Loyale 2.7 Turbo

You're Welcome! ...and Thank you for your Kind words which are Really Appreciated. The problem is specific to the EA82 intake manifold, not due to the Bolt size, but due the Bolts' distance between each other, which makes necessary to use a Two adapter Plates arrangement, instead of a single one; that was the reason why I searched and found the Trans-Dapt alternative, which was designed for Datsuns. Yep! Kind Regards.

More Background info @ AUSubaru: ~► http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6077

Awesome! ... ... Good Luck! I know yours is an EA81 engine, and this Writeup on the Subject is about such conversion on a EA82 engine, but lots of info here applies to both engines: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ The main difference is on the adapter Plates. Kind Regards.

What I noticed immediately after driving the car, is that it now needs way less Foot / Pedal effort for the same stopping Power, but in exchange, the Pedal travels deeper, but the difference is pretty small. Now, instead of Engaging the Brakes with a Tall, Hard pedal, it goes down more travel, little spongy but now the brakes could be "Modulated" during the Pedal's down travel... So, with this 15/16" Master Cylinder, I gained a Pedal with better Modulation for slow stoppings / speed reductions; which needs ~ 50% less foot effort for giving strong clamping force to the Calipers... But, the first 2/3 of travel is softer than the last 1/3 of travel, and the main clamping force is on that last 1/3 which still is Hard to press. However, seems like such behaviour is Normal and logically understandable, due to the "Tandem" Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster. The Brake Power seems to be increased back to "Normal" once again, the Pedal is not stiff as it was with the 1" Master Cylinder, and the Pedal does Not go Deep, as it used to be with the 7/8" Master Cylinder; seems like the 15/16" is in Perfect Balance with the Calipers. I'll report the overall brakin' Behaviour as time passes by. Kind Regards.

This is How the 15/16" Master Cylinder looks already installed

I finished the Master Cylinder Swap, and then, with the Help of a friend I did four complete rounds of Brake Bleeding, each one was done in a Cross Pattern due to the Sephia's Diagonal Brake Lines Setup. We started from the rear wheel which is more far from the Master Cylinder, then the Front wheel in same circuit, then the other two starting in the Rear; I did twenty deep and hard pushes on the Brake Pedal prior to open the bleeding screw on each wheel, and I bled four times each wheel on each round, so the brake system should be Super air free.

The install was pretty Easy, after I changed the Flare fitting Brake Line with the Bubble fitting Brake Line, and twisted the other line that already had the Flared fitting for the Banjo Bolt adapter, it was only to Remove the Old master Cylinder, and install the New Master Cylinder. Took me around one Hour.

Then, I only needed to "Twist" a little bit, Carefully, the other Brake Line, in order to let it face up to the Banjo Bolt on the Master Cylinder.

Brake Lines The only problem was, that one of the two Outlets from the 15/16" Master Cylinder, was designed for the Bubble Flare fitting, while the other Outlet, goes to a Banjo Bolt, which was designed for the common Flare Fitting. As I Already changed the Brake Lines on the "KiaStein" to Flare Fittings instead of Bubble Fittings, in order to install the 1" Master cylinder... ...I had to obtain used Brake Lines from a local Junk Yard, to change only one that goes directly to the Master Cylinder... ...since Both brake lines goes from the Master Cylinder to the Distributor Block on the Firewall nearby, it was Easy to Change the one that needed to have Bubble Fitting again, I just needed the proper 11mm Wrench for Brake lines.

So, finally, I obtained the Proper 15/16" Master Cylinder online, from RockAuto.com Let me Show you the Three Different Master Cylinders Together: ► 7/8" was the Old one, which came with Front Disc / Rear Drum Brakes. ► 1" was the one I installed when I did the Rear Disc Brakes Swap. ► 15/16" is the Correct one, for the Four Disc Brakes' Setup. This is the one I installed now.

Don't get me Wrong... As I posted before, the Brakes on the "KiaStein" has been working Flawlessly, But After some Months Driving it with the 1" Master Cylinder, I could tell in the most Honest way I can, that the increased bore really gets Rid from the Deep Traveling / Spongy Feeling Brake Pedal, But such increased Bore provides increased Volume of Brake Fluid Moved on the lines, which is Versus the Pressure it Has. So, the more Volume moved, the less pressure it has. I already posted an explanation of the situation before: Long story Short: The 1" Master Cylinder, gives a Tall and Solid Brake Pedal Feeling, which makes braking to feel "Amazing" on Low speeds to Medium Speeds / Average driving situations; but the total Braking Force / Clamping force at the Calipers is Reduced, which is Noticeable during Panic Braking Only. With the 1" Master Cylinder, is not easy to lock the Wheels, and Panic Braking takes longer distances to Stop, plus the Pedal gets very Stiff on Deep Braking.

