Loyale 2.7 Turbo

OK I thought it was pretty obvious...

Nice! ... ... This thread deserves a Photo of the entire Subie. Kind Regards.

To Lubricate the Mechanism, I use two spray cans with different lubrication: one is premium penetrating & lube oil, the other is white lithium grease. First I use the penetrating oil to dissolve dirt which ussualy turns into mud with years and dust there... After cleansing with a cloth, I use the white lithium grease to leave a lubricating layer. Easy cleansing method for the switch, consists in remove the power windows' switch from the car, then having it horizontally, you press with a finger one side while spray inside the other side, the electronic contacts' cleaner; then repeat with the other side; finally you flip the switch and shake it violently, repeat two or three times so the cleaner gets to the dirty contacts inside and remove the crud... That method requires that you wear safety gogles to avoid spray in your eyes... however nothing beats disassembling the switch to get inside and deeply clean its internals. I hope this helps you. Kind Regards.

Welcome! Could you share photos of those cars? ... Sounds Cool! Regarding the issues, What wisdom are you Lookin' for? Kind Regards.

Lubricate properly the Windows' Mechanism, plus use electronic contacts' Cleaner spray on the switches. Kind Regards.

I bet this Writeup will be useful info for you: ~► https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Yes, you'll need the relay's Socket as well. May I ask, regarding your user name: Do you own a Mercury Comet? Sorry for the offtopicness... Kind Regards.

I bet you can find Useful information, in this Writeup: ~► https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Kind Regards.

Someone asked me This, in another Forum: No, it isn't due to boredom at all... ...in fact, this thread is a Binnacle to keep up with our "KiaStein" history; if you take a look, you'll see that this thread has kept updated for more than a decade so far. I've been posting, sharing my inventions, creations, adaptations, modifications, retrofittings, repairs, etc... online since 1999 also in some other web forums; the reason is to share ideas for all the people who might benefit from them. Like me, there are many persons who also contributes with helpful ideas online, which had helped us a lot, so I wanted to do my part, because in order to find useful information, someone have to share it... Finally there is another reason: This binnacle saves time, because if you want to find the proper part number for a repair, you'll find it written here, along with detailed photos of all the procedures. I alredy received e-mails, private messages and posts with thanks from people that, after digging online, found the answer to their mechanical problems, on my threads, on different web forums... even on web pages. That exactly is all I want, a simple thank. I don't want to sound arrogant, but here is an example:https://jalopnik.com/this-honduran-subaru-nut-writes-awesome-how-to-manuals-429795764 Greetings from Honduras, Kind Regards.

Image scanned from the sales brochure of a first gen Kia Sephia, from a Dealer in USA. https://imgur.com/gallery/B3FF7wK

Many plugs are experiencing this Plastic Crumbling on these Kias

The web link to www.miataone.com is a dead end, says: "This domain is pending renewal or has expired" Do you have more Photos to share?

Welcome! I kindly suggest you to start your own Thread, and include some Photos of your 2020 impreza on it Greetings.

Even Better, Cap close it. Kind Regards.

I agree, the best bet is to source a Distributor for the Carbureted version of the EA82 engine, nothing else. As the member LoyalLion wrote: He is new to this, so I'll share here some basic information that might help him: The Carbureted EA82 engines coupled from factory to 2WD transmissions, came with Nippon-Denso distributors. While the Carbureted EA82 engines, coupled from factory to 4WD transmissions, came with Hitachi distributors... Nippon-Denso units have a faster advance curve than the Hitachi counterparts, Also, Nippon-Densos allows you to use an aftermarket ignition coil with average resistance values; while the Hitachis requires their own ignition coil, because going too low or too high in resistance values on the coil, gets a burnt ignition module, faster. Ignition module is what the distributor has inside, instead on points. Furthermore: Nippon-Denso units are reliable and simplistic, easy to service distributors, they uses an easy clip-on by hand cap and the rotor goes pushed down also by hand only; while the Hitachi counterparts has lousy screws, specially the infamous rotor screw which is the culprit of many horror stories of people being left stranded in the midle of nowhere by a loose rotor screw. I preffer Nippon-Densos any day, in my own humble opinion, they're way far better for many reasons. I hope this Helps; Kind Regards.

So, I took advantage of a discount coupon at RockAuto and bought all the sensors I could, at once ...

So, the problems with the Fuel Pump and the non-functional low fuel warning light, were solved by changing the old one with the new fuel pump assembly; thanks to God. In another Subject; as I wrote some posts ago, the plastic from the wiring terminals in this Sephia, are crumbling away, making connection problems in some sensors; the most recent fail was the terminal for the Knock Sensor, which crumbled away, letting the wiring to hang down disconnected... So, part of the Box pictured some posts above, was a set of brand new Sensors, which came along the new fuel pump assembly, from RockAuto, including a new Knock Sensor:

Something pretty interesting, regarding the new fuel Pump assembly swap, is that, somehow the Low Fuel warning light, at the instrument cluster, came back again to function; because I've lost that warning light function when I did the instrument cluster Swap, years ago... I did that cluster swap then, (without the need of changing anything on the wiring nor plugs), to gain Tachometer which the original cluster didn't have; and the only thing lost then, was the warning light for the low fuel. Since such warning light came back to life Flawlessly with the new Fuel Pump Assembly, I believe that the wiring is different between the fuel pump assembly for the basic model and the fuel pump assembly for the luxury model... somehow.

Thank You!

Thank you so much, my Friend! I don't know how to embed videos here, in this Forum, yet. https://i.imgur.com/t9RFYjq.mp4 Here you can see how free is the movement of the sensor arm. Kind Regards.

Here is a helping friend, holding the piece for the Photo

But, the brand new fuel pump assembly, required an Adjustment for the Float Lever sensor, in order to fuction properly, because it came from factory way too tight somehow; so I disassembled that lever sensor to check if it was alright and reasembled everything back, letting the lever arm to move freely as it should.

So, I ordered a set of new parts from RockAuto, which includes a brand new Fuel Pump assembly...

Oh my God!!! Could you immagine surviving a fire inside the gasoline tank? This is the Worse fail I've seen in a car in all my Life, due to the extremly high risk for the life... I can't explain how we survived, but I consider it the Help of God.

I checked the Fuel Pump Assembly without noticing anything Wrong at a glance. But then, after disassembly it... I looked Carefully and Found the Culprit of the Burnt wiring Smell