hankosolder2

OK, well, I just decided to pop for one on e-bay, so no need to waste time looking for one. Thanks so much for the offer though! Nathan

Thanks for the responses, guys. I'll check e-bay for them, if not, then it's nice to know that the universal one fits well. Unless WAWalker comes through for me- let me know if you find one kicking around... Nathan

Hi all, I'm finally getting around to dropping the ej22 into my '98 Legacy outback and was wondering if anybody knows where to get one of those plastic molded clutch disc alignment tools for a Subaru? Usually they are included when you buy an aftermarket clutch kit, but I bought OEM parts and consequently didn't get one. I've used those "universal" alignment tools in the past (with the cone and the interchangable sleeves to fit into the center hole of the pilot bearing) and wasn't really impressed with how it worked (it was on a Honda and the amount of free play in the alignment tool made it completely worthless.) Anybody have pointers or a source for buying the plastic alignment tool? thanks, Nathan

I'm swapping in a '95 EJ 22 into my '98 EJ25 Outback wagon... while I've got the engine out of the car, I'm going to do the clutch and some other stuff...I need a bit of advice... 1.) Do most people prefer an OEM subaru clutch or aftermarket? I have heard complaints of prematurely chattering OEM Subaru clutches. BS or a real issue? 2.) I suppose I should replace the rear oil separator plate (did a search for the p/n for a metal one--I swear I saw a thread on that here the other day.) Does anyone have the p/n handy? I'm also going to do the rear main crank seal and the o-ring for that cover on the back of the camshaft...anything else I'm forgetting here? I'm going to deal with the timing belt, water pump & front seals once I have the engine in the car and know it's not a dud-- it's a junkyard engine. 3.) Just to double check, I am planning on bolting up the 2.5 flywheel & pressure plate to the 2.2 engine. This will fit, right? 4.) The EJ22 uses a formed in place oil pan gasket, no? What is the best sealant for this application? Answers & any other pointers will be appreciated. Hopefully I haven't worn you folks out with my questions... Thanks! Nathan

.Should ask, do you have a CEL on? If you do start there, go to Legacy777 website to find info on how to retieve the codes. Good Luck Beezer Thanks for your thoughts. Nope, no CELs. Actually, the last time the coolant temp sensor failed, it did set a CEL. Just for kicks, I think I'll check the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter when I have a chance. I had one other thought- do the fuel pressure regulators ever flake out on Subarus? If fuel pressure was too high, it could cause overfuelling when the car is running "open loop," but perhaps the 02 sensor could compensate for the over rich condition once the car is up to temp. It seems to run too well to really have a problem like this though... Nathan

My wife's '94 Legacy (2.2, 4EAT, AWD) wouldn't start today. Intermittently, in colder weather it will crank at a normal speed, sometimes it will sputter & try to fire, but will inevitably flood. 99% of the time it starts and runs perfectly, hot and cold. Previously, this would happen about once or twice each winter- I would remove the gas soaked plugs, dry 'em and it would start and run fine. I replaced the coolant temp sensor for the ECU a year or two ago, plugs are new (OK, they are Bosch platinums, but the same problem happened with NGKs earlier this year) new air filter, fresh battery and NO driveability problems whatsoever other than the intermittent no start when cold. I'm baffled. It really seems like it's overfuelling the car, but why? MAF sensor? BTW, the car has 217K on it, but does not consume oil(!) so I don't think it's a low-compression engine wear / oil fouling the plugs issue. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. (Today, to get it to start I pulled the injector wires off, cranked it for a while to clear the flood, re attached wires, started right up and ran perfectly.) thanks, Nathan

RE: your earlier question about EGR- does the JDM engine even have the tapping on the driver's side cylinder head for the EGR pipe to attach to? You might be able to fake it out by mounting an egr type intake manifold & the egr valve...let the egr valve suck air (filtered perhaps?) At least this way, the 02 sensor will see a change in the mixture when the EGR valve opens...might keep the CEL off? Dunno. As to identifying the engine type- In '97, I believe, the 2.2 switched from hydraulic to solid lifters. Pull a valve cover off and you should see threaded screw-type adjusters if this is the case. (I think only the 2.5 used shims.) I think the hydraulic lifters can be replaced with the engine in the car... You could try something a little unorthodox ( haven't tried it, just an idea) I wonder if you could do a cranking compression test and then a RUNNING compression test by leaving the compression tester in the one suspect cylinder and running the car on the other 3 cyls. If you do try that , it might be wise to pull the connector for the injector for the suspect cylinder & also leave the plug wire connected to the coil pack & removed spark plug -ground the outer threaded part of the plug. (so you don't fry the coil pack or other electronics.) Well, those are just my screwball ideas- I am not an expert...maybe others will be able to help more. Nathan

Steve- I'm in the middle of doing the exact same swap myself, so this is the voice of "research" (mostly gleaned from this message board) rather than the voice of experience (at least at this point!) The '95 2.2 two port motor should bolt up OK to the 2.5 manifolds. If you're concerned, why not take the old manifold gasket from the 2.5 and check that it matches up to your new 2.2? (Or order some new 2.5 manifold gaskets if you have not yet pulled the 2.5.) Best of luck... Nathan