Update on Master Cylinder! Remember that the Second Gen Kia Sephia comes with a 7/8" Master Cylinder for the Front Disc / Rear Drum Brakes' Models; and comes with a 15/16" Master Cylinder for the Four Disc Brakes Models, from Factory. The 7/8" Master Cylinder gives a Deep Travel Brake Pedal, and I was afraid that it will go even deeper with Rear Discs instead of the old Drums; so I wanted to Change the 7/8" with the proper 15/16" one, as Kia engineers did, for the second gen Sephias with Rear Disc Brakes. But I Never found the Proper 15/16" Master Cylinder in Honduras, and I was Short of Money, so as I Wrote in previous posts: And that was what I did: I installed the 1" master cylinder.

I painted them in Yellow, because I had some High Temp Ceramic, caliper paint Leftovers from my Subaru "BumbleBeast", but they look dirty due to the Brake Pads Dust, they look nice if I wash them clean again. Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! Answering your Questions: to be Honest, you must be Aware about how are the Legal Regulations in your Area, Regarding Pollution Control, because if your Subie does Not need to pass emmissions nor having certain pollution control stuff attached, then you can feel Free to do the Weber Swap, and get rid of lots of Stuff, clearing the Engine Bay and turning your subie onto a more reliable Machine, while getting more juice from your Carburated EA engine... Otherwise, if the Pollution and Emmissions control laws are strict in your area, you can not do the Weber Swap easily... But you can improve the response of the Craptachi carb, by doing the Mechanical Conversion. Kind Regards.

Which Accelerator plate did you used? The one provided with the Weber carb, or the Old one from the Hitchi Carb? in my case, I used the Accelerator plate for the accelerator Cable, from the Old Craptachi Carb. Kind Regards.

In any case, here is a Link to a Writeup that resumes how to do a Mechanical Conversion on those Vacuum Activated Secondary, Hitachi Carbs: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147163-mechanical-conversion-on-hitachi-carburetors/ Kind Regards.

I never cut the Accord's front coil springs, when I used them along the original Subaru rear shock absorbers with flat base; Nor when I use them with the 4Runner shock absorbers with non-flat base; they work really Awesome like they are from factory. Kind Regards.

Yes, that makes sense, if you consider that the Hydraulic assisted Suspension was intended for leveling a Loaded Wagon. So if your Wagon is carrying some Load, Usually you don't want to go faster than 50 MPH / 80 KPH... otherwise the system switch off automatically after that speed limit is reached, in order to prevent Damages to the Hydraulic suspension Components if you hit a pot hole with the extra load. The Hydraulic assistance was intended for temporary use only, unlike the electro-pneumatic system which does Not have coil springs. Kind Regards.

With the introduction of the Subaru Legacy in 1989 (The Legacy Production started in December 1988) The change was previously featured in some Prototypes as well, during mid / late 1980's decade. Kind Regards.

The Height Adjustable Suspensions were Banned in the United States from 1974 to 1981, due to the Stringent interpretation of Passenger vehicle bumper height regulations by the U.S. government agency NHTSA. Subaru was one of a few manufacturers who offered such feature in the United States, after the ban was lifted, on the Subaru XT, the gen III Subaru Leone wagon (EA82), and the Subaru Legacy for a short time, but instead of Hydraulic, those newer suspension controls, were Electro-Pneumatic. I knew that Subaru offered Suspensions with some sort of "Height" Control, on certain "Top of the Line" pre 1985 models in some markets of the World except USA, due to said Ban; BUT those older suspension controls were Hydraulic instead. But as far as I know, it was Not Exactly a Height Control, but a Load control, in which by a Switch on the Dash, the Ride became a little higher but Harder, like in "Sport" mode of the old toyota celicas, with the Hydraulic system aid / Pressure; or the Ride becomes Softer and lower when the Hydraulic assistance is turned off. I never saw any hydraulic assisted suspension "in Person" but I heard about that in Honduras long years ago, the old Subaru Mechanics from the local Subaru dealer's repair shop, told me about such feature which came in few "Fully Optioned" Wagons. The Part Number you Provided: 21007GA280 Indeed belongs to a Third gen Leone, and is part of this List I have for such models: Thank you for sharing the actual parts' Photos, you're so Kind. Best Regards.

Something is Wrong here, you'll need Accord's FRONT springs for the Rear of your Loyale. Please review this Writeup for further details & Pics on such Modification: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ Me Neither. Kind Regards.

Don't Forget to swap the old incandescent bulbs, with multi-tip White Leds, Those Clusters looks beyond Awesome with them ... ... see: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led%C2%B4s/page-6?do=findComment&comment=1156772 Kind Regards.

Did you Tried Shellac there?

Por cierto... la foto no se ve. Vuelve a subirla. / By the way... the Photo doesn't show. Upload it again.

¡Bienvenido Tommy! / Welcome Tommy! Si, aquí usamos el Inglés / Yes we use English here Puedes Descargar los Manuales que necesitas, aquí / You can Download the Manuals, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1212255 Saludos desde Honduras. / Greetings from Honduras.