Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Well, this is a Photo taken and sent to me (via Facebook) by Mr. Mariano Markutin, the owner of that Red subaru in need to exchange his Dual Carb intake manifold, for a Single carb one; this photo has the Measurements of his Dual Carb intake:

Choosing from those three, I prefer the Black one. In my own humble opinion, it suits better the overall look of the car. And looks more "Racer" than "Ricer" you know... Kind Regards.

Thank you for sharing those Pictures. When you Wrote 87 GL, I Thought that it was an EA82, Now I see it is a Hatchback, isn't it? Certain japanese cars from the '70's and '80's had vertical mounted oval speakers down under the vents, others had a mid dashboard opening for a single speaker placement, for the AM radios on the very basic models... I'm not saying that those are factory speakers, but maybe the one who did that, took the idea from one of those models... Kind Regards.

I have an Old Photo, from the Times my "BumbleBeast" was White, which is a Perfect Example of That, see: I popped the Hood, 'cos I heard funny noises comin' from the EA82...

I use my "BumbleBeast" 60% as Daily Driver (During week days) and 40% Offroading (on weekends) and I run Coverless for years now without issues. Kind Regards.

Welcome! Those Speakers are a Mod for sure, but... Could you Post Photos of that Speakers' Setup? I'm Curious! Kind Regards.

This Carbureted EJ engine build thread, is full of Useful information and Photos: ~► http://offroadingsubarus.com/forum/index.php?topic=1247.20 Kind Regards.

In case you're Building a Twin Downdraft Weber carbs' Setup on an EJ Subaru Engine... This engine belongs to willy fisterbottom ...You gonna need a pair of this Adaptors, to place one carb over each Head: ~► http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-32-36-DGV-DGEV-ADM-180-HOLLEY-CARBY-ADAPTOR-TO-IDF-CARB-CARBURETTOR-/161641561521

Not only the Ford Escort distributor could work, also the Early Mitsubishi Lancer Distributor, and the one from a Ford Laser / Mazda 323. Check my Post above, it has a Link to a Thread plenty of Photos. Kind Regards.

Looking Awesome Thomas!!! I bet you'll Like the New Handling on the SafariWagon! Kind Regards.

After the Grounding Wires Cleansing & Adding the New one, I drove the "KiaStein" all the past Weekend; at first, the Tachometer's failure disappeared, but suddenly the failure reappeared again, this time the Tachometer's needle drops dead to zero readings for way less time; and comes back to life, reading normally again, Randomly. The problem is less, but still exists. So, I believe that the Culprit of this fail could be located inside the cabin. I'll check the internal wirings and the instrument cluster itself, as soon as Possible, and report back here the results. Kind Regards.

At the Transmission's Grounding Bolt: At the Battery Terminal, notice the two wires: one is Factory, the other is the one I added.

► First: I removed all the Bolts, which were Rusty, and thrown them away, replacing them with brand new inox steel reinforced Bolts. ► Second: Using a Sanding Sponge... ...I cleansed all the Contact Surfaces where those Bolts should be: at the Transmission, the one Next to the Battery at the inner fender side, and the one Hiding under the Relay & Fusible Box. ► Third: I Cleansed all the terminals from all the original ground Wires, using same sanding Sponge. ► Fourth: I obtained a Brand New Ground Wire, this one is Thicker: 4 Ga which comes pre-made with open "eye" terminals at both ends: ► Fifth: I Placed all the Ground Wires as they came from factory, as I described above. ► Sixth: I added the new ground wire, Directly from the Battery's Negative Terminal, to the Transmission's Bolt, together with the Factory one, in order to "Reinforce" the Ground on the Transmission & Engine. ► Seventh: After Tighten all the shiny, brand new Bolts, I Smeared them with Clear Silicone for High temps, also smeared their surroundings, in order to weatherproof the contacts. (Clear Silicone is easy to remove, it comes out almost as one piece, using a knife, in case is needed)

The Ground wiring at the Engine bay, came from Factory as Follows: ► From the Battery's Negative Terminal, to a 8 mm Bolt on the inner fender side, goes a 6 Ga Wire. ► Around twenty inches from said bolt, there is another 8 mm Bolt, Hiding under the Relay & Fusible Box, where is attached the main ground wire for the Engine & transmission; it is another 6 Ga Wire, that goes to another 8 mm Bolt on the transmission, right under the Air Filter Box, next to the TSS. ► There is another ground wire, but much thinner, at the other side, nearby the alternator, it is a 10 Ga wire that goes from a Bolt on the intake Manifold, to a Bolt on he other fender's inner side. Long time ago, I had placed another Ground Wire, directly from the Battery's Negative terminal, to the Engine's Head, but this time I decided to get rid of that, in favor of a much better grounding setup. Let me Explain:

The issue has Not gone totally, but improved a Little. Let me Show you What I've done so far:

This past weekend, I cleansed all the Grounds at the Engine Bay, and installed a New "Extra" Ground Wire.

Dear Josh, I Already Downloaded the File from that server, Thank you so Much, Now I'll find the time to Read it Carefully. Kind Regards.

Oh my God ... That is Awesome! Thank you So much Josh, Your Kind Help is Really Appreciated. Kind Regards.

No, I wish I had it. Kia offers all the Diagrams and Repair Books for free at their "Kia Tech Info" Website, but it is IP sensitive and only works for people accesing that site from USA; so since I am in Honduras, I could not access the site: ~► https://www.kiatechinfo.com/ So I always have to guess how things are done, to fix them. What I'm doing, is tracking all the possible causes, starting from the Outside of the cabin (Engine Bay, Wirings, Sensors, Grounds) and the Last step will be on the Inside of the Cabin. (internal wirings, grounds, instrument cluster itself.) That is the usual way I solve all the problems, from the macro to the micro. So, my next step will be to add the extra ground wire, to the transmission; I'll report back the results, here. Kind Regards.

Nice Find! ... the Automatic Brats extremely Rare in LADM. (Latin American Domestic Market) All the -Few- Automatic Brats, were imported from USA. Keep this thread updated with the Results on Fixing the non-running issue. Kind Regards.

Nice Idea! We all have some sort of Craziness, Subaru Craziness, you know ... ... Kind Regards.

SEEC-T ~► http://subaru-philosophy.com/post/36197498447/seec-t-has-been-proven-to-be-a-winner

Not Exactly EGR, because EGR recirculates the Engine's Gasses. It is more like the A.S.V. = "Air Suction Valve" In example. the Purpose of the A.S.V. system on the EA82's, is to put some fresh air onto the Exhaust system, to aid to the Catalytic Converter to work as it Should; the two Small Black Boxes on it (one per side of the Engine), are intended for Noise reduction.

Those are Looking Good, Thomas! ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ I Hope you could fit the Tempo ones, easily. You are doing an Awesome Job with the SafariWagon! Keep us Updated. Kind Regards.