Loyale 2.7 Turbo

...add the extension for the Steering Shaft. Kind Regards.

Looking Good, Nice Job! Will you install the "Head" (Back) Rests? Kind Regards.

In my Case, (and also some other USMB Members who used Honda Accord coil Springs on the Rear) we've never need to cut anything from them and they work flawlessly, but two things that could be making a difference here are these: The use of Brand New Coil Springs, instead of Used ones. All the Weight removed from the car's interior. So, I hope that those coil springs will settle down soon, anyhow, Thomas, please let us Know the Results; also how do you feel the Front Suspension. Kind Regards.

Awesome, but where are the Photos? Yes. In my Case, I was the culprit who caused the Fail of that sensor, let me Explain: Long years ago, the Brake Pedal's return spring developed a squeaking sound every time it was pressed and also when it was released; so tired of that, some months ago I Shot some bursts of PB Blaster penetrating oil and then some shots of White lithium grease... the horrid noise went away, but short time after that, the sensor started to fail. At first, I removed that for deep cleansing but was almost impossible, the grease & oil found its way inside and preventing the electrical contact somehow; so I obtained the aftermarket unit, which I consider to be "Stronger" due to its full metallic pin, and the resistance that the internal spring has... or maybe the old one has become weak with age... Anyhow, I have brake lights once again. Kind Regards.

My Subaru "BumbleBeast" keeps working Flawlessly, but recently the Brake Lamps' Sensor started to Fail; so I Changed it with a stronger, aftermarket unit, which works perfect; I only had to swap the pigtail connector with my soldering gun, and Voilá! Kind Regards.

This is a Nice idea, developed in an Awesome way, Good Job Turbone! Kind Regards.

I Like that above your Subie says: "Feliz" which is Spanish for Happy! Kind Regards.

Yes, don't forget to share some Photos here with us! Kind Regards.

Yes, me too... I did the same in 1998 during the Hurricane Mitch; I was "Locked" inside the house for several days then due to the huge rainstorms. A pair of those switches had broken plastic housings, so I fixed them with JB Weld and I can not open them anymore... They lasted alright more than a Decade after that, and started to fail again in 2008; so I had to be Creative, since I can not open them anymore... I used "Electronic Contacts Cleaner" (the kind used for cleansing computer mainboards and other delicate components, and is Plastic Safe) in Spray, without disassembling anything and worked really Awesome. You only need to flip the Switch completely to the Down side and put the Spray's Straw the nearest you can of the Opening at the other Side, blasting quick bursts of cleaner fluid inside the Switch; and repeat the procedure with the switch flipped to the Up side; then let the fluid to evaporate, prior to move the key on the ignition. If the Switch remains wet, they'll emit a mute noise the first times those switches are used, and it dissappears quick. I never disassembled those Switches since then, the Spray works great. Kind Regards.

Why change a Rare-to-find 4X140 Pattern to another rare-to-find- 4X110? In my case, I redrilled the Hubs since year 1996, on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" from 4X140, to a more commercially available, 4X114.3 Pattern, and I run it like that since then, without issues; and that pattern gives you plenty of Rims to choose from. More info on my "BumbleBeast" Thread, clicking on my Signature. Kind Regards.

Well, I suggest you to start by taking out the spark plug from the failing piston, and exchange it with the spark plug from another piston to see if the problem changes location; in that case, the Spark Plug itself would be problem... If not, it could be that you have exchanged the wires by mistake... or in the worst scenario, that said failing piston has burnt valves; in such case you'll need to do a compression test. Kind Regards.

If the spark comes through the cable, the piston that does not work usually is due to a Damaged or failing spark plug, in which case I kindly suggest you to change them all, and Forget spending a lot on "Luxury" spark plugs, such as platinum, iridium, etc ... the best for Subaru EA series engines are the NGK, these come with them from Factory. Search: NGK BPR6EY11 The letter "Y" have a groove that supposedly adds to the spark, however if instead of "Y" they has another letter, nevermind, while the rest of the numbering remains the same. That noise or rattle you described on private message, on these engines usually is emited by the Hydraulic Lifters, when the oil pressure is insufficient and / or there is air entering the oil through the seal, shaped as "Mickey Mouse" head; which goes between the oil pump and the engine block. A particular sound that we know here as the "Tick of Death", which however does not kill the engine, only the hydraulic lifters themselves. In any case, you can do a chemical "Flush" to the engine, using a good quality detergent, to clean its internals and tiny oil passages, and use good quality motor oil after that. For information regarding motor oils, additives and the Flush, read this writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126284-how-to-determine-which-is-the-best-motor-oil-for-your-car/ What oil do you use? Best regards.

Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.

Welcome and I like your Awesome "Brat Lee" Kind Regards.

Yes, I agree... I use in my Wife's car, 15W~40 DELO 400 Motor Oil, which is a Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil made by Chevron, that also complies with the Best "SM" Gasoline Motor oil Requirements, and as far as I know, it also includes Zinc already mixed in their formula. ~► http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1633073 ~► http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=811427 Kind Regards.

A little off topic, but very kindly let me ask you which one you prefer and why, if you could obtain both at same price brand new: Platinum or iridium? Kind Regards.

Where will be the Fun then? I've seen a Honda Civic body with a Subaru WRX hiding underneath... ~► http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2763036 Anything is Possible with enough time, money, tools and Patience; and basically what they did then, was described best by Numbchux: Kind Regards.

Nice Stereo, those are short enough for the Placement, isn't it? Remember the Common ground wiring between the Speakers from factory, you must change it to independent wiring in order to let newer stereos to work as they should. Kind Regards.

Thank you for the Explanation. Kind Regards.

Yes, me too. Great improvement for sure. Here is the complete info on the alternate Suspension parts: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ (sorry for hijack the Thread) Kind Regards.

Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually Thins the ATF and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and much more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense, and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and much more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those ATF additives for short term use only, in example to work as detergents prior to a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. Kind Regards.

Don't forget to pour the Proper ATF for your Transmission as indicates the manual, remember that not all the ATF has the same properties, and using the wrong one might lead to improper lubrication, and even shearing of internal parts. In my Case, I filled the F-4EAT Automatic Transmission on the "KiaStein" with Valvoline's "High Mileage" ATF, plus one quart of Lucas "Transmission Fix" Additive; and that mix does work Awesome.

More than fifteen days and 750 Miles has passed already, since I reinstalled the Transmission back onto the "KiaStein" and it has been working Absolutely Flawlessly since then. Thanks to God. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Words. In the Carbureted EA82's the A/C system has a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold to an electric switch, located close to the two A/C Relays in the engine's bay; that switch sends vacuum via another vacuum hose to an accelerator actuator next to the accelerator's cable plate, every time the A/C is turned on... and thus explains how the RPM's raises everytime the A/C is On. Somehow I'm not sure right now how that configuration changed for the EFi EA82's ... however you can search for vacuum hose(s) unplugged, cracked or missing around those areas. Kind Regards.

There is a "Main" A/C Relay inside and is prone to fail with age, look for photos here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Kind Regards.