Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Welcome! That Subaru Impreza Coupe looks Awesome! What happened to it?

Despite that I already Cleansed the Ground wire connections, I will add a third (extra) Ground Wire (as explained above) to the Transmission, this weekend; in order to be isolating all the possible causes, one by one, 'till I find the Culprit. Kind Regards.

Despite that I already cleansed the Ground wire's connections, and changed the old bolt with a new one, the random fail continued; so maybe the instrument cluster could be the problem. But the Whole instrument cluster is newer than the Car, I changed it Years ago in order to obtain a Tachometer (The original instrument cluster didn't had it) which is very important for me. You could read about the instrument cluster Swap, either in previous posts of this mere thread, or on this other one: ~► http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-1998-2001-sephia/84797-instrument-cluster-swap-tachometer.html The newer instrument cluster worked completely Flawlessly for Years; So I believe that the issue could be caused by Electrical False contact on the wirings related to the Tachometer. "Electrical False Contact" = Means when a Fuse or Bridge wire is proven to be good / alright (Passing current from one of its sides to the other) but its ends / terminals are loose and \ or have enough corrosion to don't let the current to flow as it should, flowing intermittently or not flowing at all. Kind Regards.

Since the car is Shifting smoothly and has not developed any kind of fail, other than the Tachometer randomly working / non working, I bet that the old sensor was good. Car's Tachometers may be like a Voltage reading device, or may have a servo motor that receives pulses from a sensor; since the TSS is named: "Pulse Generator" by Kia, as you can read in its Box, pictured above, I believe it is not designed as an analog DC volt meter, I believe it reads the Pulses. So, I am checking all the posibilities, one by One, until I find the Culprit. I've done this so far: . Cleansing the Wires, Plugs & electrical connections: Done! Changing the TSS with a Brand new unit: DONE! Cleansing the Ground wire connections: DONE!

Long years ago, I noticed that the Second Gen Sephia, only has one thick wire coming from the Battery's Negative (Ground) Terminal, directly to the Car's Body. I thought it was weak grounding which becomes weaker as car ages, and I decided to place a second negative wire, directly from said terminal, to the engine. The car has been running Flawlessly like that. Now, I'm thinkin' of installing a Third Negative wire, this time from said terminal, to the Automatic Transmission's body, specifically to the same bolt where an incoming ground wire comes from the Body...

I installed it Yesterday, with no avail... The issue continues being the same.

So, I decided to buy a new TSS from the Local Kia Dealer: It looks a little "Different" from the older one:

I removed all the plugs from the wiring at the engine bay, and carefully cleansed them, using electrical contacts cleaner in spray, then allowed to dry and re-plugged everything back together... Everything looked good. Nothing Changed.

Weird Tachometer Behaviour under analysis: I drove the "KiaStein" this past weekend, for a 200 Miles round trip, I wanted to see by myself the Tachometer's Behaviour; and what I've found is: ► Sometimes when the Engine is Started, the Tachometer Works, and Sometimes when engine is Started it doesn't work. This seems to be Randomly happening. ► If the Tachometer works when the Engine is Started, it remains working Flawlessly all the Trip, untill you shut down the Engine, or: ► If the Tachometer works when the engine is Started, it stops working immediately, droppin' the needle to zero; if I switch On, a high power consumption device, such like the Headlamps and / or the Air Conditioner; and the Tachometer returns to Work normally a second after I shut those devices Off, and I accelerate the Engine. So I bet that the "Random" fail must have something to do with the (in)famous weak wiring / weak Grounding on these Second Gen Sephias. I'll investigate further and try to clean the Ground connections around the Fuse & Relay Box, and the ECU, to see if that solves the problem. Beside that Tachometer needle dying and coming to life randomly, the whole car is working Flawlessly and does not developed any other problem, nor shifting related problems so far...

Slowly I am collecting all the needed parts, one by one, to do a Complete Timing Belt Job. Meanwhile the "KiaStein" has developed a new problem; it is nothing big but pretty annoying: the Tachometer started to quit working, sending the gauge to zero readings, Randomly.

Seems like this is the List of Parts that I'll need to Collect, prior to do the Timin' Belt Service on the "KiaStein": ► Part Nº: 24312 2Y000 = Timing Belt. ► Part Nº: 24450 2Y000 = Tensioner. ► Part Nº: 24810 2X700 = Idler. ► Part Nº: 0K013 10602 = Camshaft Seals. (Two Needed) ► Part Nº: 0B3C7 10602B = Crankshaft Seal. ► Part Nº: 21310 2Y011 = Oil Pump. Kind Regards.

Thank you Josh for your kind suggestions. I researched more about the Oil Pump on the T8D engines, and seems like no one has changed them so far... so maybe I will follow the ancient chinese saying: "Don't Fix what is not Broken" and don't change the oil pump at all.

Yes, more advanced timing gives more peppier acceleration... But there is a Limit to be Safe. In my case, I tried 22º but the Lower octane fuels on Honduras, made the Valves Noisy when accelerated from Low RPM's / Slow Driving. What are the Octane Values on Propane? Kind Regards.

Yes, it is a Sentra front end; but the one that fits almost perfectly, is the same era's Nissan Maxima. I've seen those "conversions" in Honduras too... due to the severe Lack of Spare parts. Honduras is at the Third World also, But I Preffer the Honduran Version: Taken from this Thread: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87725-an-open-request-to-loyale-27-turbo/page-3?do=findComment&comment=951708 Kind Regards.

I believe it worth Try 20º And MPFi setup on EA82's in USDM is Rare / Scarce, (1985 / 86 mainly) They got SPFi more commonly. And SPFi is intended to be set at 20º Kind Regards.

