Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I Kindly suggest you to click on the above posted link, all the info is there. Kind Regards.

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/

Yes, but also this is very good advice: Kind Regards.

If you really cut the Strut Blocks in Angle, there is a Chance that you had flipped them 180º where those should be mounted, so they increase camber instead of decreasing it.

The Subaru FF-1 is very Rare now, have you checked if it came with the rare Dual Carb engine / inboard Disc Brakes? ... Usually those came with inboard Drum Brakes on the Front. And to place a Bigger engine on it, such like the EJ22 is (in my very own opinion) a pretty Bad idea, not only for the extra weight, size, etc... because with time + money anything could be Built; no. The reason is that the whole front of the Subaru FF-1 is designed in a way that it self sustains everything and has a delicate balance, where the fenders are only covers that does not play a supportive roll on the Body; and the front Brakes are placed on the Transmission (inboard) not on the Wheels... To transform this would be the purest mechanical nightmare, and does not worth the effort; so I believe that these FF-1 worth more restored, for their historical value. Do you have Photos of those "Custom Wheels"? Kind Regards

Awesome Job! I Really like this V2.0, looks super Solid. Can't wait to see more Updated of the Whole Beast! Kind Regards.

Did you know that the EA82 Rear Door's Glass is Bigger in the Wagon, than the Sedan? (here a Friend is holding it for the photo) I learned that on the Hard Way, you can see photos and full story, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150872-different-glass-sizes-%E2%96%BA-ea82-rear-passengers-doors/ Kind Regards.

I Shall say: You're Welcome! Dear USMB friends, the List ~► Here, is for my Downloadable Files, but the very first posts of this thread are an index to all my Writeups, so check those from post one, and if you find useful information on them, don't forget to let me know by hitting the "Like" Button Kind Regards.

Yes, but pretty slowly, while before, it moved very fast at same idle speed. I guess that behaviour caused the Vibration while stopped in "D" Kind Regards.

I took advantage of my "new" free time, since I was fired from my job where I was the last 14 years, I was fired for political reasons and I am completely apolitical. After I finished the Timin' Belt Job + Transmission's Repair to my Wife's car, the "KIaStein" and being working at the direct caribbean sunlight, I got very ill, now I have fever with flying numbers, so I'll stay in Bed for a While... At least the car is working Flawlessly once again, thanks to God. Kind Regards.

In fact, the transmission completely cleansed, with fresh Valvoline's High Mileage ATF oil and New -to me- Differential's side gears; has developed a new feature that I never experienced before in the Car; let me elaborate further. In the Past, since we obtained this car, on every single Semaphore (Red Light / Traffic Light) Stopping with the Shifter at "D" (Drive) position, the car shaked in a high pitch frequency, doing the hood and the dashboard plus its contents to rattle along; so we always shifted to "N" (Neutral) during small stoppings, and in downhill traffic jams, we had it on "N" (Neutral) and only used the Brake pedal to let it go / hold it in place, in that way we avoided that annoying rattle. Now things have Changed Dramatically; now we can leave the car in "D" (Drive) and it works like if there is some sort of "Clutch" that we never felt before; now the car stays stopped in "D" (Drive) so tranquil that you hardly believe it is not in Neutral. Also, when I first accelerate from the Stopping Point, where the car has been stopped in "D" (Drive) for a while, it takes a very small but noticeable delay in engage it on gear, so it starts moving very smooth, while in the past, the car wanted to Race all the Time, because with pretty little acceleration, it moved faster from Zero speed. That makes the Parking / Reversing maneuvers to be safer, because the driver knows it will not "Jump" with little acceleration, so the Driver feels more confident of this car. The rest of the Transmission's Performance is almost identical to what it used to be, the only minor difference is that it now downshifts a little quicker on steep hills. I've been driving the "KiaStein" for two days, doing many errands, and it feels way Better than Never, like a brand new Car. Kind Regards.

