 180 degrees.) Measure actual coolant temp sensor resistance at your typical running-no-thermostat-but it's as warmed up as it's going to get temp (say, 750 ohms.) Calculate the appropriate value of resistor to put in paralell with the 750 ohm CTS output to bring it to the appropriate value of 470 ohms. The formula for this would be (1/750) -(1/470) = 1/X With X representing the value of your unknown paralell resistance- in this case, 1258 ohms. Once the car is as warmed up as it's going to get without the thermostat, flip the switch to make the ECU think the car is at operating temp and it will go into closed loop mode at least= better MPG and cleaner running. Or, you could just do the job right & replace the headgaskets. Nathan

The rationale behind the "no used cats" rule made sense back in the day, but it seems silly in the age of OBD II cars; if a used cat isn't performing correctly, it will set a check engine light & trouble code for low catalyst efficiency. So now, rather than receiving a perfectly good used cat off a wrecked car, lower value cars with bad cats tend to be sold and migrate to states without emissions inspections. (Or, here in Illinois, to counties without emissions inspections.) It's a net negative effect for the environment. Nathan

A little more info: you also need the 2.2 coil pack, plug wires, engine wiring harness, etc. The 2.5 AC compressor, Alternator, PS pump will swap right over. The stock 2.5 ecu will work just fine, and the '95 engine harness will plug right in to the connectors by the transmission. Works great. Nathan

Haven't experienced this problem in my Subaru, but my '91 BMW 318iS does something similar...it develops mild clutch judder when being driven in stop & go traffic and the temps go up. Replaced the clutch (disc, pressure plate & throwout bearing) for another reason...new clutch does the exact same thing. Evidently this is a common issue with this car. Anyway, I think that I would lean towards seconding 99OBW's thoughts; motor/trans mounts; the clutch itself is probably what's causing the judder, but if everything else was in good shape, you'd never notice it. Mounts may have been strained during the clutch installation. Alternately, perhaps the shop which did the clutch used a non OEM grade clutch disc which has linings which get funky when they heat up. Good luck! Nathan

Well, not to state the obvious, but you could go the hack route and just run a new wire from the switched side of the relay to the fuel pump...just under the carpet or something- then maybe do your real troubleshooting of the factory harness once the weather improves? Nathan

Did you ever get yours back on the road? H6 swap or not? Just curious. Nathan

Sealed system? Most Japanese cars have a bleeder hole in the brake fluid resevoir cap...if it was a truly sealed system, a vaccuum would be created as the brake fluid level drops due to pad wear and the greater extension of the caliper pistons. Older GM vehicles use that rubber bellows-type doohickey on the master cylinder cover to allow the level to drop w/o needing an air vent to the atmosphere. It's nice to know that they came up with one good idea at GM! If not rust, what causes caliper pistons to stick? Surely you've seen this in cars which have good dust boots? It seems to happen most often in older cars which have been left sitting. Nathan

That shouldn't matter a bit. I'm still thinking head gaskets. Nathan

I doubt you can find an aftermarket fob which will work with your OEM system. You could install a complete aftermarket system or, if you're crafty, take the OEM fob housing apart completely; pull the rubber buttons and the circuit board out. Seal the holes for the buttons from the back with tape, run a ring of tape around the edge of the front housing protruding above the edge, then pour some 5 minute epoxy to build up the surface by 1/8" or a little more. Let it harden, take a dremel tool or something and cut /grind the epoxy out where the buttons go through. Reassemble and voila' - recessed buttons you won't accidentally bump. Please note- I have not actually tried this, and accept no responsibility if you jazz up your fob. If done carefully, I think it would work fine. Good luck and remember- fortune favors the brave. Nathan

And finally, is there really anything to govern how close to the mileage that a shop quotes is on an engine\transmission re: how much it actually has? Seems like a *lot* of units stating ~80-90k miles, which seems just about enough to be possible though not too much to be too worn.... Without knowing a guy or shop, (have already been strongly warned away from the folks down at Hunts Pt here in NY as being complete sharks...), is there any convention that would suggest any unit had the mileage stated? (he asked skeptically)... Also saw the post on the little melty deals, to tell if an engine had been cooked.... are these on all engines? If so where? Is this a useful diagostic? -John I discovered a little trick; Subaru puts a VIN on their engine blocks... run a Carfax on the vin # and you'll be able to see the last recorded mileage. In my case, I discovered my '95 donor engine had 140K miles on it the last time it was titled. Runs great, needs no oil between changes. Don't get too fixated on mileage. You can also see how the oil that's in the engine looks. Good luck, Nathan

I would use a spray bottle and spray it down the thraot of the snorkle of the air box, AFTER the air filter. nipper I think that is a VERY bad idea on a car with a hot-wire MAF sensor, and poses a significant risk of damaging the expensive MAF sensor. Frankly, I also question the need to decarbonize a modern engine...the tighter regulation of fuel/air mixture in a port injected car compared to old carburated cars means that there tends to be few carbon deposits. I haven't found much of anything in the various engines I have stripped down over the years. Nathan

I hate to suggest this, but there are "fakeout" oxygen sensor simulator kits which will generate a signal to simulate the output of a rear 02 sensor monitoring a correctly functioning catalytic converter. Some fakeout kits (the really simple ones, using just a diode and a resistor) will cause the OBD2 readout to fail the "readiness" test- but that's of no consequence to you if you don't have to pass an emissions test where the computer is scanned for trouble codes. It will keep the CEL off, but the CEL will come on if another sensor fails or problem develops, which is good. Of course, it's on your conscience whether you feel comfortable driving a car that's polluting more than it should. Good luck! Nathan

So sorry to hear about your experience. It's a drag when a _junkyard_ engine is a dud, but when you go the "safe" route of paying for a rebuild -w- warranty, you expect years of good service. Did you pay for this engine with a credit card? Perhaps your credit card co will allow you to do a chargeback. Even if not, you can threaten to do a chargeback to add some leverage to your negotiations with the rebuilder. At this point, I'd be angling for your money back, not a 3rd engine from the same company. Nathan

Ben, Are you planning on swapping over the EGR control solenoid & backpressure valve from your 2.5 onto the 2.2? They might be the same- if not, you'll need those. I think you also mentioned that there was no connector for the solenoid in the wiring harness...so you'll need a harness too. I think (not sure!) it is possible to adapt a 2.5 wiring harness to be used on a 2.2, but the connector for the ignition coil is definitely different. You can "frankensplice" the 2.2 coil connector on to the 2.5 harness. I used a complete '95 engine harness so I don't have a definitive answer for you as to the similarity or difference between the connections to the other sensors, etc. between the 2.2 & 2.5 I don't know about the EGR valves themselves; could you get a Subaru parts person to look up the part numbers for the 2.2 EGR valve and the 2.5 EGR valve and see if they match? Don't forget about the interconnecting metal tube between the head and the EGR valve...you're not going to find one of those at Pep Boys! Good luck, Nathan