Dear Jono, My 1985 EA82 "BumbleBeast" was designed to be set at 8º (+/- 2º) according to the under-the-hood sticker; However, since I installed a Weber Carb on it, it runs Flawlessly with ignition timing set at 20º like the EFi EA82's are designed to be set. So, since your EA82 is somehow, an "Hybrid" Motor, done with parts from the Carb and EFi setups, and runs on Propane, I believe it should work good at 20º, but it could need many trial and error tests before you're completely satisfied. Kind Regards.

I've used many different Coolants with Different Colours all long these years, and in my own humble opinion, the only one that provides a noticeable but slightly "Lower Temps" Results in overheating cars, is the Blue; Shellzone Blue. ~► http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1844910 Kind Regards.

Overview: If your stock carbureted Subaru EA engine feels Gutless, slower than it used to be, and some times, it overreacts during acceleration and sounds louder while your subie runs like a bat out of hell, and the Hitachi Carburetor has a Vacuum Operated Secondary (high) Stage; I Bet that the Vacuum actuator that activates it, is failing. Even with non failing vacuum activated secondaries; I've made Mechanical Conversions on those carburetors, always with Great Results. The Difference between the Vacuum operated and the Mechanically operated Secondaries (high) Stages, lies in the Moment for Reaction, and how the engine reacts to your acceleration behaviour; let me explain: In the vacuum operated carbs, the Secondary (high) Stage which gives the "Power", will work depending on the engine's vacuum; which depends on RPMs, and thus means that it will work accelerating indirectly; while on the Mechanically operated carbs, the "Power" is always there, to react at your very will, each time you press the Gas Pedal, and thus means that the acceleration is Directly. The mechanically activated secondary (High) stage on the Weber carburators and its Robust, pure smart simplicity, are the main factors why a Weber Carb is super desirable on the Carburated EA engines; it also helps you to get rid of tons of unuseful things from the crowded engine bay... on those states in USA with not too restrictive laws, regarding pollution control. But if you can't afford a Weber carb, or don't want to do ~► the Weber Carb Swap Job, then a Mechanical Conversion on your Hitachi Carb will help your ride to be more reactive to your accelerating behaviour. There is absolutely No Downsides with such Mechanical Conversion on the Carburator, if it is Done properly. How to do the Mechanical Conversion: Prior to explain that, I must say this: If you really don't understand and don't have too much mechanical experience, then I kindly suggest you to Ask to a Qualified Mechanic with Knowledge / Experience in Carburetors, to do that Mechanical Conversion for you, instead of trying it by yourself; because to instal a badly assembled / damaged carb, could be pretty Dangerous in many different ways, so Be Careful! (Disclaimer: Use all the info I post, at your own Risk) Basically talking, the Mechanical conversion is done at follows: ► Remove the Vacuum actuator attached to the secondary (High) Stage, along all its hardware, ► close any open threads with screws; ► then attach a piece of hard, inox wire, firmly secured to the mechanism that opens the primary (low) stage Butterfly, which is directly connected to the accelerator plate, (in the other side) where the accelerator cable goes. ► Then, Twist that wire giving to it the shape of a Hook or a curved finger that wanna pull something, in order to let the primary (low) stage butterfly, to touch and move the mechanism that moves the Secondary (High) stage Butterfly, just after the primary (low) has been moved and it reached around its Half (50%) opening. You must "Calibrate" that movement on the Secondary (High) stage, by twisting the Wire, in order to achieve Full Opening of Both Butterflies when the Accelerator Plate is at fully acceleration (Maximum) which equals to the Gas Pedal being floored, and also the Secondary (High) Stage butterfly shall remain completely closed, during the first half movement from the primary (low) stage butterfly. Let me Show you a Short Video that Demonstrates how it Works: Here is an easy Repair guide for those Hitachi Carburetors, plenty of pictures (Not mine, Found it online) Download it here: ~► Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetors Visual Repair Guide If you find useful information here, let me Know by hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.

Nice Subaru Coupé! The Numbers you have, are Limited to USDM / SOA information. Those coupes were sold in Asia, Latin America, etc... mainly with the EA71 (1.6L) engine, and some with the EA65 (1.3L) Engine. The 1.8L (EA82) were known as GTi, as you can see, ~► HERE. Also those coupes were built in Waitara, New Zealand, sold as Subaru Omega. Here, a Couple of Threads with Pics, of ... EA65 Coupe: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75938 EA71 Coupe: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50229 Kind Regards.

Dear Jono, do you have Photos of your EA82 Brumby, to share here? Kind Regards.

Yep! ... Look Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130116-introducing-the-subercoupe-now-with-50-more-cyl%E2%80%99s-and-100-more-rwd/ Kind Regards.

I had that idea too, around year 2000... and thus explains my Screen Name. Even I obtained the EA82T Pistons to do that, but I had severe overheating issues with my ER27, and after a huge frontal crash which cracked the block, now it became a Dead project. However, I saw other people's efforts doing similar projects, here: ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/Pumped.htm ~► http://subaruxt.com/old/under_pressure.htm Kind Regards.

Great! ... but ... Where are the Photos? Kind Regards.

I Like the Pencil and Zip Tie idea also; but is sad to know that the PandaWagon is Overheatin' ... Have you checked for clogged Radiator and / or Stuck Thermostat? That is an Awesome Cleansing Job! Kind Regards.

I believe that you must pour fresh oil while the engine is turned off only... Somehow it is normal to have certain blown air coming out via the filler tube, once it is open; But if there is a great amount of pressure, maybe the PCV system isn't correctly routed and / or non working. Kind Regards.