I Placed the Transmission back onto the "KiaStein" a couple of days ago; after I finished the Timing Belt Job; and the car has been Working Absolutely Flawlessly since then. I Obtained new Timin' belt Covers and New Hoses for the Transmission Cooling. Let me show you how a Timin' Belt with 100K miles looks like: It is amazing that this transmission has survived a grinded differential's side gears and 170,000 miles, and does shift so smooth and holds on gear so good, that seems to be ready for the next 170,000 miles!

Yes, he is Right, the Hyundai ThermoSwitch has been workin' Flawlessly for years on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" as I sated in this writeup: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Kind Regards.

But since the very first oil change, we've used 20W~50 on the EA82, the few times I used 15W~40, the Lifters became noisier. Kind Regards.

Thank Miles, I Really Appreciate your Kind Words. Let me add some information from Outside USA, only for sharing information. I talked with the old salesman at the last office of the Local Subaru Dealer, he said they always used 20W~50 on their EA81 and EA82, I believe it could be caused by our Warm to Hot Climates, here at the Caribbean. Also, according to my Dad, the Subie came new from a Dealer in California, filled with 10W~40, but it could be 15W~40, he doesn't remember clearly the first number, but he asked about that, then, because we always do our car's maintenance; he only remembers clearly the last number: 40. Kind Regards.

The Number will Also depend on your Area's Climate. In my case at the warm and stable caribbean climates, I always use my EA82 "BumbleBeast" with 20W~50, the last ten years I used Motul Brand, but I've switched recently to Valvoline's High Mileage 20W~50 Motor Oil, which develops quieter operation on my EA82. I bet you can find interesting info about motor oils, here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126284-how-to-determine-which-is-the-best-motor-oil-for-your-car/ Kind Regards.

Dear Josh, Thank you for your Kind Words, which are Really Appreciated. This Transmission was Originally Designed by JATCO (Japan Automatic Transmissions Company) in the Late 1980's decade, first was used by Subaru on their GL-10 EA82 Turbo, known then as the 4EAT, also it was used on the same era's Nissan Pathfinder, but in that case, it was coupled to a transfer with Dual Range. Then it was Modified to suit the needs of Ford, and renamed as the F-4EAT, which then was used in Mazda and Kia Products due to their ford assosiation... so this Transmission is the Kia Version of the 4EAT. More info, here: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#4EAT This one use the Same ATF Oil for the Differential; I talked to the repairmen at the Local Kia Dealer, in order to find out more information regarding the Premature Wear / Grinding of the Differential's side Gears, and they told me that the car must be not only very abused, but also a chunk of metal + bad oil must be the cause of the general disaster I found inside, so you're Right. Kind Regards.

Originally posted by Willy Fisterbottom at Facebook, this Precious 4X140 Rims looks Gorgeous on this Brat, which by the way, has my Taste of Colour More info: ~► http://www.easternwheelworks.com.au/subaru-wheels.htm

I've used it, also the VersaChem Mega Grey Version; Both with Great Results. Kind Regards.

So, Today I Almost finished the Transmission Reassembly. I Hope that Tomorrow I'll start to putting everything back together. Let me share few images of the progress, so far... Kind Regards.

To Disassemble / Reassemble the Transmission is not the hardest part of this, the worse part is Getting there to Remove it from the Car and then putting it back in its place. This is a brief idea of what I did, Prior to Remove the Transmission: ► Lift the whole front end of the Car, and secure it in place, ► Remove the Front Wheels, ► Remove the Calipers and Rotors, ► Remove the Axles... ► Remove the Air Filter Box, ► Remove the Wirings and its Plugs, ► Drain the ATF, ► Remove the Hoses to the Radiator, ► Carefully Secure it, and... ► Remove the Mounts. Among more steps which doesn't need to be detailed here... but all this needs to be done in reverse order after the Transmission is Repaired. Since a picture worth 1,000 words, let me share here a picture of the "KiaStein" with a TransLess Engine Bay:

Thank you for your Kind Words, which are Really Appreciated.

Of course I Do! ... ... in Fact, I Love all your Cars, and everything you've done to Them. Kind Regards.

By the way, there is a Noticeable "Pattern" on the two cylinder Engine's noise, during Idle / Deceleration, that I had not heard since long time ago... Kind Regards.

Awesome! Thank you for Sharing, Kind Regards.