Aaah, the good folks at CCR are chiming in! Thanks for the info Emily. Wonder why on earth they would change the coil pack depending on the trans type- but I will take your word on it. So, a '95 Legacy 2.2 MT motor will have an EGR port? I have received lots of conflicting info on this & have seen a picture of a '95 5-mt engine bay which did not seem to have EGR- but maybe someone had fiddled with it. Nathan

Thanks, that's some good info. You're calling BS on the ECU incompatability issue AT vs MT (which makes sense.) Obviously, the less differences, the less redundant inventory for the manufacturer. Still, I wonder why junkyards make such a fuss about whether the engine came from an AT or MT car...if they were 100% interchangable, why wouldn't they just inventory them all together? Nathan

OK, so I've got the 2.5 engine out of my '98 Legacy OBW (5MT)..I'm planning on swapping in an ej22, I've read the various threads on the subject and was wondering if anyone could clarify a few points so I don't buy the wrong parts and make an expensive mistake. The '95 dual port Legacy engine is the hot ticket, or you can use the later single port ej22s by changing the Y pipe to the new style. Here's what I need to know: 1.) Does the '95 5-mt engine have an EGR port? I have heard that the only '95s with EGR were from automatic donor vehicles. 2.) Do ALL '96 ej22s have EGR ports? 3.) Are engines from MT and AT donor vehicles interchangable or not? I have heard that for some suby engines, a MT ecu will not work with an AT donor motor...different # of teeth on the cam/crank sensor sprockets or something? 4.) Use the ej25 flywheel& clutch or the ej22 flywheel/clutch? 5.) Do I use the ej22 intake manifold with ej25 or ej22 injectors? Which throttle body should I use? 6.) Any other tips? Thanks! Nathan

Which 2.5? DOHC, SOCH? I just pulled a DOHC today ('98 Leg OBW) and there was only a single lifting eye (passenger's side as part of a combined bracket which has the three electrical connectors on it. I hooked on to rear eye & the AC compressor bracket on the driver's side front and that worked fine. As for the SOCH 2.5, that might be different. You could probably also thread chain or rope under the intake manifold if you leave it on the engine when you pull it. Good luck! Nathan.

Cookie, I pulled the engine today and your words were ringing in my ears...the engine was stuck to the trans- those darn pins were a real headache. Additonally, there are NO casting ears or anything you can pry against to help separate the engine from the trans. I ended up spraying with penetrating oil, put the clutch slave cyl back on and depressed the clutch pedal (hey, a little well centered force against the flywheel can't hurt) rocked, prodded, tapped and generally finagled for hours untill they split apart. It came apart kinda suddenly... I hope I didn't bend the input shaft to the trans or anything... the two lower studs on the block came out with the nuts, so there wasn't that extra guidance to take the strain. I think it's going to be ok. Nathan

Thanks! I needed confirmation from Someone Who Knows. As a side note...this is my first Subaru engine out job and I have to say what a pleasure it is working on a Suby! I've done engine out jobs on Hondas, BMWs, MGs, a Ford (uh, never mind that last one) and the Subaru is NICE NICE NICE to work on. Thanks again, nathan

Hi, I'm in the midst of pulling the engine on my '98 Legacy Ouback. The Haynes manual says to remove the intake manifold, etc. and I can't see any good reason to...with all the connectors & hoses disconnected it seems like the engine will come out just fine as a complete assembly with the manifold, TB etc. Do the good folks at Haynes know something I don't? Thanks, Nathan

Hi, Does anybody know what the interchangability between ej22 engines from AT to MT cars is? I have heard that some AT engines will not work with an MT ECU...true or not? When looking at a used engine, all the junkyards want to know what the trans type is and the last letter/digit of the VIN...so methinks there must be a difference. I'm looking to install a '95+ ej22 into my '98 Legacy Outback 5MT and don't want to buy the wrong engine. Any issues with swapping flexplates & flywheels? Pilot bearing? One other Q... I have read that the '95 legacy ej22 MT engine does not have an EGR port, but the AT engine does... there's a picture of the engine bay of a '95 MT legacy on e-Bay right now which supports that theory...so I'm wondering if my donor vehicle must be an AT. Hmm. Any thoughts will be appreciated, and thanks to grossgary for his earlier EGR/ dual port comments...I'm learning here. Nathan

Thanks! Nathan

Hi, I've got a '98 Legacy OB 5MT (EJ 25) and am planning on swapping in an EJ22 for reliability. I gather that the '95 legacy ej22 is the best bet for easy bolt up...due to having dual port heads and EGR. Here's my question: would a dual port ej22 block from another year work OK assuming you changed the heads to the '95 version? In particular, I'm thinking of the earlier '91-'94 dual port engines. Part two: the only reason to prefer the '95 over the '91-'94s is that the '95 has an EGR port, right? Has anyone simply defeated the EGR system and found a workaround so it doesn't trip the CEL? Thanks, Nathan