Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Thank you for the Link, much appreciated. You mean you'll change the wirings to thicker gauge ones for the Extra amperage, isn't it? Kind Regards

I Bet it will do, but please Update this thread with the Results. Kind Regards.

150 Amps Alternator! Is that an especial Aftermarket unit? I'll Like to see Pics & Details. Kind Regards.

Yes! Also, how is your ignition timing at the Distributor? It should be around 20º Kind Regards.

So, I had to Remove the Upper Cover for the Timin' belt, to let it "Clean" itself by Centrifugal action, and it Worked well... The Noise went away as the plastic flew away... the Timin' belt has one minor / superficial scratch of two millimeter long on its back, but otherwise looks pretty Healthy, for a Belt which is almost reaching the 100K Miles old... and supposed to be changed earlier. Kind Regards.

However... I have not enough money to buy a Brand New oil pump yet... and something happened today: The car developed a new, strange whining noise after its first startup this morning; I opened the engine bay and after a brief visual inspection, I encounter this: The Upper Cover for the Timing Belt has Cracked, and the piece of Plastic that fell inside, was rubbing against the cover and the Timin' Belt ... ...

Despite that my Wife's "KiaStein" doesn't run with its original 2000 Sephia T8D engine, it has a much newer T8D engine from a 2003 Spectra; I am concerned about a possible Oil Pump Failure...

I've not done the Timing Belt service on the "KiaStein" yet, mainly due to the Lack of enough time, I've been Super Busy nowadays... but also, somehow I was still debating with myself, if I should obtain a New Oil Pump or Not; especially after readin' this Thread: ~► Sephia oil pressure light

I Agree with you, the Tachometer has been working absolutely Flawlessly since then. Kind Regards.

That wooden Roof Rack looks pretty Solid and Well done, so I would consider it as a "Real" one also. Good Job! Kind Regards.

You're Welcome! And scoobiedubie already gave you a good idea. Post photos of the Subaru, if you could. Kind Regards.

Either could be Cheapo, bad quality Belts and / or they did not replace the Tensioners and / or the rotors, and one or more of them stopped spinning as they should; also a belt could have short lifespan if it touches the plastic covers on a bad install, or if the belts have been in contact with chemical. Look for those Tensioners / rotors, and Worn \ Warped plastic parts on the covers. No, it is Not Necessary to remove the engine, nor the Radiator; only the outside belts and fans assembly. However some of us here highly recommend to remove the Plastic Covers from the Timing Belts, not only because they're old and could be warped or crack anytime causing problems, but also not having them on, makes way easier to diagnose and service the belts; my Subaru "BumbleBeast" runs with both belts completely "Naked" since many years ago, and it is used as offroader often. Kind Regards.

Since seems like you don't have too much previous experience on Engines / Carburetors \ Repairs, if you know someone around you with more experience, it could be good idea to ask for an inspection / check on your install, previously to try starting the engine; because a fuel \ Vacuum leak or other kind of problems could be pretty Dangerous... Please take care. Kind Regards.

That is the one I mentioned in the Writeup as the E.G.R. System and is for engine gas recirculation. I had to change the Heads on my "BumbleBeast" long years ago, those are the third gen EA82 Heads and those came from factory with that passage sealed; so the EGR valve at the intake was cap closed for being useless, for years; however, when I did the Weber Swap, I removed that EGR Valve and the closed pipe, because I don't want to have unuseful stuff on the Engine bay, and in that way, the intake looks cleaner. Is it necessary? ... Well, the answer will depend on your area's Laws against pollution and what will be needed to stay in the car in order to pass emmissions; but that EGR design is unhealthy for the EA82, that is the reason why the Subaru Engineers removed it from the third gen Heads. But if you want to keep it and make it work as close as it should, the front of the weber carburetor has two pipes that provides vacuum, the one on the Right side which is Progressive, is intended for the distributor's advance; while the pipe on the Left side, provides vacuum until the engine is at higher RPM's, when the Secondary (high) stage of the carburetor is activated; so it is intended to be hooked at the EGR Valve; you can run a 3/16" vacuum hose from said front-left port on the Weber Carburetor, to the EGR Valve. The rest of the Openings on the Exhaust, shall be Closed, otherwise your engine bay will become Noisy from exhaust... Kind Regards.

Many thanks for sharing here that Photo, I've seen Similar Rims but not exactly those ones. Were those aftermarket ones, made for Subaru / Renault \ Peugeot 4X140 pattern? Maybe is time to Update the Subarus of the 80's Wheels Page... Kind Regards.

You're Welcome. Now is Picture Time!

Good Idea! By the way, my Weberized "BumbleBeast" also is an '85 Wagon. Kind Regards.

Thank You for Sharing it! I Subscribed to your YouTube's Channel, also... Kind Regards.

Do you have a Video of this?

First: Upload 'em to your Facebook, PhotoBucket, ImageShack, etc... Second: Obtain the Photo's URL address from there, Third: open a New Post here and look for the Green icon, located under the and the A. icons on the Post management above, Fourth: Click that green icon, it will open a dialog box on which you should... Fifth: ...Paste that URL Address, and Voilá! ... The Photo will be seen here. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Kind Words. About Photobucket, Please read here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139920-photobucket-sucks-a-rant-about-picture-hosting-woes/page-2 The Problem has been Solved. About the Fresh air / Catalytic issue, those are refered as ASV system on the Writeup, look for it and follow the Directions. Kind Regards.

Finally, let me write that I really wanted to do that to my "BumbleBeast" since many long Years ago (1996) when I managed to Chrome the Valve Cover on my '69 Mercury Coupe, (Click here for Photos) and the local shop which done that, doesn't have what is needed to do that on Aluminium. Kind Regards.

Thank you for the Link, also I agree with you. Here is the Photo I was writing about: Also, here is the Link to the Discussion about it, at Facebook: ~► https://www.facebook.com/shares/view?id=451516751561025

Long years ago, I saved a Photo of a equally Shiny covers on a Blue EA82 engine (Let me Search it, I'll share it here soon) and I asked (also in Facebook) about how they made those covers to shine like that; was it Chrome? ... the answer then was "This is not Chrome, 'cos it won't hold good on Aluminium" and they said it should be some kind of Polishment. So, I was curious about how you get to Chrome yours. Kind Regards.

Yes, I Agree... The Weber at Full Acceleration provides an Awesome Sound to the Car, the Fuel injection quiets the Engine and power is Similar if not equal with a well tuned Weberized engine; I only suggest to go to Fuel injection if the car moves from nearby the sea level to Higher altitutes constantly or frequently, otherwise, in my own humble opinion, I prefer the Weber, not only for the Boxer Rumble, but also for its Simplicity. Kind Regards.